Blowinging cold air most of the time ,will blow hot off and on.tempature gauge goes up very quick on cold start.gurgling sound coming from over flow,behind glove box.

Sounds about right, but you only have one actuator motor. It is in the center of the dash inside the truck and is attached to the heater box. The actuator motor opens and closes the doors on the heater and air in order to direct the air you want either hot or cold as the heater core is in the bottom of the heater box and the ac evaporator air is coming from the top of the box. The motor may be ok and one of the arms is loose or worn out or the spring is weak and not holding position. Hope this helps.

Thermostat is sticking or heater core is blocked.do not keep running it or it is going to ruin the engine. It is running hot regardless if is blowing cool or hot air. Do not keep using the car.

the heater has went out of it or something is keeping it from trying to get it to warm up

Number 1: get the code; even if they light turns off an on, the code will be stored in the computer.

It sounds like you could have a variety of issues and more information needs to be given. How is the car running? Does it run & idle perfectly or does it stumble?

check coolant level sound like engine low on antifreeze.make sure coolant overflow jug coolant level full cold mark.if overflow jug empty more likely radiator low on coolant allowing air in the cooling system.

Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem

Sounds that you are low on coolant so low that the coolant sensor is no longer immersed in it If the coolant sensor is prevented from working, due to low levels of coolant, then the engine radiator cooling fan will not be started and overheating will result. The gurgling you hear is due to air in the system. When the engine is cold remove the coolant reservoir cap. Set the interior heater to max temperature. Top up the reservoir to the maximum limit with water/antifreeze mix (2:1 is usual). Start the the engine. Be prepared to add more coolant mix as air is cleared from the system. When the top hose from the engine to the radiator gets warm give it plenty of squeezing to help shift any air pockets. The fan should also start at about this time. Make sure that the interior heater is blowing hot air. When the gurgling has stopped and no more coolant needs to be added to stay at the max level then replace the reservoir cap and secure it firmly. Allow the engine to reach running temperature. Check all hoses, junctions, gaskets water pump seal etc for any signs of leaks as it would be good to detect any cause for the previous loss of coolant.

Is the coolant level full? Sounds like air pockets, as a temperature sensor can't read air temperature. If it looks good, you might have a circulation problem, due to plugged radiator, or heater core, or possibly a worn out water pump. You can also "feel" around the thermostat to see if it's opening properly.

Hello Daisy.
The gurgling sound may have been air mixed in with the coolant/Antifreeze.
Have you checked the level of your coolant?
Don't trust the reservoir level. Open the radiator cap itself when the vehicle is cold and check the level there.
If the level is low, top it up and try it. If it is low then it would be a good idea to check the cooling system for leaks.
Hope it all goes well for you.