My clutch function completely died on me, only to reappear the next day. On the day, I pump the clutch pedal every now and again over a period of more than 2 hours, eventually had to get a tow truck in to get the car back home. I wierd thing is the next day the problem had disappeared and the clutch was fully functional again. What could have caused this to happen as I'm certain it would happen again. gmt0123

If the clutch slave cylinder fails, the pedal will drop to the ground and will not come back up. When the clutch does not disengage from the flywheel, it is usually the result of a leak or air in the hydraulic system or a poorly adjusted connection.
If you suspect a leak, regularly check the fluid levels in the reservoir. If you don't notice the fluid level drop within a certain amount of time, check for leaks or loose connections.
In some cases, a bad seal in the clutch slave cylinder can leak fluid and allow air to enter the line, resulting in a drop in pressure. Bleeding or replacing the clutch slave cylinder often restores proper operation.

You have air getting into the clutch hydraulic system, this is due to a faulty slave or master cylinder or both.

there is a bleeding nipple next to the clutch housing you will need someone to pump the clutch. do this on ramps as you will need the engine running. pump the pedal a few times then hold down the pedal and then lock down the nipple. then check the pressure if still not right do it again. make sure the brake fluid is up at same time as it uses this for the clutch. can take a few times after the clutch has been changed. they don't fix by them self...

I am going to assume that you checked all your linkage to insure all is well. So now I am going to take a stab in the dark and GUESS that when you relaced the disk and pressure plate you must have inadvertently installed the disk backwards. This would have positioned the springs against the flywheel still allowing enough disk, flywheel, and pressure plate contact to function for a short period of time.

A clutch pedal takes MUCH more travel to function correctly, when compared to a brake system...

A clutch needs to be replaced (maybe) when it SLIPS, Chatters, Or fails to release...

Other than that, the clutch will need to be adjusted to allow for total release of the relese bearing when pedal is released, and full disengaugement when pedal is depressed....Have a mechanic look at the adjustement, as proper adjustment gives longer clutch life. This is a periodic adjustment item.

Its bascily the same princable as bleeding brakes However you need to look for leaks in differant stops . With the clutch you the resivior that you fill with fluid then the master cylinder witch is attached to the brake pedal with a rod to push it in when you apply the brakes and then the slave cylinder that is located near the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel on the bell houseing . The slave cylinder it where the bleeder is located and has a fitting much like a calipar or wheel cylinder that needs to be opened and closed during the bleeding process to let the air out open pedal depressed and closed when the pedal is released so the air can't get back in the system . Air is compresable fluid is not . Look for fluid leaks inside the cab of the vehicle near the master cylinder because if fluid can get out then air is getting in the system and you will never be able to bleed it completly You will need a clear peice of plastic tubeing that fits over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it already have some one push down on the clutch pedal while you have a wrench on the bleeder to open and close it as required when the air bubbles stop comeing out the end of the tubeing that is in the bottle with the fluid you are done bleeding the system Good luck its not that hard you just need two people to do it and make sure the bleeder is closed when the pedal is travaling up or you will **** air back into the system

you still have air in hydraulic system you need to bleed clutch again can take few trys

if u know u have every thing hooked back up the way u took it apart then i would rebleed the system that should do it.

A clutch issue youtend to have more of an engagement problem with 1st and reverse gear for a small time period before you notice other gears.You want to check the clutch hydrolic system for any leaks(clutch slave at transmission,clutch master,which you look for leakage on interior above clutch pedal)and at fluid resevoir.you also want to double check condition of trans fluid. strongly recommend using only HONDA BRAND MANUAL TRANS. FLUID when doing maintinance,fluid should be replaced every 30k on this car.The Honda brand fluid is like night and day on these cars,it WILL make a difference in shifting!!TRust Me on this point! Sorry now back to your main clutch issue,when driveing and you go to shift gears and normally notice grinding,with clutch pedal in shft out of gear and before engageing it into next gear do a double pump of clutch pedal then see if when continuing to next gear if it engagees smoother.if so you know you have without a dout a clutch pressure plate/disc problem. I can tell you that in twenty years the only manual transmissions themselves that ever had problems were due to outside influences(gear oil in transmission,improper driveing,etc.)let me know what you find and we can go from there..JOEL

ALL Grounds Need to Be Checks on this Including BATTERY They MUST Be CLEAN this Sounds Like a Poor Ground Problem.