Question about Chevrolet Aveo
Take your cell phone. Google ur loc dealer ship. Have car towed if un drivable have a real mechanic fix it. ... No pic needed
Posted on Jul 26, 2017
Hey Janie, watch these video's and read the Techtips...
Find someone that knows something about cars.. this is a pretty straight forward job...if "they" have the right tools!!!
Techtips Replacing and Upgrading MacPherson Struts and Shock Absorbers
Posted on Jul 26, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Replacing a hatch strut
Don't pay the dealer to doit, this takes about five minutes and is very basic.
First prop the hatch up, the closer to full open the better.
Second, locate the spring retaining clip at each end of the strut.
Third, with a small point, flat blade screw driver, carefully pry the spring retaining clip loose from the strut end. It actually kinda slides in a groove until it's free of the strut end. Repeat for the other end of the strut.
Forth remove the strut from the vehicle.
Now you can install the replacement strut. Installation is reverse of removal; you should start with the retaining clips pulled back from the strut ends. attach one end, secure the retaining clip, then adjust the length of the strut and the height of the door until you can attatch the other end. I found that securing the bottom end of the strut to the body first made it easier to attach the top, instead of the other way around.
Also, a good place to look for parts is www.hondapartsdirect.com; best prices on new dealer, OEM parts as I have found anywhere.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
SOURCE: need to replace rear struts
It depends on who does it. If you are doing it by yourself, I would allow at least a couple of hours on each side, although it should take no more than one per side. If you have air tools and a lift, it should take between an hour or two from start to finish, since removing wheels, bolts etc would be fast. Hope this helps you, Rick
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
SOURCE: replacing front struts
Okay....here is the steps first....and then the directions on how to use the tools:
Posted on May 13, 2009
It sounds like the mechanic may have left the upper strut nut a bit loose, you may want to ask him to check it, but be nice, Toyota had some problems with upper strut mounts. These are on the top of the strut, they hold them to the body of the car. Unfortunately you have to remove and disassemble the struts to replace them. You could try asking your mechanic to just replace the one side and try it. I'm pretty sure that's your problem and he may give you a break since he's done all the other work. There is also a bulletin on a rattle from the side view mirror, but I think since this just started with the strut job, the mount is your most likely cause.
Google: toyota upper strut mount rattle
Posted on May 17, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 Lexus ES300 - 45K
Are you sure this is a rattle or is it more of a creaking noise? I have a 2000 ES300 and had an issue when I would go over speed bumps and the noise would drive me nuts! However replacing the bushing in the top of the strut mount is expensive due to the labor involved.. Replacement of the strut or the bushing isn't necessary. Just open the hood, locate the strut housing and you ll be able to see the black rubber bushing in the middle. Obtain a can of Heavy Duty silicone aerosol spray and attach a straw to the spray tip. Using a flathead screwdriver wedge the screwdriver between the top of the bushing and the metal pushing the screwdriver all the way to the edge of the metal underneath the roof of the metal housing. Then pry the edge of the bushing away from the metal housing so that the top of the edge of the bushing exposed and stick the straw end of the silicone into the spot and spray generously. Only slight bushing movement will be obtained as the bushing is pretty stiff but it will be enough. Work your way around using this technique until you get the spray fully around the bushing 360 degrees getting it into the area between the edge of the bushing and the metal. Then spray the silicone onto the top of the bushing filling it all the way up until it spills over the metal. After it drains down, repeat again making sure you fill it above the rim of the bushing so it seeps into the area between the bushing and he metal housing (or frame) because this is where the rubbing is taking place that is creating that awful noise. Repeat on the other side and your done. The main goal is to get the silicone into the area between the metal and the bushing along the edge. This happens to be the way I was able to do it. This totally solved my problem and now the car is so quiet there aren't any knocking, creaking or rattling noises. This was a hard solution to explain without visuals, hope you can follow. This will work for sure. The Heavy Duty Silicone spray I used was manufactured by CRC and I bought it from Walmart.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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