Question about 2002 GMC Sierra

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I hit a deer and the body shop replaced the condenser and when they charged the system it leaks around the orifice where they put the refridgerant in. do you charge this system on the low or high side, because there seems to be only a high orifice to fill from.

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You don't charge a depleted system

You need the have the knowledge and
equipment to repair the leaks,pull a
vacuum and recharge

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

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A/c clutch will not engage after replacing radiator and fan 4.7 03 durango


was air con working before radiator swap out

is the air con fan plugged in

as above no gas in a/ c system clutch wont work

3751bc4a-cf88-4da9-9b4a-71186b668f80.jpg

Oct 26, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

A/C coolant from condenser


First of all, refridgerant is a gas. All AC systems leak water due to the condensation from the ice cold pipes meeting the hot ambient temps. Look around at most other cars in parking lots, anyone using they're ac will have a puddle. Get other opinions before you act.

Aug 08, 2012 | 2002 Pontiac Montana

1 Answer

AC blowing hot, low side pressure very high, line is freezing and compressor is running


The only place that it could be blocked at is at your orifice tube in one of the lines. In order to change it you will need to drain the system replace the orifice then recharge it. Make sure you put new o-ring/gasket and oil them. your local parts dealer (napa, autozone) should be able to tell you about where to start looking and describe it better.Also i highly recomend you take it to a shop to have it charged because they will run a leak check before they charge it.

Aug 04, 2012 | 2007 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

Not sure what model but its a 1993 buick thee air conditioner needs to be fixed can it be fixed inexpensive?? i think the jerks at firestone jerked with it and made it quit working do you think my local...


The AC not working wil not affect the engine coolant temperature. The engine cooling system is a seperate system fromthe AC system on your vehicle.
The AC could simply have a small leak and the refridgerant has leaked down and needs to be replaced. If that is the case you can have what is called a "pep charge" performed and you will have AC working again until it leaks back down. Before you ask, I can't tell you how long that will take because it depends on the sevarity of the leak(s). Might be a couple of days might be a year. That should generally be about $40 or less depending on how much refridgerant they need to add to your system.
Of course you may have AC components that have failed such as a compressor. This will be an expensive repair. There is no way around this. Usually when a compressor goes out, you need to replace the compressor, receiver/dryer, orifice tube, all of the refridgerant, and have the system flushed. This is costly.
Many shops have proper AC equipment and properly trained techs that can peform an AC diagnostics for $40-$50 (in my area) that takes about an hour or so. This will tell you if the refridgerant is low, indicating a leak, or if your compressor or other component is not functioning properly.
At my shop when a customer pays for the Diagnostic and we find that the system is low on refridgerant. We offer to re-fill the system (customer has to pay additional for the refridgerant of course but no more labor) and add a special UV dye to the system. Then I ask that the customer drive the vehicle for a couple of days with the AC running then return. I can then use a special UV light and glasses to find the leak point on the AC system by locating the point where the dye leaked out. This is all included in the initial diagnostic charge and does not take too much time.
From there we make the decision of whether to fix the leak or not. Often times the leak is repaired for minimal cost as the leak ponts are commonly very inexpensive parts.

Oct 03, 2010 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

I need to no how to put an orifice tube in my 1991 chevy cavilier


Its not that cut and dried, First you will need the refrigerent recovered, then take the old one out. It should be in the small line entering the evaporator. Take it out, if there is metal shavings on it, then you need to replace the compressor and flush the condenser, or replace the condenser. the short end (looking at the o-ring) goes in towards the rear of the car. Tne you will need sit evacuated with a vacuum pump and recharged with the proper amount of refridgerent and oil. Its really a job for a A/C shop. Its not a job for Backyard Bob.

Sep 07, 2010 | 1991 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

We are trying to either get a diagram for an 2002 chevy impalas ac system,or the location of the orifice tube.please help.


It is located inside the condensor tube running to the evaporator.

Here are the removal/installation instructions as per alldata:

TOOLS REQUIRED

J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remover

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
-Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Remove the air cleaner assembly.
-Remove the vacuum brake booster.
-Remove the condenser tube.
-Use J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion orifice tube. IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the porous plastic inlet filter of the expansion orifice tube.
-Inspect the expansion orifice tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated:
-Broken plastic frame (1); replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) damaged or plugged with fine gritty material; replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; remove the coating with low pressure shop air ONLY and reuse if the filter is cleaned satisfactorily. Do NOT reuse the O-ring seals (2).

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Lubricate the new O-ring seals (2) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
If you reuse the orifice tube, install new O-ring seals (2).
Carefully grasp the edge of the expansion orifice tube (1) without touching the inlet filter (3) and insert the expansion tube into the condenser tube until fully seated.
-Install the condenser tube.
-Install the vacuum brake booster.
-Install the air cleaner assembly.
-Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A.

Aug 20, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

3 Answers

I put in three cans of refridgerant and the ac didn't get cool. Did I put enough in or do I have a leak?


