Question about 1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I understand you right based on your post/description, the signal lights would still turn on even if any or both of the flasher relays are removed. Should this be the case, then the signal lights are not getting the power from the flasher relays but from the brake light circuit.
Perhaps your concern is not with any of the flasher, but simply missing or loose ground more particularly with the rear lights. Perhaps you could try determining which of the wires for the brake lights and signal lights (as they come out of the light assembly) would be ground . A test and even possibly a temporary workaround is to hard wire a second ground connection from the determined ground wire of the lights and attach it to any conveniently located bolt or screw to the body. it may be to your advantage to do this on all the rear lights assembly.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Posted on Aug 05, 2008
the horn relay is located underneath the hood close to the fire wall on the passenger side in a black box with a diagram on it..if the does'nt work try checking the wire under neath the steering wheel cover..
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
If you are speeking of the check engine light you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect it and the light should go off.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Actually, an older Mitsubishi truck (mine is an '88) doesn't have a horn relay. The horn (located just behind and below the front grill on the driver side) has two leads. One has 12v that comes on when the ignition is turned on. The other has a lead going to the horn button. That button will ground the horn, causing it to blow. The ground actually AT the horn is not needed at all. To get at the horn to check it out, you remove the screw directly under (but on) the steering wheel. You can then flip up the horn assembly...just put pressure upward on the bottom of the horn and it will flip out. The lead coming to the horn should have 12V on it if the ignition is on. When you ground that lead, the horn should blow. If there is no voltage on the lead, the horn is probably shot (circuit is open) and you will need a new one. So, if your wiring is ok and your connectors are connected, either you have a bad horn or there is a problem with the horn itself in producing a ground.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
SOURCE: Torque specs for mighty max
Per my Chilton's manual tehe bolts should be (cold engine) 65 to 72 FT. Pnds., the cam shaft bearing bolts should be 8x25 = 15 - 19 Ft pnds and the 8x65 should be 14 - 15 Ft Pnds.
The sequence is as follows for the (10 ) head bolts:
7 - 5 - 2 - 4 - 10
9 - 3 - 1 - 6 - 8
I hope this may help,
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
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