Question about 1999 BMW 323 Series

1 Answer

BMW 320 D

Ho to remove/fit flexible joint at front end of exhaust system

Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 9 Answers

Most exhaus specialists are able to cut that part out and weld in a new flexible joint at a fraction of the dealers price

Posted on Nov 06, 2008


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Hyundai 2004 2.7 l ratting noise coming from undrneath

have the front end checked for broken suspension arm bushes , stabilizer bar joints and bushes
broken exhaust flexible section
check for exhaust loose , cat converter failure or rocks under the heat shields of the exhaust

Jun 26, 2017 | Hyundai Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cv boot inboard boot

the reason for this is that the oem boot is not at all simple to replace, the whole cv shaft would have to be removed. the universal boot is thin and flexible to try to accomodate many variations of joints without having to remove the whole shaft. only suggestion I could make would be if your going to go thru the trouble to pull the whole shaft would be to totally replace the whole shaft. seriously its not a 30 min job, your looking at probably 3 to 4 hrs or more and thats if you have all the correct tools readily accessible. they don't come out easy, and rarely go back in easy.

Sep 09, 2012 | 2000 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

What work is done for a 100,000 scheduled service, 2001 330ic bmw

-Replace oxygen sensor -Change ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) -Change oil -Replace Differential oil -A road test to check brakes, handling etc -Check transmission for leaks -Check axles for leaks -Check for leaks at the half shaft ( the flexible boot) -Visual of fuel tank, lines, and connectors for leaks -Examine exhaust visually -Check power steering. Check fluid levels add if needed -Check brakes, measure pad thickness and record, clean contact points, and lube wheel centering hubs -Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc -Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary -Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty -Read out diagnostic system -Check engine cooling system, hoses and connectors for leaks -Check air conditioner operation -Replace microfilters -Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required -Check lighting system all lights right down to the one in the glove box -Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination -Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions. -Check condition and function of safety belts. -Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys. -Check central locking/double lock. -Check operation of all latches -Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger -Visually examine air bag system check for torn covers, obvious damage, decals or decorations being placed on covers -Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link -Replace intake air cleaner element

There you go I think that pretty much covers it hope this helps

Jan 07, 2011 | BMW 330 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

89 chev s10 how to replace front axles

prev.gif next.gif Halfshafts (Drive Axle) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A torn CV-boot requires removal of the driveshaft for overhaul 85387081.jpg
Fig. 2: On most vehicles. the caliper should be removed and supported out of the way 85387082.jpg
Fig. 3: Also on most vehicles, the tie rod end should be separated from the steering knuckle 85387083.jpg
Fig. 4: Once the lower shock fasteners are removed it may be compressed and wired up out of the way 85387084.jpg
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the flange bolts 85387085.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove the cotter pin and retainer so the axle nut may be loosened 85387086.jpg
Fig. 7: A prybar may be used across to of the lug nuts in order to keep the hub from turning while loosening the nut 85387087.jpg
Fig. 8: Use a suitable axle shaft removal tool to drive the shaft from the hub 85387088.jpg
Fig. 9: If a driver tool is not available, thread the nut just flush with the shaft end and tab gently with a rubber or brass mallet 85387089.jpg
Fig. 10: During assembly, hold the hub from turning and torque the axle nut to specification 85387090.jpg
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Identification The front axle assembly used on most 4wd models covered by this manual utilizes a central disconnect type front axle/transfer case system which allows shifting in and out of 4wd when the vehicle is moving under most driving conditions. The axle has an aluminum carrier which includes a vacuum activated center lock feature. The axle on the MFI-Turbo is designed for full-time four wheel drive and therefore is not equipped with a disengagement feature. With this one exception, the MFI-Turbo and standard 4wd front axle assemblies are very similar. The drive axles employ completely flexible assemblies which consist of inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joints connected by an axle shaft. The inner CV joint is a "tri-pot'' design, which is completely flexible and can move in and out. The outer CV joint is a "Rzeppa'' design which is also flexible but cannot move in or out. NOTE: For more information on front axle identification, please refer to Section 1 of this manual. prev.gif next.gif

