I am getting a draw on my battery but cannot find the short i have replaced the external regelator the glow plug relay but i still get a draw on my battery then it goes away after 20 min or so but it drains my battery

View topic - Glow plugs not working?

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2005 liberty 2.8 CRD Have replaced glow plugs control relay

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Oct 28, 2016 - 2005 liberty 2.8 CRD Have replaced glow plugs control relay cleared codes. and engine still will not start. If I give it.

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There can be several reasons for this. The cheapest reasons to look at are spark to the glow-plugs and fuel to the cylinders. If you have a "ready light" on the dash that tells you when the glow-plugs are ready, you need to listen for the clicking of the glow-plug relay and the blinking of every other light that is on in sync with the clicking sound.

If the clicking and light dimming is not observed your power relay to the glow-plug relay is probably bad. A voltmeter will be needed to test for juice passing through the the power relay. If you have juice going to the glow-plug relay from the power box relay and it does not cycle off and on, your glow-plug relay is bad or the glow-plugs are bad.

You can test the power to each glow-plug with a test light or meter (when the power relay and glow-plug relay are cycling). Glow-plugs are similar to spark plugs and they can be tested. It can be tricky or you can just replace them.

Fuel, this time of year is subject to freeze-ups. Additive will help, noting Diesel additive and NOT gasoline additives. In short, Pyroil makes a starting fuel which has protective oil in the spray to help the cylinders. A spray of starting fluid will diagnose that fuel starvation is the problem. It is tricky to use when the glow-plugs are hot. On injector systems with O rings the cold weather can sometimes cause the O rings to shrink when sitting and leak. Your fuel will run back to the tank. Cranking will not be enough to draw up the fuel. Another way is to change fuel filters BUT to put some diesel into the fuel filter to prime the system. No guaranty that the problem will not reoccur because you have not permanently fixed anything. Hope this helps, if not then something has let loose like a fuelpump.

Did you replace all the glow plugs ?, if not one could be shorting out, I always check new plugs with a OHMS meter , I have found a odd one that was shorted out, Corroded battery terminals or discharged battery can also cause clicking.

not always the golw plugs can be bad and the engine can be low on compression. does it start alot better if you add a gallon of kerosene to 5 gals of desiel? Or a quaart of gas? the glow plugs can be checked with a test light the connectrs are in plain veiw and the wires going to them are big. Follow the wires back to the relay they go straight there, the relay is real close to the battery as it draws alot of power follow the big wire on the battery that doesn't go to the starter and thats the glow plug relay. they last good but the connections get dirty, reconnect all the connectors on itand see with the key on if the glow plug light comes on on the dash that wire that lights the light is the same wire that lights the light fires the glow plugs. You can take the wire off the glow plug( you need to do it anyway it's a yearly service anyway and with a test light connected to power touch the disconnected glow plug with the lights probe and the light should light, not all of them are likly to be bad but if you find two or more just change them all as the ones that aren't out are likly to fail anytime and if you want to drive though the winter you need all the help you can gt. the battery cables and the one going to the glow plug relay are likly to fail at the battery so go over this good It might start fine with just two glow plugs working I'd pick the two center cyclinders or the two outboard ones as once the engine starts it'll keep running long enough to start the other ones. low voltage as your cranking can effect the glow plugs but the relay is suposed to turn the glow plugs off at cranking and time out after they've been on long enough. dirty connections are almost always the problem so clean everthing before you replace anything. Needs cleaned before yu put on new parts anyway and the glow plugs need to be taken out with the right tool or you may end up with a broken off glow plug in your cyclinder head.

Above the Relay Panel is the Auxiliary Relay Panel. Has thirteen positions in it.
6 across the top, 7 across the bottom.

Across the bottom the Glow Plug Relay is the fourth one over from the left. It is Number 10.
(180)

This is not an easy repair. The system has a short or draw on the battery that could be located anywhere. I would take to a good local mechanic. The time involved could be very high in excess of 4 hours just to find the problem.
So taking to a shop you can trust can save you a lot of time. I know auto zone does some basic test to check the charging system. The alternator and starting system to see if there is correct out put on the alternator and if there is a draw on the starter for free. I guess that would be a good place to start.

Good luck

the glow plg system is monitor when the glow plugs are commanded on for more than 35 seconds and when the battery voltage is between 11.5 ans 14 volts. dtc 1395 or 1396 will set on the bank that is reading less than 32 amps or the the bank that is at least 8 1/2 amps lower than the other bank. Loose fitting pins in the circuit connectors causing high resistance or high resistance glow plugs on the circuit could be the cause. A shorted circuit or low-resistance glow plug(s) on the oppisite bank could be the cause. Each bank needs to draw more than 32 amps but not more than 8 1/2 amps apart. Obviuosly your glow plugs are not the problem since you replaced them all. Therefore, in my past experiences I have found the gaskets and/or the injector harness (under the valve covers) to be the culprits. A simple test you can conduct with an amp meter will help determine if you have a glow plug system that is under performing. First let the vehicle sit for at least an eight hour period. Pop the hood and find the Black/Orange wire going from the solenoid to the glow plug relay. place your amp probe around this wire and turn the key to the on position (do not start the engine). You should have an amperage draw at around 200 amp and it will start to drop as the glow plugs warm up. Now if your initial reading is not close to 200 amps, then you have under performing glow plugs. At this point you will have to ohm out each valve cover gasket and each individual injector harness to determine which one is open. At that point replace the defective culprit and clear your Dtc's then recheck.

