Had no spark cleaned one of the ignitor chip plugs now only runs on one side pas-side help
Ok so it was a green
corrosion on the connectors and it did not run at all before I cleaned it any other connectors I should be cleaning here??? I don't know why but only the passenger side of the engine is running no other cylinders are igniting is it possible for it to run only one side with the ignitor chip being bad would it still run half the motor????? if there is other plugs I need to clean please let me know what they are and location all the rest of the connectors where clean and making good contact at the ignitor chip it is a 1990 300zx n/a any help if you have any idea would be great
Re: had no spark cleaned one of the ignitor chip plugs...
My z is having the same problem, I had to clean all my injector connetors and one of them was bad.. while the engine is running disconnect one coil plug and see if the car remains the same or changes. if it changes then plug it back in and move on to the next. any plug removed that doesn't change the idle should be cleaned and diagnosed further
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Bad circuit board tail light asseblise connector pin to board poor connection or burned push in light bulb sockets
On my '93 Chevy PU the new ones went bad within months I repaired the original ones by soldering all connector pins to the board cleaned the sockets chipping out melted plastic been working for five years now.
Care must be taken to keep solder from preventing wire connector install while using enough that plugging it in will not break these delicate unions.
Required pulling them several times to Finnish repair successfully.
Very disappointed in replacement parts.
ok ! first things first! on the drivers side of the trans !theres a neutral saftey switch! to locate it look for the shifter cable! i rite ther disconnect it and look for corrosion ! green **** in the plug! if so replace pigtail thats wut its called ! next go to the other side of trans and lok for the other connector ! on the other side of trans ! check for the same! the connectore allways rot away!clean and lube connectors! if this helps leave comment if u need help call me !9082795716! ill walk u through it! my nme is tony
Make sure the spark plugs are not platinum or anything other than regular copper plugs. The S-series uses a "waste spark" system and will destroy platinum plugs. Regular copper NGKs that came from the factory with the car work the best.
How do you know it is a spark problem? Are you able to verify spark, fuel and compression?
I ask because the usual solution to what you are describing in your problem is replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS). The factory one is plastic and cracks. When it cracks it sends the PCM
a signal that the engine is 40F below zero. The PCM will compensate by
dumping A LOT of fuel into the engine to try and warm it up. It will
cause all kinds of starting and idling problems.
Autozone or the
dealer sells the better brass tipped one. The ECTS is located just
under and behind the upper radiator hose. You'll need to remove the air
intake tubing to see it or get to it. It has two wires going to it and
goes into a connector. Squeeze the connector at the "ears" and it will
Now is the time to check the connector for corrosion and gunk. If there is clean it out very well. If there is no gunk or corrosion continue on.
A 10MM DEEP well socket will take it out. Swap it quickly
because some coolant will come out (a couple of ounces). Hand tighten
it and snug it with the socket (not too much because it will strip
out). Connector back on (either direction it's non polar). Put the
intake back on and enjoy better starting and idling.
Look under the hood on the drivers side above the front wheel. You will see two relays. There is a 90% chance the wiring is corroded off the plug or internally in the plug. Just one wire off will not allow the pump to run. Look for green powdery dust at the connection plug at the fuel pump relay. Just check both. Disconnect the plugs.....are the terminals still in there to connect to.........or a lot of green corrosion. You may need a new relay AND a pigtail (a new plug )to wire in that fits that relay. The next area to check is the wiring along the frame to the pump. Pull at the wires at all connectors heading to the tank.......I'll bet you will find more green corrosion. If you find corrosion here at only one or two wires out of a multiple wire connector.......just wire in jumpers around that connector for that one or two wires. Ford wiring is the worst for corrosion at the connectors!.
There are a couple of known things to check.
Check connector C134 it is under the hood right below the driver's side headlamp.It is a 42 pin connector with either an 8mm or 10mm bolt in center of it.Take it apart and inspect it for moisture and corrosion.Clean it and add some dielectric grease to the terminals then reconnect it.
Also open drivers door and remove the drivers side lower kick panel.
You will see a 20 pin connector there and also the central junction box.Disconncet the 20 pin connector and the 2 connectors to the central junction box and inspect them for moisture and or corrosion and clean them and add dielectric grease and see if this fixes you problem.
kind of funny that they said you should replace the plug wires when checking them to see if they need to be replaced is a major part of a tune up. How much did they charge for a tune-up? What was included?
In any event this is how you check your plug wires. Make sure you do this one at a time to prevent mixing them up, which is essential for proper engine operation. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. You can use a special spark plug removal tool available for a low cost at most auto parts counters or you can grasp the rubber boot and twist it gently while pulling the wire free. Be sure the pull on the boot and not on the wire or you'll likely pull the wire out of the boot neccessatating new wires. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which is a white crusty powder (don't mistake the white dielectric grease used on spark plug wire boots for corrosion). Using an insulated screwdriver, insert it into the boot so it contacts the metal connector inside and have and assisstant turn the engine over while you hold the metal part of the screwdriver about an inch or less (but not touching) from a good ground like an unpainted screw or a piece of metal. Look for a strong, even spark to be generated between the blade and ground and steady intervals. Turn the engine off and push the plug wire and boot back onto the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the spark plug. If it doesn't, remove the spark plug wire and a pair of pliers to crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. Clean built-up dirt and grease along the entire length of the wire with a clean cloth while inspecting the wire for burnt areas, cracks, and other obvious damage. Bend the wire in several places to make sure that the inside conductor hasn't hardened. Repeat the process for each wire. If new spark plug wires are neccessary, buy a complete set, pre-cut for your particular engine. Terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order. Coat the metal conductor with dielectric grease that will come with the pack of wires. Make sure the terminals are securely seated in the coil pack and on the spark plugs. Be sure that the length of the wire you replace is equal to the new wire. If all seems well the wires wait until dark and start the vehicle. Open the hood and look along the length of the plugs and around the coil packs that the plugs connect to for arcing(sparks).
If you need to run a diagnostic post me back
before you replace the computer have the crank sensor replace it is located between transmission and engine by the driver's side on top of transmission
most likelly your computer is ok
the distribuitor has nothign to do with spark on this cars