Question about Ford Escort
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The cat is located just off of the exhaust manifold. You have to remove things to get out of the way. Loosen down pipe to converter and unclamp the converter and it should pull right out. Use a good penetrating oil to help loosen the down pipe bolts.
Posted on Jun 10, 2008
Stage 1 = 15Nm
Stage 2 = 40Nm
Stage 3 = Plus 90 degrees or quarter of a turn. Good tip is to mark all the bolts after initial torque setting with tip-ex , i.e. all to the front of the car. When you finish they should all point towards the timing belt.
This is also a good way to make sure you don't miss one or tighten one twice if you are distracted since it is not a torque setting. New bolts should be used by the way as they are stretch bolts. Timing of cams - remove cam cover and you will see a slot on the end of the cams. Opposite end from belt. You need to slip a piece of 5mm flat bar or a long 5mm allen key into then so that the bar rests on the face of the head. Engine should be a tdc.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
With regard to the Transmission, some Honda's have strict procedures to follow with their trany's.
I hope you never had it flushed by a Quick lube or something like that. Also the type of fluid is very special in some of them too so mixing them with regular ATF will cause problems. I worked for a Forein Car Specialist and know how important it is to use only the Honda recommended fluids in them. If the light went out you can reset the code and see if it returns, if it does you may want a reputable shop to professionaly flush your tranny and replace the oil with Honda recommended oil.
With regards to your Catalytic converter, unless you can hear it comming apart inside (bang on it and listen if it rattles) or if the car is running extremly rich (gas will ruin the cat) you may have a blocked or ruined muffler farther down the system which is slowing the flow through the cat.
I hope this helps.
Posted on May 12, 2009
cylinder bolt torque settings stage 1 15 ft pounds
stage 2 50 ft pounds
stage 3 85 ft pounds
valve clearences 0.15 - 0.20mm inlet
0.22 - 0.27mm exhaust
these are the figures i have been supplied with, you can also use
cylinder bolts stage 1 10 ft pounds
stage 2 50 ft pounds
stage 3 + 90deg.
with my exp, i would use the first guide as the degree method has a tendancy to snap head bolts, especially on older vehicles.
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: 95 ford escort transmission leak
Dont waste your time and money trying to use a transmission stop leak product, they don't work on large leaks, you say the leak is excessive in this case the you must remove the transmission to access and remove the torque converter, after you have removed the torque converter carefully inspect the torque convert imput shaft for wear and also you will need to visually inspect the transmission front pump bushing for wear also, I have seen it all to often people just replace the seal thinking it was just a seal failure, well more times than not there is a reason for seal more than just the age of the seal, excessive wear on trans pump bushing and torque converter imput shaft is usaully the cause, check and repair those as good practice during this repair unless you just like to do the repair over again for free... also check the torque converter run out, sometime when they are repaired they are welded back together somewhat crooked which will cause it to spin off of a true center, this will cause immediate damage to transmission. Check also your engines crankshaft end play for looseness this can cause wobble which will transfer to transmission causing this problem as well... do the repair thouroughly and who ever does it for you have them check all that I listed and you should get a good repair which will last without issues.... please rate my help thanks...
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
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