Question about 2000 Volkswagen Cabrio

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I have a 2000 VW Cabrio GLS 4cyl 2.0L, automatic, 01M tranny conv. Looks good, runs great. After some leaning and sm. parts replacement I discovered an oil leak. It is a front wheel drive so what would be the front of the engine I have an oil leak running out of the corner of the plastic cover behind the crankshaft pulley. I had the 3 seals replace and still leaking. Not sure where to go from here. Just bought it and it did not leak at first. All I did was order parts to da a complete service and replace side marker lights. I also had to get the top extention to the filler pipe to be able to get correct level of oil. after filling oil is when it started leaking. Is this a pressure system and if so wher will I find the relief valve?

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What three seals, specifically? Where did you get them replaced? It's very easy to damage a seal upon installation if you're not careful. You can easily pick up an ultra-violet leak detection dye kit on fleaBay that you can add to the oil next time before the oil change, and you can pinpoint exactly where it's coming from.

Posted on Mar 24, 2017

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: gauges say no pressure in engine 1995 vw golf

There are two pressure switches. One for oil pressure and one for a dirty oil filter. Are you sure you've changed the right switch. If car drives for 30 mls it doesn't sound like you need an engine. The spluttering is likely to be completely unrelated to the oil warning I suspect.

Cheers John

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T

lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: looking for oil pressure relief valve on my 95 cabrio

The oil pressure relief valve should be on the oil pump.If your oil pressure is ok,have the wiring tested to theswitches or try another set of clocks

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

  • 22095 Answers

SOURCE: my 96 vw polo developed

i dont think its the oil seal check the oil pressure light switch ,i am assuming its a RHD model a the engine pulley would be on this side on a RHD vehicle ,now if its the engine model iam thinking of then the oil switch is at the top of the engine on the cylinder head about 3 inches back from the cam gear wheel ,failing which it could be the head gasket as the oil feed to the head is here as well

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: I took my 2005 passat

you need to do a oil psi test to find out if it is an engine problem or a sender problem.

Posted on Dec 09, 2010

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