Question about Buick LeSabre

4 Answers

My 2001 LeSabre blows warm air out the driver side air vents and cold air out the passenger vents. It has an automatic a/c system. What could cause this?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • uccblt Aug 03, 2008

    And how to repair it.

  • uccblt Aug 03, 2008

    Brought the charge up to full today. The passenger side is colder. Driver vents still warm to hot.

  • uccblt Aug 03, 2008

    The R134a charge is fine. How could a low charge cause cold air on one side & hot on the other?

  • uccblt Aug 03, 2008

    It does not have R12 and the clutch is engaged. The cooling system is working properly. the air is not being properly controlled inside the car. THAT is where I am lost.

  • uccblt Aug 03, 2008

    The hotter it is outside, the hotter the air out of the drivers side.

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi,

Pls check the vent cover/flap leading to the driver's side port. These vents (one for each side) is either controlled electrically or by vacuum valves. There would be linkages that sometimes get misaligned or disconnected.. Further these vents ore on the side of the evaporator canister/enclosure under the dash where the blower is.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

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  • Expert
  • 319 Answers

This is a classic blend door actuator problem. The blend door is controlled by the computer that controls the auto a/c system.

The blend door allows heat or no heat into the mix. Your drivers side blend door is stuck open.

This requires a removal of the dash, and is not for the squeamish!

I would take to a mechanic for an estimate first!

Brian

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • Brian Berndt
    Brian Berndt Aug 03, 2008

    I have this problem on my 97 Pontiac. I was lucky as my compressor went out about 3 months later. I have the ability to fix, but I do not have the patience to do a dash removal at this time!



    If you want to tackle yourself, please reply, and we can continue further.

  • Brian Berndt
    Brian Berndt Aug 03, 2008

    FYI -- the blend door is a 3"x5" (or so) plastic door that allows heat from the heater core (which is always hot) into the ventilation system. Your car has a separate one for each side of the car.

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  • Master
  • 659 Answers

Take your veichle into get the a/c charged. over time it will need it done again and then they can also test to see if there are any other issues with this.

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • Wesley Gardner
    Wesley Gardner Aug 03, 2008

    I have heard a multitude of answers for this same problem which has plagued me now for almost two years. No solution has yet worked for me. Here is a laundry list from my memory as to what may be causing causing the problem.
    1. Low freon. A mechanic once told me that the car will act like this when it needs a freon recharge. Such did not solve my problem, however.
    2. Stuck door. There is supposedly a "door" (for want of a better term) inside the heating/cooling system that regulates temperature and/or cabin airflow. The door opens and closes according to the temperature and and dual climate settings selected. If this door gets stuck, it causes hot to blow out drivers side and cool on the passenger side. I am suspicious of this theory. Why would hot air correctly blow out of both sides? I had another mechanic tell me this one.
    3. temperature sensor improperly reset. I read online that if the battery gets disconnected and reconnected improperly, it will cause a malfunction in the sensor responible for delivering the proper temp through the a/c system. The solutions posted were disconnect the battery and reconnect with negative terminal first; check all fuses that reference climate control, a/c , heater, etc in manual, remove for 15 seconds, reinsert or replace if necessary. This did nothing for me. However, I personally associate this intermittent problem with a battery reset. My wife's car has electrical problems (don't get me started) which necessitate frequent battery replacement. Everytime the battery has been disconnected, the problem starts again.
    4. Computer malfunction. I also read that the problem may stem from the climate control interface itself (i.e. the thing with all of the temperature knobs and buttons). Replacing this is supposed to fix the problem. I have not tried this, and frankly, I refuse to do so.
    The only current solution I have ever found is patience. The problem seems to simply disappear after a while (albeit a long while). My wife and I both have Intrigues (Gasp!). They both have the same problem(s). Nothing works for either. Good luck. If you have success post your results.



    Not Much of an Answer
    My 99 Intrigue often does this, and I have tried replacing the temp control head, plus the door reset sequence (disconnect battery, open both front doors, reconnect battery, start engine with climate control on AC with temp dialed all the way down). Neither worked. In fact, the temp control head replacement was worse than what was in there, so I had them reinstall the original. I called GM tech support and got a sheepish answer that indicated to me that the hot/cold air at the same time thing is a design flaw. If you wait several minutes (if you can stand it) with the climate control set the way you think it should be, the "computer" comes around eventually. I have noticed that the AC on a very hot day with the car sitting in the sun will usually come up blowing cold air out both sides (thank goodness). Usually when you get the hot/cold it is a moderately warm day, which apparently "confuses" the thing for a while. I'll never buy a climate control car ever again.

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  • Master
  • 1,142 Answers

A/C needs to have some pressure in the system to energize the clutch. If you have no voltage on the green wire, there is probably not enough freon in the system. There is a low pressure switch on the accumulator.

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Aug 03, 2008

    If you
    have power at that green wire but not out, jump that harness and you
    should have voltage to the compressor green wire. This will verify that
    there is not enough refrigerant in system due to a leak.


    You will
    want to retrofit this as the R-12 will cost you at least $50.00 a lb.!
    The only problem I see here is that you will not be able to pull the
    needed vacuum on the system to remove all of the R-12 and get
    satisfactory results when updating to R-134a.


    I would
    suggest seeing an A/C specialist for this because obviously there is a
    leak in the system that needs to be addressed before any work is done,
    as well as making sure the compressor is okay. It may take every bit of
    that 1200.00!


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