Question about 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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Timing ---- # 1 up on compression, the damper has 2 marks on it. which is the proper one to use? i know with the timing cover off, the second mark lines up with the notch, when all gears are lined up. the distributor also has the 6 to line the rotor to as well. i need to know, which line to use on the damper thanks

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The easiest way I found is to take out #1 plug jam a rag in the plug hole with a sccrewdriver tight and tap the starter around until the rag pops out then move the engine the rest of the way by hand I looked for whatever information I have on that and I have no pictures to send you sorry if you have found this information helpful please give me a good rating Thank you ,Randy
Please contact me if I can do anything for you

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • Randy Harkins
    Randy Harkins Aug 11, 2008

    Are you getting fuel and spark and fuel injector pulse?


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Thanks randy,
this balzer has been a nightmare
i thought i might of had it today, but, no luck.
i know i have it in time, i have tried one timing mark, it would not turn over, like dead battery, i put it on the second mark, turn over
great, but would not start.
i have put almost everything new on the motor, except the computer. is there anything that shut the vehicle down , prevent from start, maybe something that might reset the computer.
i have hooked the scan tool up to the computer, shows no codes.?????

Posted on Aug 11, 2008


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1 Answer

How to set timing chain on a 1997 audi a4 1.8 non turbo

is this a ground zero, never looked question
our 1.8 has a belt and chain.
called the AEB engine. 20 valves.... or is it the 16valve>?

1.8 R4 20vT

ours is the DOHC head,
there are 47 steps. in the FSM.
and photos , (log in to and look?)

the engine as s chain at the rear of the 2 cams, linking them.
and a front drive belt all must be timed by the book.
the first, fact to discover, is if it is and INTERFERENCE engine.
Im told it IS>!
if yes, do not crank engine over, util you are 3 times sure of timing
or boom, kiss off valves, or more..... damage has no limits.
the book tells you to match mark, the rear chain sprockets.
ill skip this, you implied front of engine belt.
there are 2 chapters one for rear chain
and one for belt.
here is the belt side.

quote. removal.
  1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
  3. Remove the engine accessory drive belts. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
  4. Using a 5 x 60mm bolt, secure the viscous fan pulley. Using a hex wrench, remove the viscous fan-to-pulley bolts. Remove the viscous fan assembly.
  5. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.
  6. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
usually a dumb idea this.... but is stated.
If reusing the timing belt, mark its rotational direction so it may be installed in its original position.
  1. Using the center bolt, rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to position the No. 1 cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.
  2. Remove the damper pulley-to-crankshaft bolts and the damper.
  3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  4. Using a Torx Wrench T45, or equivalent, loosen the timing belt tensioner, push the tensioner downward and remove the timing belt.

  1. Align the camshaft sprocket timing mark with the cylinder head cover mark.
  2. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket with the arrow facing the rotational direction.
  3. Install the lower timing belt cover.
  4. Using a bolt, secure the damper/belt pulley on the crankshaft.
  5. Align the crankshaft damper/belt pulley with the housing timing mark so that the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of its compression stroke.
  6. Install the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket and belt tensioner.
  7. Using a 2-pin Spanner Matra Tool No. V159 Wrench, or equivalent, lift (turn clockwise) the timing belt tensioner cylinder No. 1 until it is fully extended and tensioner cylinder No. 2 is raised approx. 1mm (3/8 inch); then, hand-tighten the mounting bolt.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft 2 complete rotation in the running direction.
  9. Inspect area 'A' for proper alignment with the upper edge of piston No. 2 and adjust if necessary.
  10. Area 'A' - adjustment OK
  11. Area 'B' - wear limit
  12. Area 'C' - re-adjust and check belt drive including tensioner for wear.
details, (devil?)
If the piston edge is located in area 'A', measurement 'D' is 25-29mm (31/32-1 1/8 inches).
  1. After adjustment has been verified, secure the tensioner with a 2-pin Spanner Matra Tool No. V159 Wrench, or equivalent, and tighten the mounting bolt.
  2. Complete the damper to crankshaft installation.
  3. Using the center bolt, rotate the crankshaft 2 rotations in the direction of engine rotation until the camshaft and crankshaft marks align with their respective reference points.
  4. Install the upper timing belt cover.
  5. Install the drive belts.
  6. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal.
  7. Install the negative battery cable last.
  8. Test drive the vehicle.

