I have a similar problem. On the 96 2500 there is only one speed sensor on the rear. It has been replaced however I still have the braking problem. When coming to a stop at the last little bit the pedal goes down and I can't stop as well. If I pump the brakes it works better and If I disconnect the abs on the master cylinder I have good solid brakes(just not so good in the winter)I have a similar problem. On the 96 2500 there is only one speed sensor on the rear. It has been replaced however I still have the braking problem. When coming to a stop at the last little bit the pedal goes down and I can't stop as well. If I pump the brakes it works better and If I disconnect the abs on the master cylinder I have good solid brakes(just not so good in the winter)
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It could be a faulty brake master cylinder though your description does remind me of a car that had the disc pads wrongly fitted and the anti-rattle springs were pushing the pads away from the discs instead of providing resistance.
A similar symptom can be experienced when a wheel bearing has excess free play and pushes the pads away from the disc.
I would use a hose clamp and isolate each brake in turn until the brake pedal operation is normal. If no clamping operation makes a significant difference I would then clamp two, three and then four hoses when if there is still no difference I would suspect the master cylinder or the basic brake pedal and servo adjustments.
e-brake pedal should go farther- is either out of adjustment or cable frozen- secondly sounds like only front brakes receiving enough pressure to "activate" properly- bleed all four brakes starting rear pass,then rear drive ,then front pass, then front drive- use plenty of fluid- bleed till fluid is clean without bubbles- will that long at first- this will insure not bubbles and no moisture- if a pro valve dies,you would have more problems- pedal would be really soft,would have both a brake light and abs warning lights
Theres a problem with a speed sensor at the wheels, there are four abs sensors one on each wheel and they read the wheel speed of each wheel, what is happening is that when you step on the brake the computer is reading the speeds of each wheel and sees one wheel is moving slower than the other and thinks that whell is skidding so intern its release the braks very very fast and thats the vibration you are feeling but the wheel is not skiding theres a problem with a sensor thats giving a flase reading, a scan tool will be needed to be conected to the compuetr and truck driven to see which sensor is bad or acting up, hope this is helpful. some times it can be dangerous if it keeps releasing the brakes while you are trying to stop.have this checked out.
The pedal goes down a long way(Rear brake shoes out of adjustment) or the pedal is hard to push and you have to about use two feet to stop the truck? (booster problem)
It Sounds Like Your ABS Channels, Its A Separate Hydraulic Circuit That Feeds Out To One Or More Wheel Cylinders Or Caliper Pistons.Anti-Lock Brake Systems Can Have From One To Four Channels.
sounds like a bad speed sensor in a wheel, or possibly a tire mismatch (different size tires on car front to back or one odd one) Abs can be turned off and will work in normal non-abs mode by pulling the appropriate fuse...This may help 'till you get it figured out.
IT DEPENDS ON THE OPTIONS THAT CAME WITH THE VEHICLE. IF YOU WANT TO FIND OUT IF THEY ALL HAVE ABS THEN LOOK ON THE BACK OF EACH WHEEL FOR A WIRE THAT GOES TO THE CENTER OF THE HUB SOMEWHERE. THAT WIRE GOES TO A RELUCTOR WHEEL THAT MEASURES VEHICLE SPEED AT EACH WHEEL. HOPE THIS HELPS. PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED. THANKS FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. GOOD LUCK
ABS went out while racing. I got a replacement from haprecycling for about $150 vs $1000+
just fyi, it's a pain to change. You will need a set of flare wrenchs and crows feet to get it in and out properly. Be VERY careful not to strip or cross thread the gettings.
Yes, I never did like ABS brakes because of this. What you have experienced is the ABS system working as it is designed to do. I know, it doesn't seem like you should still be moving after slamming on the brakes, but here is how it works;
When you apply a fast and hard pedal and the ground beneath you is wet the wheels stop at different times. There are sprockets mounted to the rear of the rotors, with magnetic sensors that monitor the wheel info. for all four wheels mounted next to the brake calipers. On a hard stop when the sensor detects one wheel stopping and another still going, these sensors send "pulses" to each wheel until the vehicle has stopped without the brakes having to lock up. The pulsiing is what you experienced and is a normal part of the ABS function.
Please rate this and let me know if it helped.
I have the same problem with my brakes. When I press the brakes they grab. I have replaces the brakes and still the same.
I have a similar problem. On the 96 2500 there is only one speed sensor on the rear. It has been replaced however I still have the braking problem. When coming to a stop at the last little bit the pedal goes down and I can't stop as well. If I pump the brakes it works better and If I disconnect the abs on the master cylinder I have good solid brakes(just not so good in the winter)
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