Question about 1994 Audi 100

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On an intermitent basis, the engine shuts down when driving at highway speed. Must remove key and wait a minute or two to restart the car. Could this be a pickup coil problem?

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I had the same problem, and none could diagonse it.  -  engine shuts down accompanied by a beep and the low oil pressure light  Seemed to be a heat-related problem. After a while, i blew a head gasket, and replaced it. Have not had that problem since... My cam seals were leaking heavily too.. perhaps fixing the leak fixed the problem?

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

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The coil wire slide on type ( not Bolt on ) have a tendansy to expand if they get to hot, thus causing an open in your ignition system and shutting down your engine. much the same as driving down the highway and sudenly turning off your key.After a period of cool down you turn the key and the motor firers up right away because the coil cap has had a chance to cool down as well and cuntract to its original shape ounce again and is ounce again making proper contact,untill it gets to hot again and then the same thing will happen.Solution replace the coil half cap and wires to it.

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it is not how many miles but the type of driving.

here is a OBD2 drive cycle test.

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)
  1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
  2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
  3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
  4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
  5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
  6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

Jun 04, 2010 | 2001 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

Shut down


try this.
Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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It could be something as simple as a bad or loose ground wire but the hard part is finding it.
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Sam

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Living in Thailand I had a lot of stalling problems. It started with my engine not running smooth when driving away cold. After half a km or so the car would just die or after even a longer distance stalling at full speed. Restarting worked and mostly I could drive on. Sometimes it would stall in a traffic jam.

Checked everything, but could not really put 1 and 1 together until I noticed that I was loosing a little cooling liquid and kept refilling on a regular basis. Found that every time this problem occurred also the cooling liquid was low again. Refilling the liquid solved the problem till the cooling liquid/water was low again. After fixing the actual leaking hose the problem disapeared totally. Later when my radiator started leaking slightly the problem came back as before. Now the car is fitted with a new radiator no problems like this anymore for more then 1 year.
I think the engine management system of the KIA is very sensitive for low water and maybe the temperature changes coming with it.

Maybe worth checking?


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