Question about 2003 Kia Optima
I have this same problem but both my driver and passenger side doors are not stuck shut. I called Kia and they were not helpful AT ALL. They said they had not heard of this before which is a blantent lie. I then found out about the government agency that issues recalls and they have an online form that anyone can fill out to instigate a recall. Based on the number of posts that I have seen not only on this website but others I think it warrants a recall. This is a huge safety issue and they need to fix it. Please anyone having this problem file a claim, here is the website: www.safercar.gov.
Posted on Feb 09, 2010
We have a 04 Kia Optima what seems like the same problem, the drivers door worked fine unless it had been locked, once locked it wouldn't reopen for days. After fighting to reopen the door, I saw the striker (located in the door jam, u-shaped piece) had more wear than normal, I adjusted it up with a prybar and haven't had a single problem since then.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
I have an 03 optima, the auto door lock would snap shut from inside or out. Had to crawl my 230# *** through the passenger side. I stuck a wedge at the top of the door panel where the window slides with the window down to provide a little exta space to look into the door. With a metal rod, about 3 times the diameter of a coat hangar, I pushed/pulled around on the door linkage near the latch. I finally got it open, pushing seemed to work better than pulling. I was able to do this 3 or 4 times but can't really put my finger on the one part that makes it open. Just keep poking arouind and pulling the handle until it opens. Once you get the door open take the door panel off. There are a couple of hidden screws. 2 one the rear of the door covered by little round caps, pop those off. 1 in the door handle cup, under a little rubber piece and 1 at the door pull/lock cup under a cap. You want to replace the door latch assembly. It cost $68 from Kia. With the window rolled up, remove the latch assembly, disconnect attach rods and 3 screws on the door jam side of the door. I also removed the lock actuator, 2 nuts on the door panel side. Install in reverse order. It's a little tight but the whole process took less than 2 hours.
My old latch assembly looked fine, and thought it could be the lock actuator but after reading some blogs, it sounded more like the latch. I guess they kinda wear out and start to bind.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
This is a problem with the door latch itself,there are 2 parts in it
that just miss each other when opening. As the drivers door is opened
more than any other this one wears the fastest.
It wears to the point wear those 2 parts hit each other prventing you from opening the door.
The latch needs to be replaced.
It costs about 55.00 or 56.00 when last checked.
You will be asked for the first or last 6 didgits of your vin when you go to buy it.
Posted on Oct 01, 2012
This is a solution but no one really knows what happened. The glass company that replaced the glass came over to the house and decided to see if he could open the door with a slim jim type tool. After trying that with no luck he took off the plastic trim behind the inside door handle(one screw and this trim will slide off), after doing that he used the handle to try and open the door seeing if any of the operating levers were disconnected or if there was any visible damage. The door opened with no problem and the electric locks did not cycle as before. We then took off the inner door panel and checked all the electrical plugs to make sure they were all seated and they were. I did take out the piece of styrofoam that is glued to the door panel as I really don't see a purpose for it. I realigned the window as it had a tight spot about midway up,reinstalled the door panel, checked the locks with both the pushbutton key and the door switch and, knock on wood, have had no more problems. The only thing we can see might have happened is the main electrical plug which controls the locks, windows, etc. might have been put in a bind when originally putting the door panel back on. Sorry I could not be more definitive on the problem solution but the door is working.
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
This is not really a solution, but I did have a similar problem after somebody broke my passenger side glass. I had the auto glass company out three times to fix this and the last time they got it. The repair guy said that a piece of glass had caused a pin in the latching mechanism to bend and he bent it back....fixing the problem. So taking a close look at the latching mechanism...you might be able to fix.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
jimmy: it sounds like the drivers door unlock tamper switch or the other switch may have failed. One side can affect the other under certain circumstances. Your trunk lock also has a switch which arms and disarms the antitheft system. Try locking all the doors, make sure the hood and trunk lid are closed and then open the trunk. Leave it open open the drivers door and try to start the car.
If it's a no start. Disconnect the ground battery cable then put the ignition key in the run position in you ignition switch. Reconnect the battery and try to start the car. It should start. This usually will override the anti theft system. One issue with this will be, whether the antitheft system will remain disarmed.
Although I have never tried this before, I know that the system will not arm unless all the doors, trunk and the hood are closed.
