Question about 1994 Jaguar XJ6

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1994 XJ6 - While running AC at any speed level we get cool air in rear and front lower (leg) vents, while heated air flows from side, wind screen and center vents.

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  • dkrutz Mar 12, 2011

    ZJL,



    Thank you for your valuable input.



    Can you please assist me in locating the "vent controller" unit for inspection and repair.



    Thank you again and regards,



    DK

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1 Answer

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  • Jaguar Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Its possiblke that you have some problem with the vents controller; additioinal description details could find in THIS LINK.

The air vent system in your car is designed to direct airflow through various ducts. These ducts perform operations from defrosting the windshield, heating your feet on a cold day or cooling your face during a hot summer day. If the air delivery system has failed or has low airflow there is a problem.

Keep in touch.

Posted on Mar 11, 2011

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Front AC cold but Rear AC very hot


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1994 JaguarXJ6 Heat/AC Vent Troubleshooting


theres a small narrow plastic line from engine compartment going through fire wall witch supplies the actuators it gets hard over time and breaks or cracks when that happens the defrost vent will stay on . when this happens not enough air vauum getting to vent units.

Oct 03, 2012 | 1994 Jaguar XJ6

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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL. Every summer it seems like the AC needs to be recharged. It remains cold for a while and then it does not blow as cold. It gets cold as I drive faster. Today, the rear AC...


{: ) If there is a leak on the a/c lines, then that could really affect the a/c cooling. The only way to know is to connect it to an a/c machine and observe the high and low side pressures. Recycling the refrigerant may be suggested, especially if the pressures found not normal. Recycling means recovering the refrigerant and charging it with fresh R134a (let's say 1.36 kg). The amount recovered should be as close to 1.36 kg. The higher the difference, the more air has entered into the system, which may cause poor a/c cooling. Usual sources of leaks are the service valves, the fittings, and the a/c hoses' metal to rubber crimping. You may visually inspect for traces of oil along the a/c lines.
But assuming there are no leak issues, you need to check the throttle body for carbon fouling and clean it. Check your front grille, the a/c condenser fins, and the radiator fins for clogging or accumulation of debris. Check your engine cooling fan for bents, cracks, or silicone leakage. Off course let's not forget the coolant.
You said it gets cold as you drive faster. Just think about it. There's a big difference when the vehicle is running on speed than idling and moving on traffic. When running, air velocity helps in lowering heat on the condenser and radiator. Since temperature and pressure are directly proportional, high side a/c pressure will follow at desirable levels. This improves a/c cooling, even though the a/c is slightly low on refrigerant. Moreover, when you.re running at speed, the engine rpm is higher. The a/c compressor will pump faster thereby improves the cooling as well. When the engine runs on idle, heat management depends only on the coolant and cooling fan.
You/re rear a/c is a separate issue. It could be a faulty rear blower fuse or resistor, and that's the usual cause. You need to address first the main a/c cooling performance issue before you focus on the rear a/c blower problems.

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1 Answer

Air conditioning not too cold ??


Hello,
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Let me explain in layman's terms how the air conditioning (AC) system works and what could be happening to your car.

Like your body, the air conditioning compressor is the heart of the AC system, and Freon is the blood. The compressor pumps Freon throughout the AC system, either the older type R12 which costs as much as gold it seems these days, or the new environmentally-friendly R134A Freon. This Freon is a gas and liquid combination that is compressed and circulated throughout the air conditioning system. The compressed Freon is pushed through the system under pressure and is passed through different sized metal and rubber hoses and a special valve called an expansion valve that cause the gas to expand and contract.

This expansion and contraction makes the Freon gas very cold. This cold gas makes its way via metal lines into the dash area of your vehicle to the evaporator core. This evaporator core is like a small radiator, except it has cold Freon circulating inside and not hot antifreeze. A small fan (the AC blower fan which you control from the control panel on the dash) sits in front of the evaporator core and blows air across this cold evaporator and then through the vents inside your vehicle.

