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mayb oil is too thic----test batt 1st-is it ova 3yrs old-must hold 12.6v at all times--alternator mite hav issue too------some sensors cud b worn not givin a cold start to injectors--get car scanned for any hidden codes etc--dont replac parts til u git other opinions or info
It sounds like you have a charging problem-alternator is not recharging batt when drive, batt will only go so far before it runs out then you get your symtoms. you would need a volt meter to double check this. Fully charged batt will be about 12.7volts once car is started and running you should see about 13.8 to 14.2 volts at batt terminals if alt. is chariging batt. the other item that can cause this is the volatge regulator that controls alt. which are sometimes built-in alternator and sometimes they are external to alternator. and of course make sure your belt is turning alternator to allow it to work. One other small note if you do the engine running test-somtimes- if your car idles low(600 or 700 rpm) you need to give a little throttle (1000-1200rpm) to make sure alternator is turning fast enough for output test.
Sounds like you may need an alternator. If the batt is ok, could be the alt going out. A local pep boys or equivalent can check free or inexpensively... The voltage regulator is built in to the alternator... so if you change the alternator, you change the regulator too. k
could be the fuel pump ...you will need to do a fuel pressure test on it ..the pressure should be 63 anything lower even so much as a few lbs will cause this to happen ...as well if it sat that long i would consider a complete tune up and check all vacuum lines for dry-rot
Im Driving on the freeway and my car just dies i press the gas, and its not speeding up now im flooring the gas and still nothing, Pull it home and the battery dies went to auto zone replace old batt with a brand new batt and the car doesnt crank up but the electricity comes on i get some quick start in runs for 5 minutes and then cuts off this reapeats