login to and just look, its $15 bucks.
the cost is about 1/10 of 1hour shop labor charges, stateside,
free IMO..
PS : a savvy mech will not do step 8 ,until he:
1: spins engine over by hands sparks out, to feel if the valves hit the pistons, ( a DUH factor if ever. there was)
and TRIPLE checking. all timing marks again before close up.

there is no forgiveness, like on free runners. not at all.

Jul 05, 2014 | Audi Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to find top dead center on the compression stroke of a 1987 toyota 22re

there are many ways. (ill assume the damper pulley marks are ok)
1: valve cover off, watch valves #1, all closed at mark is TDC firing.
2: with cam cover off, front of engine watch the marks. per FSM>
3 the blow rag out of the spark #1 hole trick. ask.:
4: the compression gauge trick. max press at TDC is TDC true.
micky mouse can stick is finger in the spark hole and feel the the intake valve but not me,,,, ok, way 5 a bore scope.......

Jan 20, 2014 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed thehead on my 1995 geo metro now it wont strart the rotor button turns but cant get it to fire

You will have to tear it back down where you can get to timing belt and all pulleys.

Timing Belt

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

0900c15280048765.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Timing belt, tensioner and camshaft gear

0900c15280048766.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Timing belt alignment marks

0900c15280048767.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Timing belt tensioner and belt
Timing belts must always be handled carefully and kept completely free of dirt, grease, fluids and lubricants. This includes any accidental contact from spillage, fingerprints, rags, etc. These same precautions apply to the pulleys and contact surfaces on which the belt rides.The belt must never be crimped, twisted or bent. Never use tools to pry or wedge the belt into place. Such actions will damage the structure of the belt and possibly cause breakage.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the 4 crankshaft pulley bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley.

It is not necessary to loosen the crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt at the center.
  1. Remove the timing belt cover.
  2. Align the 4 timing marks by turning the crankshaft.
  3. Remove the timing belt tensioner, tensioner plate, tensioner spring, spring damper and timing belt.

After the timing belt is removed, never turn the camshaft or crankshaft independently. If turned, interference may occur among the pistons, and valves and parts related to the pistons and valves may be damaged.
  1. Inspect the timing belt for wear or cracks and replace as necessary. Check the tensioner for smooth rotation.

To install:
  1. Install the tensioner plate to the tensioner.
  2. Insert the lug of the tensioner plate into the hole of the tensioner.
  3. Install the tensioner, tensioner plate and spring. Do not tighten the tensioner bolt and stud, make the bolt hand tight only.

Be sure that plate movement is installed in the proper direction that causes the same directional movement of the tensioner inner race. If no movement between the plate and inner race occurs remove the tensioner and plate again and reinsert the plate lug into the tensioner hole.
  1. Check that the timing mark on the camshaft timing pulley is aligned with the V mark on the cylinder head cover. If not align the 2 marks by turning the camshaft by be careful not to turn it more than the allowable range.
  2. Check that the punch mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley is aligned with the arrow mark on the oil pump case. If not align the 2 marks by turning the camshaft by be careful not to turn it more than the allowable range.
  3. With the 4 marks aligned, install the timing belt on the 2 pulleys in such a way that the arrow marks on the belt (if so equipped) coincide with the rotating direction of the crankshaft. In this state the No. 1 piston is at top dead center of its compression stroke.
  4. Install the tensioner spring and spring damper. To allow the belt to be free of any slack, turn the crankshaft 2 rotations clockwise after installing the tensioner spring and damper. After removing the belt slack, first tighten the tensioner stud to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm) and then the tensioner bolt to 20 ft. lbs.. (27 Nm).