The other objective of the air conditioning system is to remove the heat from inside the cab of the vehicle. This heat is removed by the Freon with the help of the AC condenser located at the front of the car (usually in front of the radiator). The Freon coming back from the evaporator carries the heat from the cab to the condenser via rubber and metal hoses. Just like your radiator, the condenser is lightweight aluminum with many internal winding coils.
The Freon travels through these coils, and in between these coils are small slits or fins that the Freon is forced through. The condenser will have an electric cooling fan mounted in front or behind it to push or pull air through these fins to remove the heat from the Freon. Some vehicles still use the old fashioned fan blade driven by the engine to pull air across the radiator and the condenser.
Now I know that is just a tidbit of information on how the air conditioning system works, and it is very general, but I wanted you to know what to look for to give you insight as to what might be happening with your vehicle.
A few causes of low cooling efficiency or no cooling at all at idle are:

Lack of air flow across the condenser. Make sure the electric cooling fan motor near the condenser is coming on, or in models that are equipped with a fan blade make sure this fan is turning and is turning very fast.

Low Freon levels. Freon level and pressure should be checked by your certified air conditioning mechanic.

Overheating. If the engine is running hot or overheating, it can have a noticeable negative affect on the air conditioning system. Some cars have two electric cooling fans, one for the air conditioning condenser and the other for the radiator. Make sure they are both working properly. Usually at idle on a hot day with the AC on both fans will be on.

When the vehicle is traveling at freeway speeds, the compressor is pumping the Freon throughout the system much faster and harder than at idle. There is a dramatic increase in air flow across the condenser due to 55 mph winds, and the engine is usually operating at a cooler, more efficient temperature as well, thus allowing the air conditioning system to operate efficiently.
Note: An air conditioning system that is somewhat low on Freon can still feel comfortable at freeway speeds due to the added air flow across the condenser which can overcome the ill effects of slightly low Freon. Periodic air conditioning performance checks by your mechanic are the best way to keep the system in great shape.

Hope this helps.

Goodluck

Oct 08, 2010 | 1998 Cadillac DeVille

2 Answers

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yes, check the freon level, its getting low thats why its working like that.

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1 Answer

2003 Ford Explorer. A/c blows cold, but not from front of vents


I have the 03 Expy with continuous rear air unit "clicking" or more accurately flapping of the air damper while the plastic gears in the 2L2H-19E616-AA grind away into toothlessness. Ford designed this unit to find the end of travel by jamming the motor to a stop and monitoring the current to determine when to stop applying voltage. That would probably be fine if the gears were designed to handle the jammed torque or the motor did not slip out of groove and continue turning and cracking the plastic gears.

There are two white colored boxes, one is for the temp plenum door, the other the upper/lower air flow. To be sure, do what I did, turn on the ignition, rear ac/heat and listen for the obnoxious click/thump as you move the temp control from full heat to full cool, you will know which part. Disconnect the electrical connector, four bolts and it is out!

Go to your dealer, part should be about $60 or less, look on line, lots of dealers sell for this or less on internet.

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I know from experience that if the coolant is to low ( not just the freon levels in the compresor but the antifreeze/coolant level as well) the AC system will not cool and will blow hot. Check the coolant Antifreeze and freon levels, even with the Coolant being a little low my 1998 Ford E150 Van will blow hot. After you have ruled out of these possibilities and the chance it is the thermostat most likely the problem is what Ford calls the "Flap" it controls the air flow through the vent system when you switch from Heat to AC. When the Flap is working it closes off one systems air flow so as to not interfere with the current climate selection.

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I am having/had the same problem. My rear heater has not worked the last 2 winters, still trying to figure that one out. But I think I solved the front heat problem myself. The heater was blowing cold air while idling and hot air when the car was moving.

I jacked up the front of the vehicle, took the cap off of the reserve tank for the radiator, turned the car on and ran the heat (AC off) for 15 minutes. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching (this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert). Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. Dejected, I put the cap back on, lowered the vehicle and resigned myself to taking it to a dealer.

But a funny thing happened the next day, the coolant level was a lower (no leaks on the floor) so I filled up, and sure enough, when I started the car and let it warm up a little, hot air started coming out of the heater!!!

As far as my wife knows, I fixed the problem for the price of a bottle of coolant, so I am a hero...but at first I thought it didn't work. Here we are a month later and still blowing warm air and haven't had to replace any more coolant...the internet is a wonderful thing!

Hope this works for you, and I hope I can figure out my rear heater problem as well.

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1 Answer

1994 Buick LeSabre equipped with the "Dual Automatic Temp Control


fault temp sensors
still can be a worn or stuck shaft flap at the actuators
or actuators is still faulty

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Nov 28, 2008 | 2004 Honda Odyssey

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