Question about 1992 BMW 5 Series

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My brake pedal is hard as a rock and only one wheel getting brake fluid to the brakes

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Locked up caliper piston is the problem

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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2 Answers

Brake lines probably broke. brakes stopped working suddenly.


There are many things other than brake lines that can cause braking loss. Investigation will reveal the issue. First, check fluid level in the Master Cylinder. If the level is normal, you don't have any broken lines/leaks. If the fluid is full and you have no brake pedal/braking power, chances are the Master Cylinder itself has failed. There are o-rings internal to the M/C that can fail, and when this happens, you will lose pressure to wheel cylinders/calipers and, as a result, lose your brakes.

If the fluid has leaked out, then you need to find out fro where. This is not too difficult normally. Fill the M/C with fluid and have someone press the brake pedal while observing the underside of the vehicle. You should see fluid dripping from somewhere, often near one of the wheels. You can have a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake hose, or metal brake line. Once you determine what part has failed, you can purchase and replace the defective part. Brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and hoses are fairly simple to replace. Brake lines are more difficult, as they require shaping, cutting, and the creation of couplings. After repairs are done, the brake system must be refilled and all air bled from the system or braking will not be satisfactory.

Feb 16, 2016 | 1999 Buick Regal

2 Answers

How to bleed brakes


Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.



To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.



You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.



1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).



2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.



3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.



get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.



4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.



5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.



Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-1.jpeg

Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-3.jpeg

Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.








A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.









bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-10.jpeg



Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-15.jpeg



Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-21.jpeg

Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal hard


Hi P, The most usual cause of the brake pedal action becoming hard is a defective return seal in the brake master cylinder. When the brakes are depressed fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinders, activating the brake pads and shoes. After a few operations of the braking system the fluid fails to return to the master cylinder and with each further action the brakes become tighter. After the vehicle stands for some time the pressure gradually releases and frees the brakes. Have the brake master cylinder checked. It's good policy to replace the brake fluid once or twice a year as part of the major service. Regards John

Nov 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 2000 cadillac catera has no brakes but pedal is rock hard and i get fluid out at the wheels


sound like a seized caliper, take just the tires off, have someone push the brake pedal while you try to turn the rotor, if you can turn it the caliper is sezied and not engaging the rotor

Jan 15, 2011 | 2000 Cadillac Catera

1 Answer

Brakes went out - Brake light on


check the fluid level in the master cylinder, drivers side firewall, the warning light indicates either low fluid level or handbrake application, in your case with low brake pedal i would say you have a line or component (i.e. wheel cylinder, caliper, line, flex line, etc) leaking. hope this will help you. good luck

Feb 28, 2010 | 1993 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Air in brake lines


If it's really air in the lines it will take two people to bleed it out, and if you're not careful you can make the problem even worse. You will need a bucket, a rag, and a small wrench (usually 3/8 or 7/16, and a box wrench works best). The lucky person needs to pump the brake pedal several times until the brakes are rock hard. Then the unlucky person needs to open the small bleeder valve of the back of a wheel (near where the brake line enters the wheel) and let the combination of air and brake fluid spray out - hopefully into the bucket. Once the pedal hits the floor, tighten the valve. Repeat this process two or three times on each wheel, or until the flow is all fluid - no air, making sure that the bleeder valve is retightened each time before the brake pedal is released. If the pedal is released with the valve open, air will be sucked into brake system, making the problem even worse. Oh yeah, the rag is for the brake fluid that misses the bucket and ends up all over the pavement and the guy working the bleeder valves.

Dec 08, 2009 | 1982 Ford F 150

4 Answers

No brakes on F600


when bleeding did the calipers move at all? If they are frozen due to corrosion no amount of pressure will move them. The replacement master cylinder may be bad out of the box especially if its a rebuild. I would suggest a 1 man bleeder as it will eliminate pumping that can churn bubbles into the system.

Aug 18, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

3 Answers

Brakes


bad power booster

Jul 13, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.


They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

May 27, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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