As a final check, confirm that both sets of timing marks are aligned properly.
  1. Ensure that the seal is between the water pump and the oil pump case. Install the timing belt outside cover. Torque the timing belt cover bolts to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the crankshaft pulley. Fit the keyway on the pulley to the key on the crank timing belt pulley and tighten the 4 bolts to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm).
  3. Lower the vehicle and install the negative battery cable.

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2 Answers

Am having trouble on finding the marks to re place the timing chain on a ford expidition 99

The timing chain on a Ford Expedition works with the camshaft and crankshaft, turning them through sprockets. The alignment with the chain and its sprockets is very precise, so replacing the chain is a very precise and difficult procedure. The chain has its own cover that you must remove to access it. Consult your mechanic before working on the timing chain. The process can vary depending on the year and engine type. Professional maintenance is always recommended.
  1. Removing the Chain Cover
    • 1 Disable the truck's ignition system by disconnecting the primary electrical connectors at the ignition coil pack. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do this.
    • 2 Take out the spark plugs by unplugging their wires and removing them with a socket wrench and spark plug socket.
    • 3 Install a compression gauge into the Number One cylinder and use a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft's damper bolt to turn the crankshaft. Turn it until the notch in the damper aligns with the TDC mark on the front cover and compression is noted on the gauge.
    • 4 Drain the engine oil from the truck into a pan by removing the oil pan plug and remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.
    • 5 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley and vibration damper; mark their positions so they can be installed the same way. Avoid turning the crankshaft as you remove the damper.
    • 6 Remove all accessory brackets connected to the timing chain cover by unbolting them. This includes unbolting the power steering pump; set it aside with its hoses still connected.
    • 7 Disconnect the camshaft position sensor's electrical connector and remove the camshaft position sensor. Disconnect the electrical connectors for the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor.
    • 8 Remove the front bolts on the oil pan and the socket-head bolt--the latter requires an Allen wrench. Disconnect the heater hoses and then unbolt and pull out the heater outlet tube.
    • 9 Separate the timing chain cover by removing its bolts. You may need to tap it with a soft face hammer if it's stuck.
    Changing the Chain
    • 1 Check and see that the timing marks on the camshaft, crankshaft and balance shaft sprockets are all aligned. If not, re-install the vibration damper bolt so you can turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the marks.
    • 2 Remove the camshaft sprocket's mounting bolt and the camshaft position sensor's drive gear. Compress the timing chain tensioner with a screwdriver, hold the tensioner in the retracted position with a drill or Allen wrench and pull the sprocketed chain off the camshaft.
    • 3 Turn the camshaft until the key is facing the 12 o'clock position (straight up).
    • 4 Place the replacement chain on the camshaft sprocket, turn the sprocket until its timing mark faces 6 o'clock (straight down), position the chain over both sprockets with their timing marks lined up and slip the sprockets on the camshaft and crankshaft.
    • 5 Install the camshaft position sensor drive gear by aligning its keyway arrow with the Woodruff key on the camshaft.
    • 6 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt, applying a non-hardening thread-locking compound to the threads, and tighten the bolt to 30 to 36 foot-pounds.
    • 7 Remove the drill or wrench from the timing chain tensioner and re-install all the other parts in the reverse order of removal. This includes adding fresh engine oil and a new oil filter.

Sep 22, 2011 | 1999 Ford Expedition

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I am having a hard time getting my 02 pt cruiser on its compression stroke when i line up all my timing marks what am i doing wrong?


Oct 05, 2010 | Chrysler PT Cruiser Cars & Trucks

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Rocker arm torque specs on a 97 gmc jimmy 4.3

  1. For the 4.3L engines which are equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, tighten the rocker arm adjusting nuts against the stop shoulders to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-96 models and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-99 models. No further adjustment is necessary, or possible.
  2. For most 4.3L engines which are not equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs and positive stop shoulders, properly adjust the valve lash. For details on valve lash adjustment, please refer to the procedure in Routine Maintenance . (see below)
4.3L Engine

The 4.3L engines may be equipped with either of 2 rocker arm retaining systems. If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible. If however, you engine utilizes the pressed-in rocker arm studs, use the following procedure to tighten the rocker arm nuts and properly center the pushrod on the hydraulic lifter:
  1. To prepare the engine for valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the damper pulley aligns with the 0? mark on the timing plate and the No. 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. You will know when the No. 1 piston is on it's compression stroke because both the intake and exhaust valves will remain closed as the crankshaft damper mark approaches the timing scale.

