I removed belt cover and lined up intake mark and found exaust side a couple teeth off is that right for valve lag or lead

I would do a leakage test on the suspect cylinder and compare with a couple others.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/chris_b82b45c59bcf133d

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.



To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.

In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.

One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Timing Belt Cover, Belt & Sprockets Removal & Installation 2.5L Engine To Remove:

1. Remove the drive belts.
2. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt tensioner. Timing belt & cover DOHC exploded view
   
   
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
4. Remove the mounting bolts and left timing belt cover.
5. Remove the mounting bolts and right timing belt cover.
6. Remove the mounting bolts and front timing belt cover.
7. Vehicles W/ M/T: Remove the timing belt guide.
8. Ensure that the timing belt rotation arrows are still visible. If the marks are worn off, place new rotation marks on the belt. Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
   
   
9. Turn the crankshaft using a breaker bar and special adapter socket on the crankshaft. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (1), left intake sprocket (2), left exhaust sprocket (3), right intake sprocket (4) and right exhaust sprocket (5) with the notches in cylinder block and timing belt cover.
10. Paint alignment marks on the timing belt at the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets timing marks. CAUTION
    Do not turn the camshaft sprockets with the timing belt removed. The valves heads will contact each other causing the valve stems to bend.
    
11. Remove the lower right idler pulley.
12. Remove the timing belt.
13. Remove the upper right idler pulley.
14. Remove the lower left (toothed) idler pulley.
15. Remove the belt tensioner.
16. Hold the sprocket and remove the left intake and exhaust camshafts.
17. Hold the sprocket and remove the right intake and exhaust camshafts.
18. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.

To Install:

1. Install the crankshaft sprocket.
2. Hold the sprocket and install the right intake and exhaust camshafts with the mounting bolts. Tighten 58 ft-lb (78 Nm).
3. Hold the sprocket and install the left intake and exhaust camshafts with the mounting bolts. Tighten 58 ft-lb (78 Nm).
4. Reset the automatic belt tensioner as follows:
   • Remove the mounting bolt and belt tensioner. NOTE: Do not exceed more than 2,205 lb. (9,807 N).
     
   • Place the belt tensioner on a press. Press the adjuster rod down gradually (using more than 3 minutes) 66- lb (165 N) or more until the adjuster rod is aligned with the stop pin hole in the cylinder.
   • Insert a 0.08 in (2 mm) diameter pin or hex wrench into the pin hole to lock the adjuster rod.
   • Install the automatic belt tension adjuster with the mounting bolt. Tighten 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
5. Install the lower left (toothed) idler pulley. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm).
6. Install the upper right idler pulley with the mounting bolt. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm). Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover alignment marks 2.5L DOHC
   
   
7. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the oil pump cover. Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
   
   
8. Align the single timing mark on the right exhaust camshaft sprocket with the notch on the timing belt cover.
9. When the single timing mark on the right exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with the notch on the timing belt cover, ensure that the double lines on the intake camshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets are aligned.
10. Align the single timing mark on the left exhaust camshaft sprocket with the notch on the timing belt cover by turning the sprocket counter clockwise (viewed from front of engine).
11. Ensure that the double lines on the intake camshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets are aligned when the single timing mark on the left exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with the notch on the timing belt cover. CAUTION
    • The camshafts can be rotated independently causing the valves heads to contact each other resulting in bent valve stems.
    • When the timing belt is removed the camshafts will turn to the lowest cam lobe position by the force of the valve springs. Before installing the timing belt the 4 camshafts are in the lowest lift position (valves closed).
    • When the camshafts are rotated to install the timing belts, # 2 intake and # 4 exhaust cam lobes of the left camshafts are held to push their corresponding valves down. In this position, these valves are held in the open position. Right camshafts are held so their cam lobes do not push the valves down.
    • The left camshafts must be rotated from the lowest lobe position to the position where the timing belt can be installed at the smallest possible angle in order to prevent intake and exhaust valve contact. Camshaft sprockets rotation
      
      
    • Do not turn the camshafts in the direction shown in the illustration because the valves will open at the same time and contact each other.
    CAUTION
    If the timing belt alignment is off the mark buy more than 3 teeth, the valves and pistons may have contact.
    Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
    
    
12. Align the timing marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets in the numerical order shown in the illustration.
13. Install the lower right idler pulley with the mounting bolt. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm).
14. Ensure that the timing mark alignment is correct and remove the tensioner stop pin.
15. Vehicles W/ M/T: Install the timing belt guide and temporarily tighten the mounting bolts.
16. Vehicles W/ M/T: Measure the clearance between the guide and timing belt. The clearance should measure 0.039 ± 0.020 in (1.0 ± 0.5 mm).
17. Vehicles W/ M/T: Tighten the guide bolts 7.2 ft-lb (9.8 Nm).
18. Install and secure the front timing belt cover with the mounting bolts.
19. Install and secure the right timing belt cover with the mounting bolts.
20. Install and secure the left timing belt cover with the mounting bolts.
21. Install the crankshaft pulley.
22. Install the A/C compressor drive belt tensioner.
23. Install the drive belts.

