Question about Toyota Paseo

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How do i remove the connecting rod cap once the nuts are removed?

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Get a soft mallet and firm but lightly tap the side of the cap. it should break loose. be sure to mark the ends of the cap so you dont put it together backwards, that can screw with the oil passages. if replacing the bearing its also a good idea to place a plastigauge strip btwn the cap and bearing then torque to spec. this will let you know what your bearing clearance is, should be some where in the range of .006-.008

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Caere can i find parts diagrams for 2006 ford f150 4x4 front axle assem. and hub


This should be a great start but do suspect that you will need a few more items. Let me know if that becomes true.

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  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
  2. Remove the dust cap.
  3. Remove and discard the wheel end nut.
  4. Remove the vacuum and vent line at the vacuum and vent port of the integrated wheel end.
  5. Remove the 3 integrated wheel end bolts.
  6. Remove the tie-rod nut and separate the tie rod from the knuckle.
  7. Remove the upper ball joint nut and separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
    CAUTION Do not damage the hub seal.

    NOTE Allow the steering knuckle to swing outward while keeping the halfshaft pushed inward.
  8. Once clearance is available, remove the halfshaft outboard end and integrated wheel end from the hub bearing.
  9. Remove the integrated wheel end from the halfshaft outboard end.
  10. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Use new a wheel end nut, tie-rod nut, and upper ball joint nut.
    CAUTION Do not install the integrated wheel end in the knuckle. It must be installed on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

    CAUTION Do not dislodge the integrated wheel end seal spring when installing the integrated wheel end on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

    NOTE Compress the integrated wheel end and install a vacuum cap on the vacuum port.

Apr 29, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change a tie rod what.tools should be used


  1. Most tie rods consists of a Ball-Joint assembly. After removing the tire, you will need to pull the Tie-Rod Nut Retaining Pin before trying to take off the Tie-Rod Ball Joint Nut.
  2. After the Nut is removed, you can use a ball-joint separator to separate the ball-joint from the Hub assembly.
  3. After the Ball-joint is separated, mark the position of the old Tie-Rod where it connects to the Rack and Pinion assembly, and then remove the tie rod using a wrench.
  4. Installation is the reverse of disassembly.
  5. Once it is back together, you will need to get your vehicle aligned.

Mar 27, 2011 | Oldsmobile 98 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

Need to replace front outer tie rod end. How do you do this? Is it simple replacement? 1989 Ford Festiva


Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.

Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.

After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.

Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.

Aug 11, 2010 | 1989 Ford Festiva

1 Answer

Half Shaft


pull off hub cap remove circlip in the nut if there is one, then loosen axle nut. Need a breaker bar and wheel on the ground. once nut is off loosen lug nuts, jack up car on side . bolts #10 Tork on some models then remove. Remove lower tie rod end remove bolt and nut. remove rotor and 2 Caliper pull out on the bolt. push lower control arm down with a bar and pull strut Assembly out away from car. next pull axle out using a flat bar to shove the axle out of transmission. install is in reverse.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1996 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Repair inner tie rod end of 1997 dodge avenger


f734654.gif #3 is the inner tie rod and it is simply screwed into each end of the steering rack. Raise and support the car remove the wheel and you should see where it is connected to the outer tie rod. There is a lock nut that you'll need to loosen slightly to get the tie rod off. You will need to get a wheel alignment once done but by slightly loosening the lock nut, you have a good reference of how it should be once done. Once loose, you should be able to turn the tie rod by using a wrench on the flattened area on the rod. Once disconnected from the outer tie rod end, you should be able to remove the dust boot covering the inner tie rod connection. Mine came right apart so hope you have no problems. After you have it out, here is where the loosened locknut comes into play. Put the new and old tie rod side by side, line up the ends that attach to the rack and pinion then mark the new rod so you know how far to put the lock nut on the new tie rod. Simply tightly screw the new one onto the rack and pinion put the boot back, screw on the lock nut to the mark then attach the tie rod to the outer tie rod end up to the lock nut then tighten the lock nut against the outer end. Get the tire back on, lower the car and Voila, done. Now go get an alignment.

Nov 18, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Avenger

1 Answer

1990 dodge ram pickup wiper stopped working. Motor works and I can see it turning by looking through the slotted panel just below the windshield. There is a metal piece about 3" long connected to the motor...


First you have to remove the metal caps covering the wiper blade locking nut then remove the nut and leftthe wiper arm assembly up and rock back and forth till loose. then pull arm off as you wiggle the arm. next raise the hood and remove the 4 inside screws at the back of the hood remove the valance and the 2 plastic holding clamps then lift up. Once you have valance off look to see if the gears are stripped on the motor or the shaft if they are go to a junk yard and buy new parts. you will find the short rod and a long rod, they should be connected, if not the ball on the end of the long rod may have poped out turn on key then wiper motor and watch the parts move. You will be able to see it right away.
Hope this helps. If you need more asstance please post here and thanks for using fix-ya
Avid101

Aug 23, 2009 | Dodge Ram 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I'm looking for the 2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2L v6 connecting rod bearings torque specs.


1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

    1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
    2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
      1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
      2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
      3. Remove the rod caps.
        1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
        2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

May 21, 2009 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

How to remove the Harmonic Balancer on a 1995 Toyota Camry sedan?


4. REMOVE ENGINE BALANCER
(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the 6 bolts in several
passes, in the sequence shown.
(b) Remove the engine balancer and spacers
5. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE
Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance
while moving the connecting rod back and forth.
Standard thrust clearance:
0.160 − 0.312 mm (0.0063 − 0.0123 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance:
0.35 mm (0.0138 in.)
If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, re−
place the connecting rod assembly. If necessary, re−
place the crankshaft.
6. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD CAPS AND CHECK
OIL CLEARANCE
(a) Check the matchmarks on the connecting rod and cap
to ensure correct reassembly.

(b) Remove the 2 connecting rod cap nuts.

(c) Using a plastic−faced hammer, lightly tap the con
necting rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.
HINT: Keep the lower bearing inserted with the con
necting rod cap.
.

Mar 07, 2009 | 1995 Toyota Camry

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