Another method to tell when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke is by removing the spark plug and placing your thumb over the hole, you will feel the air being forced out of the spark plug hole. Stop turning the crankshaft when the TDC timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is directly aligned with the timing mark pointer or the zero mark on the scale.
The valve arrangement is as follows:

E-I-I-E-I-E (right bank-front-to-rear) E-I-E-I-I-E (left bank-front-to-rear)

  1. With the engine on the compression stroke, adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 & 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 & 3 by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turns.

  2. Rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the mark on the damper pulley with the 0? mark on the timing plate; the engine is now positioned on the No. 4 firing position. This time the No. 4 cylinder valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale. Adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 & 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 & 6, by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turn.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

1999 chevy 4.3 timing issue

i have a 1999 blazer 4.3 2wd i have top dead center up and the mark on the balancer lined up to the cover. Ignition rotor pointed to #6 on the cap. But it still seems like its out?

May 26, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

For a 6 cylinder 4 stroke what is the position of all cylinder when cylinder number 1 is at compression stroke

on a proper TDC timed dead Compression your harmonic damper has a mark that tells you such Zero status is alighned with a mark on the motor or plastic cover it puts you to perfect timeing

Apr 03, 2010 | 2005 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz E320 Cdi

2 Answers

Timing belt replacement

This is the timing belt replacement procedure to 1999 Vovlo V70
with the B5254s engine

1) Lift power steering and anti-freeze resevoirs slightly and disconnect electrical connector for antifreeze sensor. Then carefully lift both resevoirs and position it on top of the valve cover.

2) Relieve the tension from the serpentine belt tensioner pulley and remove the serpentine belt.

3) Remove the screw holding the plastic timing belt cover and carefully remove the cover.

4) Locate the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys. I highlighted the marks with paint to make them easier to see. I took a dab of white touch up paint and put it on each mark, then waited a minute and then wiped the excess paint carefully, leaving a white line for the mark. The mating marks for the cam gears is on the upper cam gear cover. The marks are rectanular cutouts on the underside of the cover. I was unable to line up the marks unless standing on my head so I extended the marks to the outside of the cover with a white painted dot. This trick made life much easier.

5) Reinstall the timing gear cover.

6) Place a 32mm socket on the crankshaft pulley and connect a breaker bar to the socket. Slowly rotate the engine crankshaft (clockwise) until the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the marks on the gear cover. (I preferred to do this job with the spark plugs installed. I found it easier to keep the engine in time by using the engine compression).

7) Remove the vibration damper by removing the 32mm nut and remove all of the 10mm screws. Carefully pry the pulley from the shaft. There is an alignment pin which allows the pulley to be installed only one way. With the vibration damper removed you can now check the timing alignment with the crankshaft and it's witness mark.

8) Remove the small timing belt shield from the underside of the crankshaft. This shield is helt in place with 2 screws.

9) Loosen the ttiming belt tension and remove the old timing belt.

10) This is a good time to check the waterpump for any signs of wear or leaks. Mine was leaking after 101,000 miles. I also replaced the tensioning pulley and used Volvo OEM parts. (The old Volvo parts lasted 100,000 miles, that is good enough for me).

11) Reverse the procedure for installing the new timing belt.

12) After the belt is installed and properly tensioned, put the breaker bar with the 32mm socket onto the vibration damper and rotate the engine (clockwise) slowly until your timing marks are again aligned. If they are not, remove and reinstall the belt. Don't get frustrated just think of all of the money you have saved by doing this job yourself.


Aug 10, 2008 | Volvo 740 Cars & Trucks

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