Question about 1993 Honda Prelude

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Change the cylinder and air is in the line

Ain in clutch line

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Gravity bleed system by opening master cyl open the bleeder a littl when bled out should drip like a faucet close and fill test drive should be good

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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My clutch won't enagage gear on my 98 corrola at low speed. I cannot change gear sometimes and car will stall. This has only just started happening, Can you tell me what the problem is?


Hi, it sounds like the clutch is dragging (not disengaging fully) first, check for air in the system, will need to open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, watch for any air, but do not let the fluid level in the reservoir go down to far, if no air, check that the fluid in the hydraulics is the correct type, check to see if the fluid is clear or slight lemon colour, if it appears black then hydraulic system must be cleaned out and seals checked, and replaced, or master and slave cylinders replaced, next check the adjustment and correct amount of clearance at the pedal and below on the slave cylinder. I take that the clutch is not slipping under power, if it is and clearances are correct the clutch will need to be replaced. Hope this helps, P

Sep 15, 2014 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

Why is my clutch feel like there is air in the line it seems to have alot of play.


Air in the hydraulic clutch release System. The system consists of the clutch master cylinder, line, hose and clutch slave cylinder. Check the level at the clutch master cylinder. The fill reservoir is along the firewall on drivers side with a black cap. It uses DOT 3 brake fluid. Add fluid if low and pump pedal. If low you have a leak. If full you have a master cylinder internal seal bad so you have to have the master cylinder for the clutch replaced.

Jul 24, 2014 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Leak driversfootwell


Check the level in the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid is brake fluid from the clutch cylinder, you will have to replace the clutch master cylinder. When bad, it is common for them to leak into the car and drip fluid on the carpet.
If you have the tools and so inclined, you can change it yourself. Not very hard,. 2 bolts hold it to the firewall, the pin or clip holding the clutch pedal rod to the cylinder (under the dash), then remove the steel line on the cylinder. (The steel line goes down to the transmission, to the little slave cylinder. After new master cylinder is installed, you need to bleed the slave cylinder to get air out of the lines.)

Nov 23, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hydraulic clutch in a 2001 nissan altima gxe 5 speed manual


Open the hood and look for the clutch master cylinder.
It is smaller than the brake master cylinder, but should be very near it.
The clutch master cylinder is about half the size of the brake master cylinder.
Take the lid off and see if it is full.
If it is empty, the likely problem is the slave cylinder (which is mounted on the transmission at the other end of the brake fluid line), has failed and needs to be replaced.
It will likely not do any good to fill the clutch master cylinder, as you will trap air in the line.
The slave cylinder will need to be replaced, and the line bled to get the air out.
Be blessed.

Apr 12, 2013 | 2001 Nissan Altima

3 Answers

Why does clutch leak off and wont go into gear 96 toyota tacoma when you push on clutch pedal goes to the floor it wont engage clutch to be able to put into gear


the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leak
you will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.

Nov 05, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I press on the clutch and it seems that I have no clutch. I installed a new presure plate and when I was done I went to turn on the truck the clutch pedal does not seem to work the clutch


I don't know if you have hydraulic clutch cylinder but sounds like it may be bypassing or have air in system. Try bleeding system and checking for pressure when pedal is pushed

Mar 09, 2011 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Bleed cluch 96 ford ranger


Ok you want to check if your slave cylinder is bled and that is the pressure plate. However, the clutch may have pressure, it dose not always engage the clutch all the way witch would cause a slamming of the clutch. Anothing thing is to check is that if you have had your clutch changed recently make sure that the proper clutch has been in staled because there are a couple diffrent choises out their. If thats not it all I can think of is your slave cylinder fluid is low. You can use a hand held brake vaccum bleeder to do this as well and it removes a bunch of the air.

Bleeding a clutch properly removes all the air from the clutch line. You want to remove the air through the master cylinder at the top of the clutch system rather than through the bottom by pumping the clutch pedal. Pumping the clutch will not remove all the air. Bleeding the clutch on a Ford Ranger will take about 20 or 30 minutes.

Raise your truck 6 inches off the ground with a jack. You can drive the truck on ramps if you have them. Lifting the truck will make it easier to bleed the clutch I promise.

Use a turkey baster to **** the brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir located at the top of the master cylinder.

Fill the pump style oil can with brake fluid and attach the flex line to the opening on the oil can. Use a new can. You do not want to pump dirt particles or another fluid into the clutch line. This is just good practice I think.

Pump the flex line with brake fluid to remove all the air. You do not want to add additional air to the clutch system.

Open the bleeder valve located on the internal cylinder with a 7mm wrench and quickly attach the flex line to the valve. I believe this is the wrench you need this is what the size of my ranger is but yours may differ. (Remember the slave cylinder may be inside the transmission bell housing.)

Pump the can to move brake fluid up the clutch line. Stop when you no longer see bubbles coming out of the brake fluid reservoir. It should take about 5 minutes to remove all the air from your system.

Use the wrench to close the bleeder valve and remove the flex line from the bleeder valve and this should complete your job.

I hope you have the best of luck with this project!

Feb 26, 2009 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Clutch cylinder inside car is it broke


you have to bleed the air out of it. If there is not fluid leaking from the master cylinder on the firewall.it can leak on the inside of car or the out side if the master cylinder is bad.first make sure the reservoir stays full then open the bleeder on slave cylinder. this is called gravity bleeding. once fluid comes out, tighten bleeder, pump pedal one time loosen bleeder while holding clutch pedal down and then tighten. do this repeatedly until no air comes out. you can pump pedal several times,then hold and bleed however you like but I have better luck with individual pumps. just make sure that the lines hooked to slave cylinder are tight and there are no air leaks. and that the line does not go below the slave cylinder because sometimes air gets trapped in the lowest part of system.

Jan 12, 2009 | 1996 BMW 318

1 Answer

Clutch won't engage--cannot shift


hydraulic clutch needs servicing or needs bleeding like a brake system wont work with air in the lines neither will hydraulic clutch's. you shouldnt have to change the clutch just service the slave cylinder ,that should give you back some pedal to use..you might want a mechanic to bleed it or have it replaced.

Jan 05, 2009 | 1994 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

Clutch pedel will not come back up.must pull it up with your foot.1990 twin turbo 300.


You've lost the integrity of the clutch hydraulic system. Chances are that either there is air in the system, the slave cylinder or the master cylinder has failed.

First step is to bleed the clutch. See if that's a fix.

A slave cylinder is down on the transmission and is relatively easy to change (only two mounting bolts, one hard hydraulic line, and an accordion-boot covered plunger). When it's changed out, the clutch needs to be bled afterward. If it's a clutch master cylinder, that's where the clutch fluid reservoir is underhood (next to the brake fluid reservoir, just to the right as you face the front of the car). Removal requires undoing the lines coming out of the cylinder, removal of the locating/mounting bolts/studs, and disconnection of the plunger rod from the back of the clutch pedal, way up under the dash. Once it's replaced, bleeding the system is required, and you also may have to adjust the pick-up point of the clutch by turning the nuts on the plunger rod - it only takes a slight turn to change the pickup point dramatically, so go slow with that.

I'd do the slave cylinder first - it's more easily accessible, significantly less expensive, and quicker to change. If it's not a fix, don't feel too badly about changing it since it's only about a $25 part and it is prone to failure, so at the very least, you've eliminated a potential problem down the road. If the slave is not a fix, I'd change the master.

Jul 25, 2008 | 1990 Nissan 300ZX

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