Hi thanx for your answer to my question. The mechanic who did the work isn't in until Tuesday and I really need to know how much it will cost (tof fix the vacuam leak on the intake engine manifold) as I was planning on getting the trani fixed and selling it as asap and have already poured a ton of money into it. Please send me a cost estimate if you can.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: intake engine manifold qt.
Based on local labor rates (which may be different in your area), the estimate to repair your vacuum leak at your intake (also assuming the intake will have to come off the engine to fix the leak), the cost will be around $350.00. Is it a 4 cylinder or 6?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You really won't know until you take the intake off. There could be other problems that caused the leak before the intake cracked. Until the intake is replaced you won't be able to do a pressure test of the cooling system. Make sure the thermostat is replaced since it could have been damaged from the overheating episode.
Hi Allen, The brake booster is connected to the intake manifold and that is where the low pressure is generated. If the diaphragm or one way valve, or connection pipe is leaking it will give the same effect as a leakage on the intake manifold. The symptoms you report are of a leakage on the intake manifold. To prove one way or another, disconnect the vacuum pipe for the booster and block the connection into the intake manifold. Be careful when testing as you will need to use excessive force on the brake pedal to stop. If the symptoms disappear fit a new booster, if not, pour water along the manifold and observe any bubbles where there may be a leakage. Let me know how you get on. Regards John
4 qt's for motor.5 for filter.There are 4 ways to fix this.
# 1.If your oil filter is in vertical position,remove it with a band tool and drain it or replace it with new filter.Use new oil for gasket and make sure old gasket isn't stuck on motor.Please use 3 ton jack stands to support car on the frame.
# 2.Use a box end wrench to loosen oil drain nut and loosen a little at a time until the oil stops dripping and turns in to a stream,close it once in a while and check level.If you don't know how many threads are on the plug best to let it drip.
# 3.buy a dip stick oil changer and change oil with a tube down the dipstick tube.This one comes from a marine supply and is a bit pricey at $70.00 + tax but is safer than under the car work.Called a big boy. Auto parts store will have these tools as well,some will drain your transmission and then you can change the filter with out all the mess.(filter is inside the transmission pan,no drain plug)..........Thank You for choosing FixYa.
Find another mechanic. you got ripped off. A broken crank does not mean you cant check the valves. Called a leak down test. This engine should have been replaced. And probably still should. Your talking about a $1500.00 job.
First, I am assuming that your vehicle is equipped with the 3.1L V-6 and NOT the 3.8L V-6? (Engine size is really nice to know in situations like this!)
It could be any where in the cooling system. The intake gaskets also like to leak externally. A bad intake gasket does not always mix antifreeze with the oil. Take a flashlight and look for coolant on top and/or down each side of the transmission bell housing. This is VERY common on these engines. It may be leaking just enough to where the exhaust crossover pipe is burning it up (and stinking) before it has a chance to run on the ground. Also look for stains on the intake manifold-to block mating surfaces and on the side of the bell housing that will indicate a leak. if your vehicle is still using Dex-Cool, the stains will be pink. If your coolant has been changed to green antifreeze, the stains will usually be real white or dark green depending on the brand and the severity of the leak.
If there are no leaks or stains in this area, then look around the water pump area for the same things. The radiator or coolant hoses (including heater hoses) could also be leaking. If it is stinking when the engine is hot, then you could get it hot then shut if off and look for steam.
TIP: A bright LED flashlight works really good for locating steam.
The starter on the Northstar engine is nestled in intake valley underneath the intake manifold. You must first disconnect the negative battery terminal and then relieve the fuel pressure. After you will have to remove the intake assembly to get at the starter which then after that its pretty basic to remove the starter. Just be sure to torque the bolts on the intake back to spec when reassembling (torque specs are written on the intake manifold in bold yellow lettering from what I can recall). With these complicated cars you are better off joining a site like caddyinfo.com and reading their how-to forums and asking other Cadillac owners for advice. It`s very easy when you know what you`re confident and have some simple mechanical ``know-how``.
It is the head gasket. Have that replaced and you will be fine. You have an air leak. I was told by the mechanic at mazda that the anti freeze eats away at the gaskets. CRAZY, but it works. I still have an issue with my 2001 Tribute revving while in park. Its always something.