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I need to know how to disconnect a driveshaft from a front wheel drive

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Usually you need to drop the knuckle, sometimes a control arm too, then pry at the base of the driveshaft to pop it out of the trans casing. Just give it a bit of pressure to overcome the tension of the snap rings.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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How to replace a front axle on a 2002 freelander landrover


1. Remove hub centre disc and remove hub nut with wheel on ground.

2. Jack up affected side (not under lower control arm), remove wheel.

3. Remove two caliper bracket bolts and tie caliper up out of the way.

4. Disconnect outer steering joint.

5. Remove two strut-to-hub bolts and pivot hub outwards to release driveshaft outer drive flange.

6. Place oil catch can under car and carefully pry out inner driveshaft joint and remove driveshaft.

7. Reverse steps with new driveshaft. Remember to replace any lost gearbox / transfer box oil.

Apr 23, 2015 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

I reconnected wires and with 4 wheels off ground the driveshaft turns but 4 wheel drive on front dif still doesn't work


What kind of car or truck? If both driveshafts turn, then you have a bad front differential. Remember there are 2 driveshafts on 4 wheel drive vehicles. Also do you ahve locking hubs?

Feb 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Need to know steps involved to disconnect transfer case from transmission so that I can still drive my Yukon


best bet is junkyard replacement. worst case. remove tc and get a longer driveshaft to the rear end

Jun 29, 2017 | 2001 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Front wheels not turning in 4wheel drive 1996 dodge dakota


Check and make sure the transfer case is adjusted right If the front end was broke you would know it. Jack up one front wheel and put it in 4wheel drive but not lock and see if the front drive shaft turns if it doesn't you need to adjust linkage or if it's electric make sure the signal is getting to the transfer case. If it only locks front and rear jack up one rear wheel also and do the check. Most people with 4 wheel drive don't know they have two wheel drive One in the rear and one in the front unless you ordered a locking dif from the factory they don't come this way. Then you would have 3 wheel drive

Dec 02, 2011 | 1996 Dodge Dakota

3 Answers

Is there a drive shaft


no, there is no "drive shaft" on a 94 oldsmobile. It is front wheel drive. you have a CV shaft from trans to left front wheel and a separate CV shaft from trans to right front wheel.

Jan 14, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

3 Answers

4wheel drive wont engage


First, start checking the fuses an there is also an electrial activaced switch at the transmission or transfer case that may be bad.

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle. Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


Keep us updated.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.


it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

5 Answers

I need towing a firebird 500 miles, how can i do


If towing that far of a distance place the front wheels on a tow dolley and pull it from the front with the car in nuetral. That is entriley to far to be pull from the rear will mess up the steering linkages.

Oct 03, 2009 | 1996 Pontiac Firebird

1 Answer

Front driveshaft...


yes you just won't have 4 wheel drive

Jan 12, 2009 | 1998 Ford Explorer

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