Jul 21, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

Left front passenger side cv joint for 1990 quattro has noise, is it easy to fix

Can be a messy job. Is the flexible rubber boot over surrounding the joint split and spewing forth oily muck. Remove wheel cover and bearing oil cap in the middle. slacken the wheel bearing nut a turn or so. Jack the car until the wheel is off the ground and remove the wheel. Remove the bearing nut and push (tap with wooden block the drive shaft inwards to disconnect it from the hub. Try turning the steering wheel if the shaft does not go back all the way to allow the stub to be released. You may have to undo the track rod end to give you extra clearance. Remove the split boot (gaiter) and wash the bearing clean of all oil and dirt with petrol so that you can inspect it thoroughly. The stub axle should also come free of the tripod ended drive shaft. If the metal shows bad signs of wear you will need to replace the bearing assembly. Repair kits for the replacement of boots contain packs of appropriate grease. To get the boot on easily you will need to have access to a boot cone tool. The wide end fits over the joint with the narrow end away from it. Lube the end of the narrow end of the boot and slip it over the narrow end of the cone. By forcing it along the cone the narrow end spreads wide enough to clear the joint and sit back down on the drive shaft. Fill the joint with new grease and seal the boot ends with a crimping tool. Wear neoprene gloves at all times as this is one filthy job

Jun 24, 2010 | 1990 Audi V8 Quattro

2 Answers

Is there any grease fittings on the front and rear

There should be some on the front end steering linkage, and some on the drive shaft front and rear, there is none on the rear end.

Jun 10, 2010 | 1993 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

How do i fix the brakeline on my 1994 honda accord with a v4 engine?

The brake line will run from the back of the wheel backing plate to a connection point further toward the front or center of the car (where it connects, along with the other brake line) to a fitting. The line can be removed and replaced. Patching it would be a waste of time because a brake line, when the brake pedal is pressed, undergoes a great deal of hydraulic pressure. The lines are specially made to withstand that pressure. If you were to undertake the job yourself, you should take into account that it can be a pretty dirty job since brake fluid is going to be flowing from the fittings once you disconnect them (you should be prepared to plug them so you don’t lose all your fluid) and the fittings are often difficult to turn with a wrench The following is the procedure, but I would seriously consider finding a local garage for an estimate for the work.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Elevate and safely support that side of the car.
Remove the wheel so it is easier to access the backing plate.
Clean the joint where the brake line connects to the back of the plate.
Place a pan under the joint to be disconnected.
Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting) disconnect the line to be replaced.
Disconnect the other end of the line, moving the drain pan as necessary.
Disconnect and retaining clips or brackets that may be holding the line and remove the line.
If you are going to have the system open for more time than it takes to swap lines, plug the line coming from the main cylinder (toward the front of the car).
Install the new line, assuring yourself that both ends are correctly threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure as you start them (consider that some lines are flexible hoses with fittings on the ends and others are solid pipe that has to be gently bent into the proper configuration).
Using the two wrenches, tighten each fitting to 9-12 lbs, which you can estimate. Good and tight.
Reinstall the clips or brackets you may have removed.
Refill the brake reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid.
BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM.(that means all four brakes at the wheel bleeders, which can be a job in itself)
Replace the wheel, reattach the neg. cable, etc.
I hope this helps you.

Oct 19, 2009 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Lube Job

If you have 5/16 plugs in the front end parts you can replace them with standard zirk fittings and lube them...many do not and the only way to service them is when they fail, new parts will have a provision for a fitting.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1993 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

50,000 mile service

48,000 miles or 48 months
Maintenance Service Schedule 2007 dodge
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Rotate tires
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500 / 3500, 4X4 & Powewagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses and brake linings
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components
Check spare tire for proper pressure & correct
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 4X4

51,000 miles or 51 months
Maintenance Service Schedule
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500/3500, 4X4 & Powerwagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components

Jan 04, 2009 | 2007 Dodge Ram Truck

Not finding what you are looking for?
1999 BMW 323 Series Logo

Related Topics:

123 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top BMW Experts

Anthony Jones
Anthony Jones

Level 2 Expert

128 Answers

Frankie B

Level 2 Expert

65 Answers


Level 2 Expert

254 Answers

Are you a BMW Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides