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I put a new steering belt about 4 months ago, now i am trying to adj. it but i am finding the adjustment very hard to do. the way the steering pump is bolted to the engine is making this task very difficult. could u help?

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If there is some adjust left on the bracket you might be able to wedge a piece of wood between the engine and pump body to pry the pump over enough to tighten the belt. It is in a hard to reach place so sometimes a bent piece of wood helps.

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How do you loosen a power steering tensioner on a 86 Chevy caprice?


I've got an 85 2.5 celebrity and am assuming that your 86 is similar. Most people might think this is a incorrect question, but I've spend hours trying to locate all the bolts to loosen. The alternator belt is straightforward. Loosen the alternator bolt in located in the slider portion and the pivot bolt (15mm on mine). The compressor belt is straightforward. Loosen the two compressor adjustment bolts in the slider slot and the loosen the pivot bolt. This belt will be hard to remove even with the compressor fully pushed down. Take some vitamins. The worse belt by far is the power steering belt. Loosen the pivot bolt on the bottom of the power steering "canister". There are two adjustment bolts to loosen from my memory. The one that is easy to find is on the engine side of the power steering canister. The other is hard to see but is located on the pulley side between two of the pulleys. It's also hard to get a wrench on. But, you've got to find and loosen this bolt. I cringe when this belt breaks. Good Luck!!

Jul 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fan belt diagram


1989 Belts

Print


INSPECTION

All Models
Belt tension is very important, as a belt that is too tight will put too much stress on the bearings of the components it drives, causing them to wear out prematurely. A belt that is too loose will slip, causing (1) the belt to wear out quickly due to friction heat, and (2) inefficient alternator, air pump, cooling fan or air conditioner operation because much of the turning power supplied by the main drive pulley is lost.
The belts should be inspected and/or adjusted at 2,000 miles (3,221 km) and then every 4,000 miles (6,441 km). First, make sure that the belt is properly positioned in the pulley. Check the pulleys for damage. Inspect the belts for cracks and signs of fraying. These usually develop on the inner surface and extend into the backing or outer surface of the belt. Check also for glazing, a completely smooth appearance which indicates slippage. A belt that is in good shape will have a slightly grainy appearance like cloth. Replace belts that show cracks or glazing.
Check belt tension. Apply pressure with your thumb at the mid-point between two pulleys, and the belt should stretch or deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm). If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust/replace as necessary.


ADJUSTING

Except RX-7
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
To adjust belts, first locate the mounting bolt on the air pump or alternator (each has its own belt and adjusts to permit that belt to be tensioned correctly). This bolt attaches the unit to the engine and has a nut on the end. Put a wrench on either end and loosen the bolt until there is practically no tension on it. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt, which is located on the opposite side of the unit and which passes through a slot. Pull the alternator or air pump away from the engine and tighten the adjusting bolt just enough to hold the unit while you check tension. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the belt deflects the proper amount, then fully tighten the adjusting and mounting bolts. Avoid too much belt tension or overtightening of bolts. A new belt should be tensioned just slightly more (about 0.4 in. or 10mm deflection) and checked after several hundred miles of operation to make sure that tension is still adequate. (Tension is lost very rapidly until a new belt is broken in.)


0900c1528004e5dd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Some engines utilize an idler pulley with a locknut at its center


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Fig. Fig. 2: After loosening the idler adjuster locknut, turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it


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Fig. Fig. 3: On some GLC engines equipped with power steering, the pump pulley uses a slotted adjusting bar, adjusting bolt and locknut to adjust belt tension
Late model GLCs, 323s, 626s, MX-6s and 929s may use an adjusting bolt on either the idler pulley (a pulley which is not directly associated with any of the accessories) or on the power steering pump itself. This bolt makes adjustment much easier because you don't have to hold the accessory under a great deal of tension while tightening the mounting bolts.
On models where the idler pulley has a locknut at its center, simply loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it or remove the belt. Do not forget to retighten the locknut when tension is correct, or vibration may cause it to fall off. Recheck the tension with the locknut tightened and readjust if necessary.
To adjust the power steering pump pulley on the GLC, loosen the slotted adjusting bar bolt, the mounting bolt across from it, and the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to remove the belt or reduce tension, and clockwise to increase it. When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut, adjusting bar bolt, and pump mounting bolt.
On 626, MX-6 and 929 models with a 4-ridge or 5-ridge ribbed type V-belt driving both the air conditioner and power steering pump, belt tension is much greater. With a used belt, deflection should only be about 1 / 4 in. (6.35mm).
RX-7
See Figures 4, 5 and 6
The RX-7 may be equipped with as many as three or four separate drive belts. The belts are arranged at the front of the engine and drive the cooling fan/water pump, alternator, power steering pump, emission control air pump and air conditioner compressor (if so equipped).


0900c1528004e5e0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Checking belt tension on 1979-85 RX-7
Check the tension of each belt at the arrows numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 (depending on year) shown in the illustration. Press on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure (about 22 lbs.). The belts should give or deflect the amounts shown in the chart.


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Fig. Fig. 5: Checking belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7


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Fig. Fig. 6: RX-7 belt deflection limits
Use the following appropriate procedure and illustration to make drive belt adjustment(s).
ALTERNATOR AND AIR PUMP
See Figure 7

  1. Slightly loosen the stationary pivot bolt on the alternator or air pump.
  2. Loosen the adjusting bolt.
  3. Using a piece of wood (tool handle, etc.) as a prybar, move the alternator or air pump outward or inward until the proper deflection is obtained.



0900c1528004e5e3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 7: Adjusting alternator drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
When prying on the alternator or air pump, make sure the prybar is anchored against the engine case and not against a component (distributor cap, etc.) which could break.

  1. Tighten the adjusting bolt. Remove the prybar and tighten the pivot bolt.

AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND POWER STEERING PUMP
See Figures 8 and 9
  1. Loosen the locknut on the idler pulley, if so equipped.
  2. Turn the adjusting bolt until the proper tension is reached.



0900c1528004e5e4.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting air conditioning compressor drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7

  1. Tighten the locknut and recheck the belt tension.



0900c1528004e5e5.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 9: Adjusting power steering pump drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

All Models

  1. Loosen the accessory being driven and move it on its pivot point to free the belt.
  2. Remove the belt. If an idler pulley is used, it is often only necessary to loosen the idler pulley to provide enough slack to remove the belt.

To install:
  1. After the new belt is in place and properly tensioned, start the engine and allow it to run for about five minutes to seat the new belt.
  2. Stop the engine and recheck the belt tension. Adjust as necessary.

On engines with many driven accessories, other belts may have to be removed to access the one being replaced.

May 27, 2012 | 1989 Mazda 323

1 Answer

Power steering for my Bora/Jetta 4 V5 has suddenly gone and its hard.


Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Power Steering Fluid Low Power Steering Fluid Level.
2 Inspect Power Steering Pump Worn out or Damaged Power Steering Pump.
3 Inspect Power Steering Hose Leaking or Incorrectly Installed Power Steering Hose.
4 Inspect Belt Tension Incorrect Belt Tension Will Allow Belts to Slip.
5 Inspect Belt Incorrectly Routed, Adjusted(Tensioned), Missing or Worn Drive Belt(s).
7 Inspect Ball Joint-upper Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
8 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower Malfunctioning Ball Joint.

What happes when a vehicle experiences a loss of power steering, is that the car reverts to a
manual steering car (like in the Model T days), making steering difficult, especially at low speeds,
and during low speed maneuvering.

May 13, 2011 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you remove the timing belt cover on a 1995 VW Golf.


What is needed Tools: 6mm and 8mm allen wrench socket, 5mm allen wrench. 8mm, 13mm, 19mm socket and ratchet. 10mm combination wrench. Long ratchet extensions (at least one 6in, more are helpful). 5inch Wheel puller (for main shaft pulley). (Some models may need a special spanner tool to adjust the timing belt tensioner) Parts: 2 gal of anti-freeze mixed with distilled water. All three V-belts. (Alt, A/C, P/S) $32.95 New water pump top. $91.91 New gasket for WP. $9.13 New timing belt. $26.13.


Procedure:

Remove battery cable (either power (+) or ground (-)) remove alternator remove A/C remove power steering pump .Remove water pump pulleys remove main shaft pulleys remove timing belt covers remove A/C mounting hardware remove timing belt (don't turn any of the wheels its connected to) replace timing belt adjust belt tension remove water pump face put on new gasket and new part.

Leave pulleys off. replace bottom timing belt cover, replace crank shaft pulley, replace steering pump, replace A/C, put small belt on A/C (hang loose) put large belt around A/C, Main and water pump pulley. put middle size belt on Main water pump and power steering pump reattach bolts for the steering pump pulleys put alternator back on adjust all belts. connect battery

Problem areas:
Main pulley: There are 4 6mm hex head bolts. These must be removed. The main 19mm hex head can be used to turn the engine it the timing belt slips and you have to readjust the timing.

Putting on new belts: This can be a real pain if you get VW belts. The adjustments won't give enough to put the belts over the edge so the easy way is to remove the pulley on the water pump. Then its real easy.

Timing: If you turn the wheels that the timing belt goes on you will have to reset the timing. Mark the timing points with something like whiteout so its easy to see. The timing mark on the toothed gears are small dots. The timing mark for the crankshaft is a small cut on the outer pulley. When its aligned with the intermediate wheel timing mark (there is an arrow on the cover as a hint) should intersect as viewed from the right wheel well. The camshaft timing mark should line up with the top of the engine near the front.

Power steering pump: It is held on with lots of bolts. One is in a channel that is hard to see but can be found with a 6" extension. If you look at the pump you will see three bolts that go into the housing. This should give you an idea where the forth is.

May 01, 2010 | 1995 Volkswagen Golf

4 Answers

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee squeaking and power steering


It very well could be the pawer steering pump. But to isolate the squeking sound, take that can of wd-40 and find the idler pully and tensior pully. Spray the bearing area of both pulleys. If your bearing in those pulleys are going bad then it will make that noise. If the wd-40 quits the noise at one of those tow pulleys then you know which one to replace. If its does not, then start looking to replace the powersteering pump. I take it you have checked the power steering fluid levels and they are ok?? Also, you stated that the noise started after you bought the alternator, then try a new alternator. It might of just been a faulty alternator. Happens all the time. One last inexpensive tip is replacing all belts with new. Belts get glazed over and dirty and cause noise too. One last question. Did you make sure the belts were tight enough? Just a little variance in the belt tension can make the difference.

Aug 07, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How do you replace power steering belts?


Nice ride!! An oldie, but goodie. Should be easy to change the power steering belt on this one. Just loosen the mounting bolt and the adjusting bolt and push the pump toward the engine. That will loosen tension and allow you to remove the belt. Put the new belt on and move the pump out away from engine. You may have use something as a lever to help put the proper tension on, and while holding tension, tighten the mounting and adjustment bolts down. Proper tension is 1/4" deflection at the midway point on the belt. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Jul 30, 2009 | 1983 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

I'm trying to replace the power steering pump on my acura integra 1994 how can i replace it


drain power steering fluid.disconnect the inlet and out let hoses from power steering pump.remove belt by loosen the adjusting bolts on pump bracket.remove power steering bolts and remove pump.put in new power steering pump torque it 17 ft lbs . connect hoses .put belt back on adjust the belt tension. add fluid check level . bleed the air from system.

Apr 13, 2009 | 1990 Acura Integra Hatchback

2 Answers

Loud squealing from power steering pump - do I need new PS pump?


Hi! The pulley could be worn or the belt is not properly adjusted.Causing the belt not to grip the pulley but slide on it,creating a friction.

Jan 15, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Celica

3 Answers

I need to replace to replace fanbelt on 300D 1984 mercedes.


Transit Guru360 is right, It's not so hard and you might remove a few extra nuts...but once you've done it, it's a piece of cake the next time.

I just did this on my 300CD and this is what you do...

I dont have a AC belt since my AC doesn't work I removed it a while ago

1 You'll need:
a. a nice long pry bar (for tightening belts later)
b. a pair of 13m and 17mm wrenchs as well as sockets to do other side of each bolt.
c. a pan for the antifreeze to drip into since you'll remove the top hose to give you more room to
work and it will be full of antifreeze.
d. straight screwdriver
e. Some Gojo...yes working on diesels is a dirty dirty job

First take off top radiator hose, then smaller overflow hose, then upper and lower air intake hoses and unplug that little wire...not sure what it does, but it's in the way.

The power steering and alternator both have 3 bolts that hold them in place...you'll have to remove the power steering belt first. These are all 13mm. If standing at drivers side, there's a bold at bottom of powr steering pump, its an adjustment kind, remove the nut or just loosen it but leave bolt in.

Then remove the other two bolts, they are recessed in the back of pump on lower side. You can see which ones they are by looking for the nuts on front of pump. Loosen them and remove them.

Pump will be totally loose now, take off that belt and carefully finagle it around fan and off if need replaced, if not, just drop and let hang for now.

Then onto Alternator which will be bottom left of engine as you look at front of engine. Theres a through bolt on bottom of alternator, just roll up your sleevesand climb under car and use 17mm wrench...the alternator is threaded so there's not nut down there to loosen. Dont remove this bolt, just loosen it well.

Now loosen the top 2 bolts, dont worry about the adjustment, mine was stripped...and my adjustment was the prybar:) Loosen those but dont remove them...wiggle the alternator until it gives you the slack you need to remove the belt, if you cant get the slack, you can wrap your fingers around the belt upper and lower and squeeze, this will give lots of leverage and force alternator to move in, then pop that belt off and discard.

Now just put the alternator belt back on, use prybar to get proper tension...and tighten. A half inch of play is about the right tension...but tighter is good with a new belt since it will stratch a bit over time.

Make sure all 3 bolts are tight on alternator then move to replace power steering pump belt, but you will have to put at least onee of the top bolts back on to pivot against when using prybar to tighten that belt, then once you have the tension you want, tighten adjustment bolt, then keep the tension and put 3rd bolt in and tighten, make sure all are tight and you have 1/2 inch play on that belt as well. Then put all the other things back together ...check to make sure all tools are out from engine compartment and fire it up, if it squeels, it's too loose, if not, you're good and you can wipe down your tools, put them away and use the GoJo:)

Good Luck!

Jan 08, 2009 | 1984 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 300 Class

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