Question about 1986 Chrysler New Yorker

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1986 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2 L M.P.F.I Turbo Diagnostic Drivibility Problems

I have a 1986 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2L M.P.F.I Turbo with 20,000 on a freshly rebuilt engine I rebuilt and I have done a lot of diagnostics on this vehicle and haven't figured out this puzzling problem yet. I get no codes at all. The car will start and run for a short time then stumble and die. I can start it back up and it will keep doing this over and over. It will sputter and die also on high acceleration so I know it's not the EGR Valve. I replaced the Logic and Power Module, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs and Wires. The timing is erratic on it and has always been like that since the car was bought 15 years ago but ran fine until this problem occured two years after I put 20,000 miles on the rebuilt engine. The Timing Belt is new, the cog gear settings are set per factory specs. There are no vacuum leaks or electrical wiring that has broken circuits. The compression is 135lbs on all four cylinders give or take a few lbs. I have checked the Hall Effect Module and that's good. I have checked the coil and that's good. One thing I have not done is replace the MAP sensor and here is the question. I disconnected the Map sensor electrical connector and the car started up and ran but the same problem was still there with it stumbling, and dying. I read that if you disconnect the MAP sensor connector and the car starts up and runs that the MAP is bad. Is that true. My MAP sensor connects into the Logic module on this car. Is there something else I may have over looked to why I am having this problem of it starting up and running rough then dying? Also at times it wants to crank over like the timing is way off when I am trying start it and other times it cranks over smoothly. The spark plugs all have a black soot on all four evenly so that tells me I have a rich condition. The starter is good and so is the battery so there is no problem there either. I am really puzzled about this and hope I can find someone that hly before. It's a quirky problem to try and diagnose.

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Sounds to me like the mass air flow sensor is dirty. There is a special spray that you can use to clean that sensor. You can buy that at any auto parts store to clean it. The sensor is a bunch of fine wires. If any dirt gets in there it can affect how the car idles and drives. The Mass Air Flow Sensor should be located on the air cleaner assembly somewhere and probably has T-120 tamper proof safety screws on it. You can buy the safety screw bits for 5 bucks at Autozone to remove the sensor. Hope this information helps you. P.S. If the mass air flow sensor is dirt or bad it will affect other sensors like the map sensor and other stuff and possibly thow codes that dont pretain to the prob your having. Good Luck :) Draz

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

All I can say is check your fuel system. Things like the filter, collapsed lines and the such. Also check pressure on fuel pump. What you describe sounds too much like fuel system problem.

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Stumbles/cuts out,on acceleration

We had the same problem with our Blazer, and after thousands of dollars and multiple shops returning it to us.....It was the fuel lines on top of the motor. one of them had a small crack in it. Vortec is FAMOUS for it. scence then I ll buy other peoples head aches and sell them. wish I would have known sooner

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

  • 625 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 buick regal 3.8L- Backfires, stumbles on acceleration

most likelly it is your fuel pump is not puting godd fuel pressure
have the fuel pressure test and if it is low have the fuel pump and filter replaced

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: Stumbles and backfires on acceleration

Check the distributor shaft. They have a history of developing finite cracks that causes the condition your describing. Let me know if I can help you with any other info.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 Lincoln Navigator stumbles/bucking under mild acceleration

I have a 2003 Nav with the exact same problem. I've found it diminishes when taken out of overdrive. Also it's intermittent but more towards bucking. Sorry to post this under solutions.

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: The idle has an intermittant stumble

Your Idle Air Control (IAC) valve may be dirty with carbon, simple fix with throttle body cleaner through the IAC passageway through the throttle body. Make sure it's throttle body cleaner and not carburetor cleaner, the carb cleaner is to corrosive to the gaskets used on the throttle body.
If cleaning the IAC does not help, then it's a good chance that the IAC is to far gone and will need to be replaced.
Good luck and thank you for using fixya

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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Fig. 1: Diagnostic trouble codes and descriptions - all vehicles 86724080.gif
Fig. 2: Diagnostic trouble codes and descriptions - all vehicles 86724081.gif

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