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Driving down the road brakes engage on there own .already replaced calipers and master cylinder

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Dont andestand wath is problem. more details needed.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1995 villager right front and left rear brake seizes after driving a couple of miles wont release until line is loosed


Did you by chance add power steering fluid to the brake reservoir instead of brake fluid?

Mar 01, 2015 | 1995 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

1988 Lincoln town car front brake calipers lock up have replaced both calipers. It drives perfect for awhile then they will lock up again.


When you replaced the calipers, did you also replace the caliper frame and slides? Start there. It is common in ford disk brakes to get "stuck" slide pins as they can rust inside the caliper causing the brakes to fail to release the rotor when you let off the pedal. Another cause is the flex line that connects the caliper to the metal lines at the body. As it ages, the inside of the rubber breaks down and collapses effectively becoming a check valve. Pedal force pushes fluid to the brake but separator spring pressure is not enough to make the fluid go back into the master cylinder effectively making the brakes lock up and bind. Try replacing slide pins if haven't already and replace the flex line.

Dec 05, 2014 | 1998 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

2005 silverado brakes sticking front only after driving little


I had the same problem and replaced both calipers with no change, I figured it was the master cylinder. When I pulled off the master cylinder I saw the vacume booster had about 2 cups of brake fluid in it which leaked from the front of the master cylinder. I replaced master cylinder and vacume booster and brakes work great now.

Aug 30, 2012 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

New brakes and rotors in rear 6 months ago. now losing fluid and brake light on


could be leak from master cylinder this should be evident by fluid running down between master and booster or leaking from piston seal on caliper, caliper will dip fluid onto wheel rim or road leaving a visual mess easy to see

May 29, 2012 | 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Brakes dragging bad let sit then fine driving then 5 miles down the road it start again car will come to a complete stop wont move let it cool down its fine brakes are sticking


sounds like some one has put wrong fluid in master cylinder.replace all seals and bleed the system to get rid of wrong fluid.Also rebuild front calipers and rear wheel cylinders or calipers and replace front brake hoses and it will be good.Just done this on the same car.if you dont do all of it you will continue to have trouble.
Good luck

Nov 20, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

My chevy lumina and when you go down the road the brakes start to rub and can smell them burning pressure builds up in the brakes the more you drive


Sounds like a typical frozen brake caliper situation.
First thing to do is not drive this car any further as you may have severe problems on the road, using either a car lift or a floor jack and safety jack supports, locate by eye and/or by smell which wheel is burning and smoking,example: If the passenger front brake is the one at fault, you will need to replace "both front brake pads, possibly both front disc brake rotors and if the disc brake caliper has a frozen piston on the right front, both front disc brake calipers(which can be simply determined by trying to squeeze the piston back with a large clamp or special tool that is made specifically for this and is easily obtained and easy to use from any parts store(Auto Zone or the like ) may even lend you some of the tools you need if you buy the parts from them...how cool is that?
If the caliper piston won't press back into its bore, it needs to be replaced and always replace both calipers not one side, the same with replacing the brake pads, example: right front caliper and brake pads are defective, replace also the left front caliper and pads as well, to allow for a proper stopping action, be sure to replace the disc brake rotors when changing brake pads as well.
Also while inspecting the vehicles brake system check the brake hoses(Heavy rubber lines that connect from a metal brake connector to the back side of your brake caliper, each wheels brake caliper or (wheel cylinder,used on the older drum brake systems) has a brake hose) look for cracks and leaks in the hoses, replace as needed.
Be certain to also check all four wheel disc brakes for signs of wear, if the brake pad (asbestos material mounted on the metal brake pad backing plate, known as the "web") looks about the thickness of the metal "web" or thinner, replace the disc pads and or drum brake pads along with the rotors(dish looking object that disc brake pads actually squeeze against to stop the car).