I could suggest this to try if the car starts as I had told you pertaining to disconnecting the battery cable, I would take the switch and unbolt it from the passenger's side of the engine compartment just forward of the shock tower. Just let it sit somewhere so it doesn't get caught up in anything moving. If there is a light under the hood of your car, remove the bulb.
Let me know how you make out.
Posted on May 03, 2009
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Mar 23, 2017 | 2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
Driver door lock switch
Front passenger door lock switch
Door lock actuators in each of the doors
Door lock system fuse into the BCM (BCM D 25A fuse)
Door Lock Operation
When the BCM detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the LOCK position, it switches the door lock actuator lock control circuit to voltage. Since the lock actuator unlock control circuits are at ground potential within the BCM, the door lock actuator motors transition to the Lock position.
Driver Door Unlock Operation
When the BCM detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the UNLOCK position, it switches the driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit to voltage. Since the door lock actuator lock control circuit is at ground potential within the BCM, the LF door lock actuator motor transitions to the Unlock position.
The driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit is a dedicated control circuit used only for the driver door lock actuator motor. This is done so that the driver door may be unlocked by itself using a keyless entry transmitter or an automatic door unlock function (if programmed).
Passenger Door Unlock Operation
When the BCM detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the UNLOCK position, it switches the door lock actuator unlock control circuits to voltage. Since the door lock actuator lock control circuit is at ground potential within the BCM, the passenger door lock actuator motors transition to the Unlock position.
The door lock actuator unlock control circuits are dedicated control circuits used only for the passenger door lock actuator motors. This is done so that the driver door may be unlocked seperate from the passenger doors using a keyless entry transmitter or an automatic door unlock function (if programmed). This video on testing computer controlled door locks on a Subaru , doesn't matter . test yours same way > The BCM controls your door locks .
Are all of the power door locks inoperative from both door lock switches?
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DOOR LKS fuse
Driver door lock actuator
Driver door lock switch
GMLAN serial data link
Keyless entry transmitter
Passenger door lock actuator
Passenger door lock switch
Remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR)
The DR LCK fuse supplies battery voltage to the body control module (BCM) for the power door lock system. The BCM supplies and monitors a reference voltage to the driver and passenger door lock switches through the door lock switch lock/unlock signal circuit. Each door lock switch receives ground at G300 which is also the ground for the door lock and unlock relays located in the BCM. When a door lock switch is placed in the lock position, the reference voltage is switched to ground and the BCM senses 0.0 volts on the door lock/unlock signal circuit. When a door lock switch is placed in the unlock position, the reference voltage is switched to ground through a 1.5k ohm resistor that is internal to each of the door lock switches and the BCM senses approximately 2.9 volts on the door lock/unlock signal circuit. The BCM interprets what position the activated door lock switch was placed in based on the voltage drop.
The BCM, upon receipt of a lock or unlock switch signal, will switch the appropriate door lock/unlock relay coil control circuit to ground causing the appropriate door lock/unlock relay to energize. With the relay energized, voltage is applied to the door lock actuator control circuit causing the door to either lock, or unlock depending on what command was received from the power door lock switch or remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR). When a power door lock/unlock relay is not energized, the switch contacts are normally grounded through the BCM which provides ground to the appropriate door lock actuator for the lock/unlock function being performed. The power door lock/unlock functions are performed by reversing the flow of voltage through the door lock actuator control circuits. The BCM has three internal drivers for the power door lock system. Driver door unlock, passenger door unlock and all door lock. This is done to isolate the driver door lock actuator so it can be unlocked separately from the passenger door. For additional information concerning keyless entry, refer to Keyless Entry System Description and Operation.
This is one you may want to take to dealer or some other ASE certified repair shop ! To do this right you need a Tech 2 scan tool !
Ignition ON, observe the scan tool Door Lock Switch parameter while using the driver and passenger door lock switches. The parameter should change from Idle to Lock and Unlock.
If the value does not change, refer to Door Lock Switch Malfunction.
Command the doors to LOCK and UNLOCK with the scan tool, the door lock actuators should LOCK and UNLOCK when changing between the commanded states.
If one or more doors do not LOCK or UNLOCK, refer to Door Lock Malfunction.
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