Question about Ford F-350

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I have 97 chinok motorhome on e350 chasis. have replaced all 4ball joints, new shocks,front end inspected,new steering stabilizer,new tires but still hve a wander in steering. would any one have any ideas? HELP

Posted by Anonymous on

  • mdcliff Mar 17, 2011

    Given that you've had so many different things either replaced or checked out, I have only one other thought.

    Have you added any significant amount of weight toward the rear (especially behind the rear axle)

    Added weight on the rear will reduce the weight the front tires place on the pavement. It might not be too noticeable at low speed, but if you happen to be driving on a highly crowned road, you could experience some "wandering"

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  • Ford Master
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Hello, You could have loose tie-rod ends or too much play in the steering gearbox. Sometimes in the steering pump you have pressure relief valving which is basically a spring which allows pressure to bypass the main pump body.

For the tie-rod ends, your Mechanic should check them for the front-end Inspection. The steering box is another matter. The proper way to adjust the steering box is to adjust the thrust bolt on top of the gearbox to press down on the internal gears until there is less than 1/2 inch of free-play in the steering wheel. Some Manufacturers want the front wheels off the ground, others want the wheels on the Alignment plates that revolve with the weight of the vehicle on the plates. You loosen the retaining parts on the steering box thrust bolt and tighten it down until the slack is taken out of the steering wheel. Then re-tighten the retaining parts. Allow some slack so the gears are not smashed.

You also have a joint in the steering rod. It can have a fiber coupler or be similar to a U-joint. You would need to hold the steering box side of this joint stationary while turning the steering wheel off center to check for play in the steering column. This connection point could have slack in it.

Finally, front end alignment. Your RV needs alignment like a car. Sometimes you need to go to a Dealer to get equipment supersized for an RV. There are plenty of Box trucks and Tractor trailers that need the same service. You may have to go to a place that is not pretty, but made to keep big working trucks on the road. If Chinook is still in businees, call them for references in your area and ask them for the Specs for your Alighment.

I hope my solutions are very helpful in solving your problem.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

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  • Ford Master
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You said that you had the front end inspected so I assume that all 4 tie rod ends are good and the front end was aligned. Changing parts without re-alignment can create a wandering condition.If that is the case then your problem could be play in the steering box, which should have some adjustment. You should also check the bushings in your control arms. They are rubber and will deteriorate over time, creating excessive play in the front end. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

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Why is my front driver side tire wobble when i hit a bump


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If the steering is getting a little hard to turn at low speeds, this would indicate a loss of Power Steering, and the steering is reverting to "Non-Power" steering, just like the days of the Ford Model T or Model A. Loss of power steering is usually caused by low level of PSF (Power Steering Fluid).
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The Five Hundred also has rear shock absorbers with springs - check for leaks/breakage/weakness here too.

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1 Inspect Rack & Pinion - Center Wear From Internal Fluid Leaking Around The Rack Piston.
2 Inspect Steering Stabilizer Bracket - Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
3 Inspect Front Lower Control Arm - Front Lower Control Arm loose/missing bolt(s)
4 Inspect Front Lower Ball Joints - Front Lower Ball Joint(s) Worn/Loose
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1 Inspect Rear Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
2 Inspect Front Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
3 Inspect Coil Spring - Incorrect Coil Spring Selection or Installation.
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There is a squeek in the front end, Just put new brakes in but it still squeeks. Could this be a CV joint or a Bearing? The noise is present with or without the brake s applied. There is no vibration and...


worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning.
worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound.
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you NEED to have a fornt end alignment done, and replace the fron shocks while you do it.

I've had this experience and it can rattle your bones as well as your car.

Have it done ASAP, your safety, as well as other drivers depends on what you do, and when you do it.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for letting FixYa.com...fix ya


Terry

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I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

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