1999 Saturn SL2 Electrical Issues - Gauges not working / Not starting / Radio Off when Turn Signal is On / Etc.
1999 Saturn SL2 - intermittently it's been having some weird electrical issues, gauges flutter, car won't crank, etc.
On the way to work today, radio started shutting off when the turn signal was turned on, wipers and windows are both functional but very slow, airbag light flashes, interior beep (for key in ignition, door open) started going off erratically, no gauges working - at first fluttering while buried to the left, after speedometer was stuck at 40 or so and RPM stuck at 2K or so, engine felt like it had a lack of power.
The car didn't die, but when it was shut off, it won't crank over again --- I'm assuming that it might start up later, but I have to get this taken care of.
I'm at a loss - it seems very similar to the Body Control Module issues in the new L-Series, but I don't know enough about these Saturns to make an educated guess.
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This may just be a problem with the wiring of the car's ECU. It could be a loose wiring. The ECU may be receiving power intermittently. It could also be just an issue with the EFI relay. The ECU signal from the EFI is intermittent causing the flickering and the clicking sound.
This sounds somewhat similar to a problem I had with my 1999 Saturn SL2. There was "burning and arching" on the fusebox and it was replaced. The first few times my car would make an extra beep noise when locked or unlocked and I believe the radio/clock had to be reset. The problem got worse although sporadic. Eventually the car wouldn't start - not even making a clicking noise and a big variety of electrical components would not work or didn't sound right.
Have you done any wiring changes in your car recently? There should be no interaction between the turn signal switch and the starter switch. You do not need to replace your light cluster. In fact, I don't think you have a problem with your turn signal switch, unless, of course, the turn signals do not work. Do you have access to an electrical schematic and a voltmeter?
Sounds exactly like my 1999 SL2 which had "burning and arching" in the fuse box. Car one day be fine the next I'd take it to the store, come back in 10 minutes and wouldn't start, no radio, no power windows, no keyless entry remote, no rear defrost and even locking doors from inside power buttons it sounded odd. This fixed the problem by replacing the fuse box.
Guessing there may be two issues. One might be "burning and arching" of the fuse box. My 1999 SL2 would periodically not even make a noise to turn over and that fixed that. It also had issues that some electrical components wouldn't work at the same time.
Wow... if the whole car is doing that i would guess it to be electrical issues.like a bad ground...basically a major cable that connects to your frame or directly to the negative side of the battery. You see, electricity leaves its source makes a device operate then the electricity goes back to the source. kinda like a big circle... when you start your car...the battery gets you going...then...the Alternator takes over...recharges the battery while making your car operate on an electrical standpoint. if you break that circle...lights out...be it the wires losing contact. battery failure( usually they STAY dead) or it could be an alternator with an intermittent problem. Based on a money stand point...your battery is fine...i'd replace the alternator...not trusting it after all that. (100- 300 bucks) if it STILL does it..then have a mechanic replace your wiring harness associated with the ignition, starter,alternator and battery( should be just one bundle of wires to fit that portion) .200 to 400 bucks to get that replaced. i hope this helps you out with finding out what the problem is...and i'm sorry to say...getting a fuel filter and fuel pump replacement would not cause a radio to lose power...the battery is like a back up system. don't go back to that mechanic ever again..as he is ripping you off. im an electrician so i know about electricity and i also tinker with cars quite a bit for fun.
I had the same problem in a 1997 SC2. Turns out that finicky/broken door lock/unlock switches were causing an intermittent short.
I removed the 20A fuses to these locks in the switch panel under the radio. Problem fixed.