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Are the ends adjustable? We need to turn the attachment point/bracket 90 degrees on the ball-socket end. Is this possible, or are they fixed permanently?

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  • Volkswagen Master
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Sorry, but that question has me totally confused.
I keep trying to picture tie rod ends, ball joints, etc., and I have no idea what you are asking for?

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a 2012 Mazda 2. Sitting on the road and turning the steering wheel 90 degrees right and left it makes a clunking noise. Put up on a hoist and doing the same it makes no noise. What is it.


the noise is generated by the weight on the points that are turning
the hoist you should be using is a 4 post hoist that the car drives on and the wheels are still on the hoist
any hoist that leaves the wheels dangling in the air will not be suitable to find the fault
most likely a steering ball joint end , suspension ball joint or failed suspension rubber mount

Mar 18, 2017 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I change the serpentine belt on a 2003 Saturn L300 V6? There seems to a motor mount that would need to be disconnected before the belt can be removed. Maybe I'm missing something.


You will have to remove the motor mount and the bracket it is attached to on the front of the engine. Make sure to place an adjustable jack under the oil pan with something softer like wood between the jack and engine. Also removing the left front wheel and inner plastic shroud cover the crank pulley will help a lot. You can raise end lower the engine about 10 inches using the adjustable jack to allow for more access in replacing the belt. The v6 engine uses 12 point bolts which require the use of special sockets. Regular sockets won't fit and most generic 12 points will strip these bolts. You should be able to find the special sockets at any automotive store or Sears. Hope this helps.

Sep 09, 2011 | 2003 Saturn L-Series

1 Answer

My Front left tire is tilted inward and underneath the truck i found one of the support bars that run's across is broken off on the left side. I looked around the wheel and found that no metal was bent so...


General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Jun 27, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

How do i fix excessive steering play?


tie rod ends, ball joints, and there is an adjustment on the steering box

Sep 04, 2010 | 1990 Ford F250

1 Answer

Need to know the size of the socket needed to remove the front hubs on a dodge ram 3500 1 ton 4 x 4 with cummins engine?


Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with wrench Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
Remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle arm, using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle .
Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C3894-A Ball Joint Stud .----------------------- The procedure is :-- Do NOT pound on the outside of the hub. First you will need a 5 inch long half inch drive socket extension. Start the 4 hub bolts about half way, then witha helper hold the extension between one of the 4 bolts and the axle housing then have the helper turn the steering wheel to push on the bolt and hub. If it is really rusted in you might have to start the truck to get more pressure on it while turning. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 11, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I am trying to change a headlight. I can't can not


The headlight assembly (1993 Grand Caravan) is held in place with three plastic "wing nuts" that rotate on the ball-end (front end) of the adjusting screws. One "adjusting screw" (the one on the bottom, inboard side) is not for adjusting, just for mounting. The other two adjusting screws take a torx T15 in the front end of the screw.
Removing the headlight assembly is somewhat of a trick - it seems like it takes a special tool to reach the "wing nut" and turm it 1/4 turn (90 degrees) CLOCKWISE (so the "wings" are vertical). When all three of these mounting "wing nuts" have the wings vertical, the headlight assembly just pulls forward and off these mounting nuts. Place the new assembly back over the "nuts", turn the 3 "wing nuts" another quarter turn, and the new unit is mounted. Probably not even a need to re-adjust the headlights, but you should check.
The PROBLEM, is that it appears to take a special tool to reach and turn these wing nuts without breaking them (yes, the old ones get brittle). I tried a socket (did not work), and then long needle-nose pliers (broke one wing nut), then a 1/2" open-end wrench (which at least worked). However, pushing the new assembly back over the wing nuts, I broke another wing nut. So, I broke 2 of the 6, and one was broken when I started.
Now I need to find replacements for these "wing nuts" ... any ideas where to get them?
Of course I can use some washers, some nuts to fit the fine-threaded adjustment screw, and some sort of bushing (maybe cut a short piece of rubber tubing to fit over the adjustment screw). Place double nuts (second nut to lock the first in place) and a washer, then the bushing onto the adjusting screw, then the headlamp assembly onto the bushing, then add another washer, and two more nuts (not too tight) to lock it onto the adjusting screw (which must still be free to rotate). Repeat for each of the 6 mounting points. I have not tried this yet, but ... it should work.

