I was sitting still with the Jeep idling when suddenly there was a release of water pressure from under the hood. Water was all over the ground. I waited for the steam to clear, but can't seem to figure out what blew. It seems to be something around the radiator cap. Where would I find a diagram or does anyone have a suggestion as to what may be missing?
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Cut the outer hood release cable sheath (under the dash) back to expose the inner wire cable, then using a pair of locking pliers (Vise Grips) pull on the inner release cable while another person pushes down over the latch area of the hood to relieve pressure on the latch and make it easier to open, the hook is released lubricate the hood latch and hood latch striker with white Lithium Grease (AKA "Lubriplate")
this indicates head gasket problem as the excessive pressure is released without the cap on. Check the cap operation. Check with the radiator full to the cap and idling there are occasional air bubbles in the water( gasket fault)
Bad throttle position sensor (especially if the "Check Engine" light is on or flashing)
Bad oxygen sensor (especially if the "Check Engine" light is on)
Water in fuel or bad fuel
What to do:
Start by removing the air filter to see if the problem persists. If the air filter is dirty, replace it.
Next, verify that the Check Engine light is operating by turning the key ON but not starting the vehicle. The Check Engine light should be illuminated. If not, replace the Check Engine light bulb.
If the Check Engine light is ON when you start the car, try feathering the accelerator pedal to see if the base idle stabilizes or changes. If it does, replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). This is a fairly inexpensive part.
If the Check Engine light is FLASHING, or ON, next you will need to have a local mechanic or your local auto parts store attach an ODB scanner to determine what error codes are present. This will help you pinpoint the issue.
Once you have pinpointed and corrected any issues present using the ODB codes, you will need to attach a FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE to the fuel rail test point to determine if the fuel pressure is correct. If it is too high, the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR has failed. Again, this is an inexpensive part but the fuel system pressure must be released before servicing this part. Best done by a qualified mechanic.
HAS THE CAR SAT UNUSED FOR A PROTRACTED AMOUNT OF TIME WITHOUT FUEL BEING REMOVED OR ADDED? If so, the condition you are describing may be a result of bad fuel. Modern fuels contain ethanol, which causes moisture to condense in the tank when it is not agitated. This can cause water to build up in the fuel, and causes the fuel system to rust as well as an idle issue that resembles what you are describing. Try adding new fuel, and add a full bottle of FUEL SYSTEM WATER REMOVER. Remember: IF FUEL IS ALLOWED TO SIT IN YOUR VEHICLE'S TANK (without new fuel being added) FOR MORE THAN SIX MONTHS, IT WILL GO BAD.
not water but green coolant right, antifreeze right?
you dont live in Keywest, and run water ?
the reason i say that is only the A/C condensate tray tube leaks pure water...
only you can tell what is leaking. just watch it, take your time.
get engine hot.
open hood, the RAD is under 12-14psi pressure now. (our lil helper that)
now it leaks, so see from where
the object that leaks is bad, what else is there to say, nothing
More than like its coming out as you drive. As your driving the cooling sytem builds pressure, enough pressure to force the coolant out. As it sits and cools the pressure will drop and thus not seeing a leak. Get somebody to manually pressurize the system with a pump and check for leaks. You will find it. If you cant do that, start the car open the hood let it get warm and start looking around under the hood and under the car, with a bright flashlight. Make sure that the cooling system is FULL before you do any of this or you may not be able to find the leak, so top it off.
FILL COOLANT SYSTEM UP BY POURING COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN THE EXPANSION.WHEN YOU POUR COOLANT IN EXPANSION TANK AIR BLEED OFF THROUGH THE SMALL COOLANT LINES GOING TO EXPANSION TANK.WITH PRESSURE CAP OFF RADIATOR COOLANT LEVEL IN EXPANSION IS AT FULL COLD MARK.WHAT YOU TO DO CRANK ENGINE UP LET IDLE WARM UP UNTIL COOLANT DROPS IN EXPANSION TANK KEEP ADDING COOLANT UNTIL STOP DROPPING STAY AT FULL COLD MARK.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL START RISING IN EXPANSION TANK.PUT PRESSURE CAP BACK ON RADIATOR.WHILE ENGINE IDLING WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF START CLIMBING TURN OFF ENGINE LET IT SIT FOR LITTLE WHILE TAKE A LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALDING TO RELEASE AIR IN COOLANT SYSTEM.WHEN PRESSURE IS RELEASED OPEN PRESSURE CAP ADD MORE COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK.CRANK ENGINE AGAIN LET IDLE WHEN TEMPERATURE GAUGE START CLIMBING. TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT FOR WHILE BEFORE OPEN RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.WHEN YOUR THERMOSTAT OPENS WHEN TOP RADIATOR HOSE IS HOT AND ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE STOP CLIMBING AND COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN THE EXPANSION TANK.ALL AIR IS EXPELLED FROM COOLANT SYSTEM TO KEEP ENGINE FROM OVERHEATING.
WARNING: SCALDING HOT COOLANT, WATER OR STEAM NEVER remove the pressure relief cap under any conditions while the engine is operating. Failure to follow these instruction could result in DAMAGE to the cooling system or engine AND/OR personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the cooling system or reservoir, use extreme care when removing the pressure relief cap from a hot cooling system or reservoir.
Wait until the engine has cooled.
Wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly (until the pressure begins to release.
When you are certain all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove pressure relief cap .
Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat (8575).
Raise vehicle on hoist. See General Information.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286) and degas bottle hose from the water inlet connection.
Remove the two water inlet connection retaining bolts. Remove the water inlet connection.
Remove the O-ring seal and water thermostat from the water thermostat housing. Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.
If required, remove water bypass hose from water thermostat housing and remove water thermostat housing retaining bolts, water thermostat housing and O-ring from oil filter adapter (6881). Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.
Install the water thermostat, O-rings, water thermostat housing (if removed) and water inlet connection as illustrated.
Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.).
If removed, connect the water bypass hose to the water thermostat housing.
Connect the lower radiator hose and degas bottle hose to the water inlet connection.
Fill the coolant with Ford Premium Cooling System Fluid E2FZ-19549-AA or-B (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-8-B) or equivalent that meets Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A in a 50/50 mixture with water.
Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.
When you say "T" reg. is that UK year 1999/2000 or 1989/90?
What other symptoms does it have>>>>>> Overheats, Does not heat up, Excess pressure when the tank cap is released, misfiring.
More info please. Regards, David
Check the in line fuel filters. Dirt and debris can clog the filter under vacuum pressure from fuel pump and starve the engine. After the car sits and the vacuum is released, the debris falls away from the filter allowing the fuel to pass thru the filter until it clogs up once again. There are also in tank filters but more than likely the culprit is the inline. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to fix.