You said you removed an "L" shaped hose from the firewall? I have removed a small hose from under the dash that hooked into the blower motor, is this the one you are talking about? Or is it inside the engine compartment? Also when you say you siphoned the "debris" out with a 4' hose, how big of diameter hose,and waht kind of "debris was in there? Is there alot of water? Thank you for your help, I plan on looking at it this weekend and trying to fix it, how long did it take? It doesn't sound to difficult. Thank you for your help
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Re: 02 lancer leak
The hose you mention under the dash is a cooling air hose for the blower motor, it is the condensate drain on the engine side that needs to be cleared, You will need to clean the drain and flush the heater box with water if allot of dirt is present.
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THE WATER IS CONDENSATION FROM THE AC EVAP. THE DRAIN HOSE TO THE OUTSIDE IS PROBABLY CLOGGED. IT IS USUALLY LOCATED ON THE FIREWALL NEAR THE AC LINES GOING INTO THE INTERIOR AND IS A SHORT ELBOW SHAPED RUBBER HOSE. IT MUST BE CLEANED. TRY USING A SMALL BOTTLE BRUSH THAT IS FLEXIBLE OR SOMETHING SIMILAR
Look for the drain under the hood ,directly below where the ac lines go into the firewall,clear it out with air pressure.When it is unstopped,the drain will allow a bunch of water to come out quickly,and alot of it.
your blower is located under hood passenger side corner of firewall,big black weird shaped box will have some hoses going to it and a plug or 2 ur blower is in there along with motor,also under dash passenger side is some more stuff u might find handy
those are 2 hoses an inlet and outlet for your heater.take a look inside the car at the carpet and see if there is anti freeze.the heater core can leak,and then run down the hose,but you may be lucky and just the hose is no good.they are quite stiff to take off,you have to twist them as well as pull.go slowly,damage to the heater core can result otherwise.the heater core is mounted on the firewall and the entire dash must be removed to replace it.if you do cahnge it,make sure there is a ground strap added from the heater pipes to ground.it prevents electrolysis from the dissimilar metals.
its either the hose,or the heater core.
the core can crack where the pipes meet the core and
if you can smell antifreeze in the car and the windshield fogs,it is the core....the hose can also crack on the inside of the firewall and get misdiagnosed as a heater core.
big job,the dash has to come out
Try to locate blower motor wires, usually up under dash on passenger side, maybe behind glove box, and follow wires from motor and they will usually connect to housing area, and real good chance that connection is your resistor pack if held on by screws or small bolts. Other place that you may find resistor is opposite side of firewall from blower, under hood. Look for connection at firewall, usually on passenger side.
Yes it is a heater core leak, here is how to change it.
Remove battery cables. you have to remove the upper dash pad on this paticular year model. with a 10 mm socket and a 1/2 inch extension remove the 5 retaining bolts. remove the blower assembly under the passenger side of dash. remove passenger side seat and center counsole. drain radiator. disconnect hoses from now exposed heater core. turn it 180 degrees and slide out. Replace in reverse order.
I can't believe I found a site that talks about the exact problem I'm having with my '02 Lancer. It must be a common problem for anyone living in a humid climate. The hurricanes here in Texas produce this problem almost state-wide as all of our A/C units are flowing water like crazy right now.
I'd like to expand on the solution that briankc43 so graciously provided above. The drain tube for the condensate reservoir is, indeed, found on the firewall on the driver's side (left hand drive vehicles if there's another). It's a small (1-1/2") rubber tube bent 90 degrees pointing down. In order to get to this tube you will probably have to remove the air intake tube that houses the (I'm guessing here) MAF sensor in order to get your hand down to that area. Once you've cleared the way for your hand the tube pulls off easily from the reservoir drain port that pokes through the firewall. When I did this there must have been nearly 1/2 gallon of water that flowed out! If you have a small, narrow bottle brush it would work nicely raking what muck remains in the interior of the condensate reservior. At this time I do not know if there's any way to introduce more water into the reservoir in order to flush it but this should be sufficient. I guess you could rig a small tube and funnel or syringe to squirt water into the drain port. If this works it may not be such a bad idea to mix a very small amount of bleach into the flushing water to help kill off any fungus as it's a pretty darn good place to grow a fine crop of it!
Because the drain tube narrows by about 1/2 at its end it encourages stop-ups with the dirt and fungus that grows and is deposited in the reservior over time. I thought about leaving the drain hose off but if you did you'd leave yourself open to the possiblity of water getting back into the interior during wet conditions (water splashing up on the firewall) especially if the foam seal on the inside of the firewall was damaged or deteriorated.
I hope this helps those that have been monitoring this site.
I had the same problem in my '02 Lancer, and I found that it is a design flaw in the evaporator. It gets clogged with debris and feeds back through the blower. I remedied this by removing the drain hose (it's an "L" shaped hose coming out of the firewall), and, using a 4 ft. piece of tubing into the evaporator, siphoned out the junk clogging it up. Quick, easy, and free.