Fabricate a tool to turn the "wing nuts" using a piece of 3/8 inch ID tubing which you file or cut 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch notches on each side of a diameter line.

Apr 22, 2010 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Where is the brake switch located on a 2000 chrysler grand voyager?


under dash follow brake pedal up to where steering column meet thats ur brake switch

Mar 05, 2010 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

My transmission will not go into park. how do i fix that


  1. Install the shift cable end of the shift cable to the transmission shift lever stud ball.
  2. Install the retainer to the shift cable and transmission bracket.
  3. Feed the shift cable through the floor panel.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Adjustment Procedure
    1. Ensure that the shift cable is not restricted.
    2. Place the shift lever into the NEUTRAL position.
    3. Position the shift cable to assume a natural routing. The shift cable must be free to move 20.0 mm (0.80 inch) axially during the adjustment under adjustment spring loads.
    4. Pull the cable end completely forward and release it. (When the cable is pulled completely forward and released, the adjustment spring will position the cable to its most rearward position.) Notice: Do not pull the shift lever ball stud forward of the transmission shift lever ball stud during installation. Pulling the shift cable end forward of the transmission shift lever ball stud before installing the shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud will result in a poor adjustment.
    5. Connect the end of the shift cable to the transmission shift lever stud ball.
    6. Press the locking tab IN in order to secure the shift cable to the transmission bracket.

Oct 13, 2009 | 1984 AMC American Motors Eagle

1 Answer

Need to know how to change an alternator on a 96 ford contour without taking the motor apart


If you have one of the 4 cylinder models, You really just have to remove the air intake assembly to get at the alternator from the top and remove the wires going to it, then you have to drain the oil and remove the oil filter to get at the drivebelt from the side (through the wheel well) and loosen it to the point you can get the alternator out.

Under the coil pack is the maxifuse with red coverings on either end and a black plasctic center. A bad maxifuse will have the same symptoms as a bad alternator...but cheaper to fix! Just ohm it with a volt meter.

To remove an alternator from a 1996 Ford Contour 6 cylinder, you have to remove the pass. side tire and splash-shield. Remove the neg. cable from the battery and the belt with a 3/8ths drive ratchet.

At this point take heart, you will have to reach behind the alternator and remove the lower retaining mount bolt with a 13mm socket.

You can help it at first by twisting the end of the bolt with your thumb and index finger...just twist as you turning the ratchet. It would prove advantegeous to have a 3/8ths ratchet with swivel head here. Although, you will only be able to turn the ratchet one "click" at a time.

Yes, there is absolutely no room for reaching your entire hand back there. After nearly an hour working the first bolt out, you will have to start the upper second bolt. This is where it gets really time consuming. But, do not give up. You are doing it for free while shops DO WANT 500.00 for the job!

Now, use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 13mm socket to crack it free by reaching from the firewall (insulation is scrtchy on the hand) and attaching the ratchet/socket to the bolt head and inserting a bar from the bottom to push the end of the ratchet up.
That will crack it free. Then, swith sockets to a 1/2" socket....this size will keep the socket on the head a little more snuggly while you use your finger tips to ratchet.

Ford Engineers thought it would be hilarious to attach a 90 degree bracket with a 10mm bolt that fixes to the alternator casing and frame. Just remove the 10mm bolt that goes into the alternator from the bottom of the car.

Now the easy part. There is a sway bar drop link there in the way. You will need a 17mm open-end wrench and socket. Affix the wrench to the back side of the TOP of the link and lossen the bolt. After the link is outta the way, you can grab a crow bar or large flat head screwdriver and pry the alternator out of its bracket.

Once its down, you can turn it almost all the way around and take off the electrical connections. Here you will find 3 wire connections.

Now that the alternator is free to come out, you will have many variations of ways in which to extract it from that small space. Its just a matter of trial and error. I found it relaxing to remove it from the left hand side of the strut instead of forward the strut. Dont worry it'll come out.

As far as putting it back in....ugh. Just reverse the removal. Good luck and entire REMOVAL process will take around 3-4.5 hours.

Apr 12, 2009 | 1996 Ford Contour

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