We are trying to replace the entire exhaust system on our suzuki 1991 jx 1.6 4 door 4 wheel drive the new muffler ordered from napa is 11 inches to short between the catalytic converter and the muffler all the part numbers match up but this new muffler is shorter than the old the napa tech. doesnt undersrand why? we are on a isolated island so cant bring the vehicle into a shop we must do it ourselves any sugestions what this could be???

ah double posted, ok but now the year, 1989
wlll that is a G16a engine, 8 valves.
and is free running, engine.
end story.

4 way covered.
FSM
the belt new has a page that shows how.
and here

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html

the G16 engines all need a cam belt every 60k or will do that like clock work, G16B MPI 4 injector or G16A, TBI ,one injector engine.?????????????????????????????????????????????

compression is not OK, it\'s 150psi or more.

is it? good?, and to run a 4 banger, all 4 need to work. think, 4 engines.

sure the cat broke up, that can clog some mufflers. and cause huge back pressure. (the engine pumps air, if you put a stopper in the exhaust the AIR PUMP DIES)

all engines.

its an old car.

i cant tell you what order to do things.

but my tool box is full of tools , is yours?

the cat back pressure check at the 02 is 2 psi or less at 2500 rpm, but yours dont start, so dropping the exhaust solves that.

i just rack back the exhaust manifold on the bolts/studs.



mr, Otto cycle engine is not new ,nor has it changed.

it still plays by the book , compresson, spark, fuel, in that order.

so compress x4 is what tested sparks out, WIDEOPEN throttle

80psi is common reading x4 (dont be lazy do all 4 )

80 is retarded cam, timing belt never ever serviced, and is now slipped. or heck busted

150+ is good

next is SPARK got spark on all 4?

all are dead, or #1 timing is way retared see slipped belt.

ok spark is good, and timing set.

so it runs on test fuel.

yes, , ok yes, IT WILL.

now we work fueling LAST.

cant burn fuel with no compression or timed correctly



http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html





no tools? , all is lost.



no tools , no joy.



(that means basic, meters and gauges, i assume every mech has wrenches, its a given)

What size engine is it if its the 4.3 v6 the order is 1-6-5-4-3-2

2006 Mazda 3


Applies to 2006 Mazda Mazda3:
Available engines
4 Cylinders 2.0L MFI DOHC
4 Cylinders 2.3L MFI DOHC


Could be a number of things - you're going to end up checking the entire car.

Off the top of my head:
a) exhaust component has rusted loose (usually catalytic converter heat shield). Any loose exhaust component (hanger/muffler, etc.) will vibrate at idle.
b) glove compartment door - loose hinge
c) motor mount - rubber part of metal/rubber mount vibrates loose & falls out.
d) transmission mount - ditto.

The Maintenance manual for your car says:

Clicking noise at idle or driving
--------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Main (Crankshaft) Bearing - Excessive Bearing Clearance.
1 Inspect Rod Bearing - Incorrect Rod or Main Bearing Clearances.
2 Inspect Rocker Arm - Worn or Incorrectly Adjusted Rocker Arm(s).
3 Inspect Piston Ring Set - Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
4 Inspect Piston - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Piston.
5 Inspect Fuel Line Assembly - Fuel Line Leaking.
6 Inspect Hose Clamp - Loose or Missing Fuel Line Clamps.

Tapping noise at idle
------------------------------
1 Inspect Valve Lifter - Insufficient Oil Supply.
2 Inspect Fan Blade - Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).
3 Inspect Oil Pump Screen - Clogged Oil Pump Screen.
4 Inspect Oil Pump Drive Gear - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump Drive Gear.
5 Inspect Exhaust Valve(s) - Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
6 Inspect Oil(Crankcase)Capacity - Lifters Need Additional Lubrication.
7 Inspect Oil Filler Cap - Oil Filler Cap Damaged or Missing.
8 Inspect Oil Pump - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump.
9 Inspect Oil Filter - Old or Clogged Oil Filter.
10 Inspect Oil FLow Check Valve - Damaged or Faulty Oil FLow Check Valve Caused Loss of Oil Pressure.

Vibration while Accelerating
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT - Worn or Damaged CV Half-Shaft.

vibration while braking
--------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.

Vibration while driving - entire vehicle
-----------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor Specs - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.
2 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Ball Joint-UPPER - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Tie Rod End - Worn or Damaged Tie Rod Ends.
6 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
7 Inspect Wheel Hub Bearing - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Hub Bearing.

Vibration in rear axle area while driving
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Driveshaft - Bent, Loose or Unbalanced Driveshaft.
4 Inspect Differential Drive Pinion - Worn, Damaged or Broken Pinion Teeth.
4 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Pinion Bearing - Worn or Damaged Pinion Bearings or Yolk Shaft.


Vibration in steering wheel while driving
---------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Vibration in tire/wheel area while driving
------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Incorrectly Tightened or Installed Wheel Bearing.

Vibration under vehicle while driving
---------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Muffler - Damaged or Burned Out Muffler.

Vibration in rear wheeel area while driving
------------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

There is three position. Door, On, Off. Set it to door position. You would know of course because when you shut the door it turns off.

Take your car to a muffler shop and ask them if it's possible to reweld the exhaust pipe to the muffler. If the exhaust has rusted too thin, they wont be able to weld it safely, at that point you will have to replace the entire system unfortunately. Exhaust systems comes in sections, so ask them if its possible for them to replace the exhaust from the catalytic converter back only. It should be cheaper if they can do that. Good luck!

It sounds like you have a hole somewhere in your exhaust. More than likely your muffler. I would recommend replacing it. You would have to cut out your existing muffler and clamp on a new one. You could also take it to an exhaust shop and get a new one put on (the easier one). Hope this helps! Please rate 4 thumbs up!

if exhaust pipes are in good shape-no rust thru than just replace muffler

Another problem. Cupping would be from alignment. Dry rot is dry rot. All tires will do it.

A muffler shop should be able to replace just the converter