You may have a stopped up orifice tube,feel of the large ac line going into the firewall,see if it is cold,if it is,then the inside door for the temp is not working,but if the ac line is not cold,remove the freon and remove the orifice tube and clean it,or replace it,then charge the system back up.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

Jun 11, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Lumina

3 Answers

Leaking ac


Most probable leak place would be the condensor or the lines.

Jun 22, 2009 | 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

2 Answers

''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it''


You need to replace the condensor, then take it to a shop to have the a/c system evacuated and recharged to purge moisture because the system was opened. That will cost around $150. You do not need to replace the receiver/dryer/suction accumulator even though they will tell you that you do.
go to car-part.com to find prices of condensor from salvage yards. Page with asterisk on it is the lowest priced part.

--------------------------------------
The Refrigerant Cycle
During stabilized conditions (air conditioning system shutdown), the refrigerant is in a vaporized state and pressures are equal throughout the system. When the A/C compressor (19703) is in operation it increases pressure on the refrigerant vapor, raising its temperature. The high-pressure and high-temperature vapor is then released into the top of the A/C condenser core (19712).
The A/C condenser core, being close to ambient temperature, causes the refrigerant vapor to condense into a liquid when heat is removed from the refrigerant by ambient air passing over the fins and tubing. The now liquid refrigerant, still at high pressure, exits from the bottom of the A/C condenser core and enters the inlet side of the A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990).
The A/C evaporator core orifice is the restriction in the refrigerant system that creates the high pressure buildup in the A/C evaporator core (19860) and separates the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the liquid refrigerant leaves this restriction, its pressure and boiling point are reduced.
The liquid refrigerant is now at its lowest pressure and temperature. As it passes through the A/C evaporator core, it absorbs heat from the passenger compartment airflow passing over the plate/fin sections of the A/C evaporator core. This addition of heat causes the refrigerant to boil (convert to gas). The now cooler passenger compartment air can no longer support the same humidity level of the warmer air and this excess moisture condenses on the exterior of the evaporator coils and fins and drains outside the vehicle.
The suction accumulator/drier (19C836) is designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant and to prevent any liquid refrigerant that may not have been vaporized in the A/C evaporator core from reaching the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor is designed to pump refrigerant vapor only, as liquid refrigerant will not compress and can damage the A/C compressor.
The refrigerant cycle is now repeated with the A/C compressor again increasing the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant.
The A/C cycling switch (19E561) interrupts compressor operation before the external temperature of the A/C evaporator core gets low enough to cause the condensed water vapor (excess humidity) to turn to ice. It does this by monitoring low side line pressure. It is known that a refrigerant pressure of approximately 210 kPa (30 psi) will yield an operating temperature of 0°C (32°F). The A/C cycling switch controls system operation in an effort to maintain this temperature.
The high side line pressure is also monitored so that A/C compressor operation can be interrupted if system pressure becomes too high.
The A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644) will open and vent refrigerant to relieve unusually high system pressure.
Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System 75cc8eb.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 19E762 A/C charge valve port (low side) 2 19E561 A/C cycling switch 3 19C836 Suction accumulator/drier 4 19703 A/C compressor 5 19D644 A/C compressor pressure relief valve 6 19D594 A/C pressure cut-off switch 7 19E762 A/C charge valve port (high side) 8 19712 A/C condenser core 9 19D990 A/C evaporator core orifice 10 19860 A/C evaporator core 11 — Low pressure vapor 12 — High pressure vapor 13 — Low pressure liquid 14 — High pressure liquid

  1. Connect the R-134a A/C Refrigerant Center to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves.
  2. Evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) (vacuum) and as close as 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the vacuum pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
  3. Turn off the evacuation pump. Observe the low-pressure gauge for five minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held. If vacuum is not held for five minutes, leak-test the system, service the leaks, and evacuate the system again.
  4. Correctly oil match the system to verify that the correct amount of refrigerant oil is present in the system. For additional information, refer to Refrigerant Oil Adding in this section.
  5. Charge the system with the specified weight of refrigerant and refrigerant oil.
  6. When no more refrigerant is being drawn into the system, start the engine and select MAX A/C operation. Set the blower motor speed to maximum and allow the remaining refrigerant to be drawn into the system. Continue to add refrigerant into the system until the specified weight of R-134a has been added. Close the charging cylinder valve and allow the system to pull any remaining refrigerant from the hose. When the suction pressure drops to approximately 207 kPa (30 psi), close the charging hose valve.

May 14, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

1998 Jeep cherokee Tranny leak


The best thing to do is to jack it up(use jack stands) so you can get under it, start it up and look for the leak, from the way it sounds it should not be hard to find, look close at the trans. cooling lines they run from trans. to radiator, and also where the dip stick tube goes into the trans. And last the oil pan it could have a hole in it or the gasget is bad.

Apr 11, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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