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Hi we have a renault master mini bus , we have had the clutch master cilander replaced 4 times now and keeps going after only a few weeks,different macanics inspected the vehicle but can not find a fault, please help this is costing a fortune ?????

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  • Renault Master
  • 2,019 Answers

It would help is you had someone look at the failed master cylinder to determine what is going wrong?
If it is rust, then the problem is water, and the whole system need flushing out.
If there is wear on one side of the master cylinder, it could be the pedal rod is not centering properly, and is wearing a groove in the master cylinder.
Another possibility is that air is getting in from a different leak somewhere, and the master cylinder never was bad at all. It just seemed to fix it when it was replaced because you have to bleed it and got rid of the air in the process. The fluid will not always leak out from a leak small enough to let air in, because the fluid is so much more viscus.
Next time bleed the brakes first.
And if the master cylinder fails, it should leak out the front.
It is is not, then it is not likely bad.
And if it leaks, it should be replaced under the warranty, that should last a year at least I would assume.

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi- 1995 jeep wrangler 2.5yj- clutch grinding won't go into gear - seems full of fluid but over filled it works good for a few months -does it again- repeated -works good-maybe master slave problem ?


1995 YJ if still stock all that is ONE PART, see FSM quote below.
is the fluid dropping, day by day, week by week???
y/n?
yes, then either the slave or mc are bad.
sometimes both can fail, (rust happens inside and is progressive)
what I do , is this. (if not wanting to change out both)
1: look at the MC, if it done leak down either side of the fire wall
it might be good (dont mean the piston seals good but its not leaking, so if fluid drops , (every week say) the the MC is ok
and for sure the slave leaks.

2: so where is your slave. have you looked,? (swaps happen)
most leak and can not be detected as that leak landed on the road to work.
for sure its just 2 parts, here, you know the clutch is ok.
because it works with fluid in the system and bled.
now ILL PASTE THE FSM words out of a real factory service manual.
they are clear.
FSM words, QUOTE:
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only.
The linkage components cannot be
overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders
and connecting line are sealed units. Also
note that removal/installation procedures for
right and left hand drive models are basically
the same. Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing (Fig.
9).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This is necessary to avoid undue spillage
during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts.
Note that one nut is accessible from engine compartment
and one nut is accessible from under instrument
panel (Figs. 10 and 11).
(8) Remove clip securing clutch master cylinder
push rod to pedal and slide push rod off pedal pin.
(9) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(10) If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect
condition of bushing and replace it if worn or damaged.
(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through engine
compartment.

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Ask if the system was checked for leaks. Not just die checked but by actually hooking up gauges and watching. The system could be pulling in air ( and moisture) after being shut down. This is unlikely. But when you eliminate the obvious you have to start looking at the unlikely.

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If I read your post correctly you shelled out £5k for a gearbox?
Why!
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Take them to task on that one.
A clutch when replaced has a lifetime of the vehicle warranty, if fitted by a specialist garage.

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