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Changed rear brake calipur, can not gett pressure, to break.

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Bleed the brakes

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My brakes aren't working well. when I step on the break pedal gradually goes down to the floor. At red lights I have to put it on park. I've changed the brake pads, bled them, still don't work.....


1-change brake master cylinder it has damage o rings that losses break due to its age

2-also try to check all hoses pipes for break oil leak include under car pipes that connect master cylinder to the rear wheels

3-check pressure pipes that connect master cylinder to cylinder head

regards

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I have an 2.4L Audi A6 multitronic 2007 model which is binding rear wheels. I have had the master cylynder changed, discs cahnged, both rear calipers changed, rear break pads changed and the boost also...


if you have had all them parts changed and its binding one moment then not working correct. the possible problem can be the abs unit, when you apply the brakes the abs controls the pressure. if the vale in the abs unit is faulty you can get this problem and worse. you may not even get a code as the coil is still fine is just its stuck. i would have this part checked or replaced.

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Hi I changed the master cylinder in my 1977 f 150 and found I had leaks in the rear break line. I plugged off the rear break line at the master cylinder,hoping to at least have front breaks, however I...


Hi, if you plug the port, the plunger will not be able to build pressure in the front lines as the back brake section of the master will hold the plunger back. The proportioning valve will also not let you do this, as it is trying to strike a balance between the front and rear brake pressure. I'm afraid you need to repair the rear brake lines. This is not hard work, but it does require a brake line tool for cutting and flaring the lines. You may be able to borrow the tool, or check to see how much a brake place would actually charge to replace the lines. The supplies are cheap, and the labor isn't really very long--maybe a couple hours.

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I lost nearly all break pressure while driveing my brake and ABS light turned on. So I bleed the brakes and the truck seemed to be working fine then 5 days later i again lost all break pressure with all...


does the truck have rear drum brakes on the rear? if so then the fluid is leaking out of the rear wheel cylinders. or the master cylinder is leaking fluid into the brake booster.

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I changed a weel cylinder on the drivers side and changed the breaks and the drums got fluide out of the new cylinder but the breaks will not come up when i start up the car


have you bled the brakes after you changed that wheel cylinder? if not, then that's your problem. you need 2 people to bleed the brakes, and start at rear drivers side. then rear passenger side and then drivers front wheel. make sure you have a large container of brake fluid before you start.you will find the bleeder valves on the rear wheel on the inside of rear wheel at the top of wheel, jack it up, use jackstands for safety, crawl under the car and look at the top of wheel for a small bleeder valve. have someone inside the car pump up the brake pedal until they feel the pedal come up with pressure applied.hold pressure on pedal,open bleeder valve on wheel.you will see a small ammount of fluid come out, tighten the valve back and repeat the process again until you see a steadt stream come out. when you see that move to other rear wheel and repeat that process again. after you get that one bled, move to passenger front wheel and repeat that again,remember to tell your helper to keep pressure on brakes until youtighten the bleeders,if not you're wasting time. you helper will have to pump the brakes up on each time and hold pressure on pedal until you have each bleeder tight or else it will **** air into the brake and thats the reason you'll have to bleed them,because when you replaced that wheel cylinder,you let air into the whole braking system. if this doe'nt help,please repost you question on process of bleeding brakes and fixya.com will be happy to assist.

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Can't get rear brake pistons back in to get new pads in. Tried turning anti-clockwise but very stiff.


if they are turning type try clock wise and if worst comes to worse crack open the line and then bleed them, usualy stuck calipurs mean trash in the lines and once a calipur is stuck it needs to be replaced, you can also gravity bleed the fluid in their and then put in dot4 silicone based this will stop the trash from affecting the calipur. just dont let res go dry while bleeding.

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Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

1 Answer

Rear rotor problem


Leave the center bolt in - that secures the drive axle in the hub. Use a hammer and whack the rotor hat (the raised center section where the lug studs come through) along the edge of it, where it protrudes from the surface where the pads contact it, out toward the section where the lug studs are. Hit it around the circumference every inch or so, and see if that helps.

Some cars also have a screw holding the rotor to the hub. If your hat surface is rusty, clean it up with brake cleaner and a wire brush - it may be that you have a screw or two in there that secure it to the hub, and they're just covered with rust/corrosion/dust. If you have no screws though, usually hitting it with a hammer will break it free.

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1999 Trans Am Rear Rotor Problem


Look around at posts if you can see any flat head small bolt if not it is rust the only hammer can do this job I saw using a torch too.

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Mazda mx3


see if you have disc or drum system brakes at rear if it is dics
try to replace brake caliper it might be stuck and make sure your emercy brake is off

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