Re: how to fit a clutch master cylinder for c220 cdi
Remove the three 13mm nuts holding the pedal bracket to the bulkhead, this will give you more room to work but just as it's free to move about a bit. Undo the two 10mm nuts holding the cylinder to the pedal assy and the pipe union at the bottom of the cylinder. Pry off the clutch hose at the fluid reservoir. Release the circlip on the end of the cylinder rod on the pedal.
When you put the new one in feed the hose through first with a piece of wire so you can locate it at the fluid reservoir, loosley connect the union at the bottom of the cly, and pop the end of the cyl rod into place and replace the circlip. now try to relocate the long bolts into the cylinder body, it's a fiddle but can be done. Use a 3/8 drive to undo and re-do the 10 mm nuts as a smaller one seems better but doesn't have the reach. The rest is just common sense.
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Did you replace the master or slave cylinder?
If you replaced the clutch master cylinder, make sure you bench bleed it before you install it. Bench bleed it by getting a "bleed kit" (plastic fittings that screw into the hole where the hydraulic line connects to it, and a couple of hoses) secure the master cylinder in a vise (don't crush it, just hold it firmly), insert the plastic fitting and attach a hose. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid, then route the hose back into the fluid within the reservoir. insert a rod into the end of the master cylinder where the brake rod goes, then slowly push in and out until you don't see any more bubbles.
Then remove the plastic fitting and quickly install. Make sure to keep some rags handy to put under the master cylinder as it will leak a little while you're trying to get it installed. Keep in mind that brake fluid can ruin your paint, so wipe any off immediately.
If you replaced the slave cylinder and it's not bleeding, you can connect a long vacuum line to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and hold it in the master cylinder fluid reservoir. have someone pump the clutch slowly until all of the bubbles are gone, then bleed it the "old-school" way, by opening and closing the bleed valve while someone pumps for you.
Hope this helps
It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange. The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder. Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.
remove line from the side of clutch master cylinder two bolts or nuts on firewall inside vehicle is a pin on the upper side of clutch remove and pull old unit out bench bleed new master by filling and pressing in on the piston of the master cylinder. if you dont have a hose fitting dont bench bleed bleed it in vehicle( this method takes longer) install back in vehicle and hook it all back up torque bolts to 25 ft lbs then bleed the slve cylinder from under vehicle near back of motor just like bleeding brakes pump up hold and release the line pressure by opening valve on slave cylinder.
Clutch Master Cylinder
The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
A hydraulically operated clutch.
Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
Disconnect the tubes.
Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
Bench bleed the cylinder.
If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder
Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL BECAUSE IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU HAVE TO GO INSIDE THE VECHICLE AND REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE UNDER THE DASH PANEL.YOU HAVE TO UNCLIP AND SLIDE OUT PIN SECURING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL.AND YOU WILL HAVE TO UNSCREW THE MOUNTING BOLTS AND DETACH THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE FIRE WALL.YOU WILL NEED HAYNES MANUAL.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OTHER THINGS BEFORE DOING THE JOB.YOU NEED FLARE OR INLINE WRENCH ALSO.
crawl up under the dashboard & look where the clutch pedal rod goes through the firewall. look for traces of brake fluid at the rubber boot of the rod. a clutch master cylinder normally will leak to the inside of the vehicle & down the firewall when it fails. Replace as required & bleed clutch system using the bleeder valve that should be on the slave asy.
to removal clutch cylinder first remove the pin which holding cylinder and pedal it under just follow the pedal,then open the bonnet have look where fitted clutch cylinder loose the pipe just 10mm spanner then remove to nut which is 12mm spanner then it is out. if you want to put new kit use to hold cylinder with vise then remove dust cover then remove carlip then just remove old. to put the new kit clean first check also inside the cylinder if there any sine scratches if not use some brake oil put some in the cylinder before you put the new kit then fixed and plead to take air in the system.