I changed the spark plugs and wires then the engine started trying to stall after it warmed up. so i tryed to adjust the throtle now im getting p0171 and p0174 code any ideas

SO WHEN ENGINE STALLS DO HIGH LAMPS DIM OR GO DEAD?
TOO>?
Can you stop or delay the stall with a fast right foot action?
the time to diagnose it as at the stall.
not after the few minutes, later, you can not fix later as it is not broken yet.
can be caused by 50 things
but on macro mode.
bad engine
bad spark
bad fueling ,be it too little or too much.
when parked and dead does WOT cranking make it start and run/
wot= wide open throttle.
or dead engine crank it with 5% (a tad) throttle) start now, when dead./?
running 27 year old spark, plugs, wire sets ,distrib cap and rotor?
OLD PLUGS NEED NOT BE HERE, AND NEW GAPPED CORRECTLY
TRY NKG PLUGS,OEM SPEC TYPE.

LEARN HOW TO THE THE ECU CEL LAMP FLASH (BLINK CODES)
AT ENGINE DEAD?
PER SERVICE MANUAL WAY (JUMPER WIRE TO DLC)

It may be gas or ignition related. Try to determine which, when it stalls and won't start. With key on, you should hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and fuel rail on the engine. If you don't hear the pump, and have no pressure in the fuel rail with key on, it is probably a bad pump.
If the pump is working, check for a strong blue spark on a spark plug wire after it stalls. If no spark on any of the plug wires, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the ignition control module. Either one can cause those symptoms- failing after it gets warm or hot.

Sounds like a vacuum leak

Compression, spark , timing , fuel for any engine to run. Don't forget a stopped up catalytic convertor will have the same effect as you described. Backfiring of course is fouled plugs, bad plug wires, look for arcing from wires when it is dark outside. If it has a distributor check for cracked cap, had my 91 GMC start backfiring then die due to ignition module inside distributor going bad. It would start back up after it cooled for about 10 minutes.

how cold is it out side

after i replaced the battery in my 2003 350z, it would stall immediatly after i cranked it on unless i gave it a little gas. I fixed this by cleaning the MAF and throtle body valve. Total supply costs were $15 and took about 20 minutes. My Z is not only fixed but runs smoother and cleaner.

Was the TPS adjusted to 1.5 volts or checked for that voltage reading beforehand?

ok, this is simple to do but I would get the Chilton for your car so you can have pictures of what to do. You can get the chilton at the parts store, or the library. It sounds like a throtle body sensor or the throtle body itself, but could also be your air idle control sensor. go down and buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner and a BIG can of carb cleaner. First clean the mass air flow sensor neer the air filter. then remove the throtle body it is held in by 4 botls and you may need a new gasket, NO GASKET GLUE. Now take that big old can of carb cleaner and start cleaning in and out. also down into manifold. clean everything. Now put it back together, remember 4 bolts and no gasket glue. if the problem continues replace the throtle body sensor. and then the idle air intake. It will be cheaper to take it into the part store and have them put it on the computer. They can often tell you what sensor it is ahead of all this but don't let this stop you from cleaning out the throtle body, it will make your car run better and longer.

tepfy

Is the MIL light on on the dash?

possible bad fuel pump