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Well, I can't tell by your explanation if the knob stem is broken & just spinning around or if it feels normal and nothing happens.
So, I guess I would first have you check all the fuses labeled "AC" or "Heater". Might be just a blown fuse, but remember, fuses always blow for a reason. There are many things that can be causing your problem like the heater/ac fan speed relay or a broken wire, etc.
I don't how auto repair savvy you are but, Google "Mazda 3 a/c panel". You will see many things on that first page like inexpensive replacement knobs, etc. There are even several YouTube videos on how to gain access to your ac/heater control panel. There is a wealth of information there. If you are not a do-it-yourselfer, you can at least look through there to educate yourself before you take your car to someone. Being informed ahead of time is very valuable.
Usually a sign of a blend door problem under the dash. Years ago the direction of air flow was controlled by vac, now its controlled by small electric motors on the vent doors. Could be a blend door motor or a problem with the controller.
before 1996 they use onboard diagnosis system for jeep.
when you turn on key you need to count check engine light blinks.
here are codes taken from internet.
11* No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
12* Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.
13** No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmosphereic) pressure reading at start-up
14** MAP sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
MAP sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
15** No vehicle distance (speed) sensor signal detected during road load conditions.
17* Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel (thermostat).
21** Neither rich nor lean condition detected from the oxygen sensor input.
Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range.
22** Engine coolant temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
Engine coolant temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
23** Intake manifold air temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
Intake manifold air temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
24** Throttle position sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.
Throttle position sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
25** A shorted condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits.
27* Injector #1 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
Injector #2 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
Injector #3 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
Injector #4 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
Injector #6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
33* An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit.
34* An open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.
Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
Speed control switch input above the maximum acceptable voltage.
35* An open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan relay circuit.
41* An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit.
42* An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit.
44* An open or shorted condition exists in the engine coolant
temperature sensor circuit or a problem exists in the PCM's battery
temperature voltage circuit.
46** Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.
47** Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during
engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery
voltage during active test of generator output.
51** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
52** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
53* PCM internal fault condition detected.
54* No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking.
55* Completion of diagnostic trouble code display on the malfunction indicator lamp (check engine lamp).
62* Unsuccessful attempt to update SRI (service reminder indicator) miles in the PCM EEPROM.
63* Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.
* - Check engine lamp will not illuminate at all times if this code was
recorded. Cycle ignition key as described and observe code flashed by
check engine lamp.
** - Check engine lamp will illuminate during engine operation if this code was recorded.
PCM = Powertrain Control Module (the engine computer)
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure (the sensor that measures how hard the engine is sucking air through the intake manifold
EEPROM = Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (a type of computer chip used inside the PCM)
The pulley on the air condition has to turn it has a belt on it. The Compressor engages to pre cool the evaporator. Most likely you have a blend door pod leak or leak in the hose or the sampler valve is bad. I would replace the sampling valve behind the glove box/air bag. As that reads the cabin temp and if it thinks the car is cold the heat will stay on because everything is automatic. All vents will blow cold when it thinks its hot and in addition to floor and corner dash center vents will blow cold when it works. If the direction of air is correct then the A/C system may have a leak or need a charge of freon.
First be sure that you do not have the controls set to defrost the windows since on just about all vehicles nowadays with the controls set that way the air conditioner will be turned on...even if it is not so warm outside. So...be sure that you do not have any of the controls set to defrost and that the heater is turned all the way on.
It sounds like though that the control for the vents is not operating properly. This is a combination of mechanical movements of the vent flaps and small "air motors" that operate the flaps. These air units are controlled by air vacuum taken from the engine compartment through tiny hoses. If the hoses get cracks, holes or come loose from their fittings then your vents will not move correctly so it is a matter of looking and tracing each one of the hoses to make sure they are fastened correctly, have not come loose and are not cracked or leaking. The problem can even be in the engine compartment where the hose(s) connect to the engine vacuum system...so it will take lots of looking carefully with flashlights etc....good luck.
"MAX" ONLY puts the climate control in the RECIRC mode. Door modes change to " RECIRCULATE" interior cabin air back to be RE-COOLED, instead of using HOT OUTSIDE air to cool. If the problem is in the panel, complete replacement is required. Hope this helps
the door opening & closing on Max a/c is the inside/outside air intake door.
The temp blend door is the one you are concernd about. It says you have to remove instrument panel for access. ouch!!!
------------------------------------- A/C Electronic Door Actuator Motor
The A/C electronic door actuator motor (19E616) is located on top of the A/C evaporator core housing assembly.
Its function is to move the A/C air temperature control door on command from the control assembly.
The A/C electronic door actuator motor contains a reversible electric motor and a potentiometer. The potentiometer wiper is connected to the actuator output shaft and moves with the output shaft to indicate the position of the A/C air temperature control door.
Battery voltage is applied to the ends of the potentiometer. The voltage available at the wiper indicates the position of the potentiometer. The actuator wiper voltage is sent to the control module and matched with the wiper voltage of the module potentiometer. The printed circuit board then drives the actuator motor in the direction necessary to make the actuator wiper voltage agree with the control module wiper voltage.