BLEEDING or PURGING AIR FROM THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:

The bleeding or purging of air from the hydraulic system in any brake system requires quite a bit of knowledge and patience, however, and if purging is needed ,two persons to do the job correctly.
First be certain the vehicle is jacked off the ground and secured on jack stands, start bleeding the furthest away brake from the master cylinder which is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall and be sure you have filled the master cylinder up with the proper recommended DOT (probably DOT lll or lV) brake fluid. Put the cover on the master cylinder once you have it filled and be aware to check the fluid level after each bleeding is done.
Step1:
After all your brake replacement work is done, fill master Cyl. and secure it's cover, be sure car is safely secured with jack stands , starting with both rear brakes/wheels off the ground(furthest from master cyl) have second person pumping(pushing the brake pedal up and down without letting off the pedal) this action forces any air in the hydraulic line to find its way out.
Pump pedal this way at least four to five pumps and hold the pedal down to the floor or as far as you can push it, don't let off the pedal, the person bleeding the passenger side rear disc brake caliper (furthest brake purge valve away from the master cylinder) will say "Ok, holld the pedal down", of course after he/she first told you to "Pump it up".
Step 2:
While the pedal is held tighly down the person bleeding will have located on the back of the disc brake caliper assembly a small(1/4 or 5/16 typical hex size) bleeder valve.
The valve must be opened with the proper size box wrench allowing the air to purge out(installing a small rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve nipple approx. 1 1/2 ft. long and having it suspended and submerged into a clear plastic jar that is 3/4 full of new brake fluid in it) you will see and hear the air release and if using the jar system(I totally recommend) you will see the air bubbles escaping out of the submerged hose. Doing it this way also will not allow air to re enter the system if the person pumping the pedal should happen to release the pedal before you tell them to. Close the bleeder valve.
Step 3: Repeat the process on each wheel at least four times or until you see no visible signs of air coming out, remember, wrench and hose (secured tightly on bleeder valve nipple and submerged in fluid) "Pump it up,(3-4 pumps)" Hold it Down", open the bleeder valve and repeat this process until each wheel has clear fluid flowing out of the bleeder purge valves. Be certain all lines and valves are closed tight.
When the system is purged of all air, the pedal will be as good as the way it was when new, dont forget with all "Power" brake systems, the brake pedals will never be all the way up to the top when pressing the pedal down, it may also feel like it is low, but after a good road test you will see that the static feel of the pedal is not the same as the actual stopping feel of the pedal on the roadway driving.
The only time the feel of the brake pedal should be questioned is if it sinks to the floor, or if you can litterally pump the pedal up a few times and on the second or third static pump(static meaning the car is not moving) the pedal is actually getting higher off the floor, then you may have air still in the system.
If so repeat all the prceedures again being sure you have the master cylinder full of fluid before after and during the entire process.


This is a hard, dirty, and lengthy job, doing it yourself will save you hundreds of dollars, but if you do not work with safety being your primary concern, all the money saved is worthless.
Please be sure to wear the proper eye/hand protection, and wear a painters mask as well.
Happy Motoring!!

May 19, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

Brakes engaging without pressing the pedal


this is a simple job of adjusting the rod on the end of the servo that pushes the master cylinder .remove master cylinder and with help push the brake pedal down and then screw the end of the shaft in a mm or so .This will cure your problem.

Sep 01, 2009 | 2005 Ford Five Hundred

1 Answer

Front brakes stick on


either your calipers are sticking and need replacing. OR the hoses have failed internally. and need replacing.. very rare but possible the master cylinder is not allowing the fluid to return usually caused bu a booster failing and causing some down travel in the master cylinder. I'd start by raising the front end up. appling hard brake pressure. turn the tire.. then loosen the brake bleeder to check for pressure. if the bleeder sprays fluid and the brakes release forget the calipers. if they are still tight then replace the calipers. pump them up again if they released.. and break the line free at the master cylinder. if they don't release then replace the hoses..

Nov 16, 2008 | 1999 Daewoo Lanos

1 Answer

While driving down the road brakes want to stay engaged and not depress


It could be your master cylinder is pulling a vacuum on the lines. May be an indication of your mc failing or trapped or pocketed air in the lines. Not normal air in the lines, but, air that is trying to get out and as it does it pulls a vacuum. One other thing to look for is your brake calipers staying engaged to a certain degree, this could indicate failing calipers seal, fault brake line or wheel cylinder failure. Check out these things

anaanymous

Oct 11, 2008 | Toyota Tacoma Cars & Trucks

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