When you align the timing marks up take a wrench and rotate the crankshaft pully twice so the timing mark is lined up in the notch and then check your camshafts and see if you are still aligned. This may take a few times to get it right. Good luck!

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

follow these instructions exactly, be sure u get it right or u will bend the engine valves this is an interference engine, if u have a broken belt u most likey have bent valves, about 90% of the time the valves do get bent.
here are the instructions.

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Timing belt removed, static timing was not set before removing timing belt.

[Set Static Timing:
No.1 piston is brought up to TDC before removing timing belt.

Cam gear has a punchmark on face of gear, and this mark aligns with one single tooth. There is a matching punchmark on the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover.

Facing the cam gear, the mark is to the upper right. There is an 'egg shape' of the timing belt upper rear cover, in this spot. This punchmark is in that 'egg shape', and is close to a bolt hole. The cam gear mark lines up with the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover, mark.

The crankshaft gear has a punchmark on the face. It lines up with one single tooth. There is a corresponding punchmark on the lower right side. An alignment mark)

Should be a round punchmark on the face of the crankshaft gear. It lines up with a single tooth. Wipe the gear clean, use a little carb cleaner. (NO flames, or sparks nearby, well ventilated area)

Barring you cannot find the crankshaft mark, find the camshaft alignment marks, make sure they are aligned with the alignment, (Punchmark), on the Timing Upper Rear Cover.

Count the teeth in the timing belt. There should be 133 teeth on the belt.

There is 43 teeth in-between the timing mark of the camshaft, and the timing mark on the crankshaft.

(43 teeth in-between the Right Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark, 43 teeth in-between the Left Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark)

There should be 40 teeth in-between the two cam gears.

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the engine under covers and drain engine coolant from the radiator; be careful not to allow coolant to contact drive belts.
   
3. Remove the front right side wheel and tire assembly. Remove the engine side cover.
   
4. Remove the drive belts from the engine.
   
5. Rotate the crankshaft to position the No. 1 cylinder at the TDC of it's compression stroke.
   
6. Remove the upper radiator hose and the water inlet hose. Remove the water pump pulley.
   
7. Remove the idler bracket of the compressor drive belt.
   
8. Remove the crankshaft damper. It may be necessary to use a puller to remove the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft.
   
9. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.
   
10. Make sure the punch marks on the camshaft sprockets align with the punch marks on the rear timing belt cover and the punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the punch mark on the oil pump.
    

Fig. 1: Line up the punchmarks on the sprockets with the marks on the rear timing belt cover before removal of the belt

1. Loosen the timing belt idler pulley bolt. Using a hexagon wrench, rotate the idler pulley to release it's tension and remove the timing belt.
   

Fig. 2: After the timing marks are lined up, loosen the tensioner and remove the belt

Be careful not to bend the new belt installing it. Timing belts are designed to flex only the way they turn around the pulleys.
To install:
After removing timing belt, do not rotate crankshaft and camshaft separately, because valves will hit piston heads.

1. Confirm that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. Install tensioner and tensioner spring. If stud is removed apply locking sealant to threads before installing.
   

Fig. 3: Make sure the aligning marks are correct before installing the timing belt onto the sprockets

1. Swing tensioner fully clockwise with hexagon wrench and temporarily tighten locknut.
   

Fig. 4: The tensioner uses a spring to aid in tensioning the timing belt. Be sure to use locking sealant when replacing the stud.

1. Set timing belt, align the arrow on the timing belt forward. Align the white lines on the timing belt with the punch marks on all 3 pulleys.
   

There are 133 total timing belt teeth. If timing belt is installed correctly there will be 40 teeth between left and right camshaft sprocket timing marks. There will be 43 teeth between left camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket timing marks

go to this link for more help
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1f/49/c6/0900823d801f49c6/repairInfoPages.htm