Hope this helps,

Ron.

if you need connectors and terminals for the glow plug connections under the valve cover, Ford sells then so you don't need a whole $600 harness.

info for your use

Section 03-07B: Glow Plug System 1996 F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Equipped with 7.3L Diesel Engines Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Glow Plug System The 7.3L diesel engine uses a glow plug system which preheats air in the combustion chamber to improve cold engine starting. The system consists of eight glow plugs, the glow plug control module (12B533), powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650), engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor and barometric pressure sensor (BARO sensor) (12A644). The glow plug system is electronically controlled by the powertrain control module. The powertrain control module energizes the glow plugs immediately after the key is placed in the ON position and then determines how long the glow plugs will be on according to the engine oil temperature and the barometric pressure. The required time for the glow plugs to be energized decreases as the engine oil temperature and barometric pressure increase. The glow plugs are self-regulating, and the powertrain control module controls relay ON time. The powertrain control module protects the glow plugs by energizing them for short durations if the battery voltage is abnormally high.

Possible Causes: Insufficient glow plug ON time will not allow enough heat to accumulate in the combustion chamber to easily facilitate starting. If the glow plug system ON time does not meet any of the specifications in the accompanying chart the problem is most likely a faulty wire harness connection, ground connections or glow plug relay.

If the glow plug resistance to ground is high, the most likely causes are an open UVC (under valve cover) harness or open glow plug.
--------------------------------------------------------
Relay Operation
Install a DVOM on the glow plug feed side of the glow plug relay (large stud with two wires connected). Turn the ignition key to the ON position but do not attempt to start. Note the time in seconds from when the key is turned on and the glow plug relay energizes until the glow plug relay de-energizes. The glow plug relay makes a loud click noise which is easily heard when it energizes and de-energizes. The dome light will dim and the dash voltmeter will dip when the glow plugs are drawing current from the battery. Compare the times measured to the table (time will be affected by engine temperature, battery condition and vehicle altitude). The voltage at the glow plug feed terminal may vary from 9 to 12 volts depending upon battery condition.
--------------------------------------

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If battery voltage not present check for B+ at power supply terminal (terminal with single large wire). Power for glow plug power supply is supplied from starter relay through two fusible links at solenoid.
Glow Plug Operation
Disconnect all of the glow plug/injector harness connectors from the valve cover gaskets. With the pigtail installed, measure glow plug resistance to ground (preferably B-). A resistance measurement of .1 to 6 ohms indicates a good glow plug.



Glow Plug Harness Continuity
Measure for continuity from the connector harness to the glow plug feed terminal on the glow plug relay. Resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
Incorrect measurements will result if all glow plug/injector connectors to valve cover are not disconnected.

---------------------------------------------------
Glow Plug Relay The glow plug relay (12A343) has a plastic base and two mounting bolts. It is operated by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) which senses engine oil temperature, PCM voltage and barometric pressure. When the engine oil temperature or the barometric pressure is low, the PCM activates the glow plug relay and the glow plugs. If the PCM voltage is too high, the powertrain control module deactivates the glow plug relay and the glow plugs immediately energize for a shorter duration, decreasing the modulation of the duty cycle.
-----------------------------------------------
Glow Plug Removal

1. WARNING: THE RED-STRIPED WIRING HARNESS CARRIES 115V DC. SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK MAY BE RECEIVED. DO NOT PIERCE.
   Remove valve cover (6582). Refer to Section 03-01D .
   

1. Disconnect glow plug electrical connector using a pair of pliers.
   

1. Remove glow plug using 10mm socket.
   

1. Clean and inspect glow plug tip for damage. Replace if damaged.
   

Installation

1. Install glow plug and tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb-ft).
   

1. Connect glow plug electrical connector. Make sure glow plug wiring is routed to avoid moving parts.
   

--------------------------------------------------------------
Glow Plug Control Glow plugs are used to warm the cylinders to improve cold-engine starting. The PCM uses the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor and barometric pressure (BARO) sensor to determine how long the glow plugs will be on. The PCM energizes the glow plugs longer if the engine is very cold or if the barometric pressure is low at high altitudes.
The PCM controls the relay that supplies power to the glow plugs with the glow plug control (GPC) signal. When the GPC signal is grounded by the PCM the relay closes, turning the glow plugs on.
The glow plugs are controlled by the following sequence:

1. PCM energizes the glow plugs.

1. The PCM energizes the glow plugs immediately after the ignition is placed in the ON position.

1. The PCM then determines how long glow plugs will be on based on EOT sensor and the BARO sensor. The required time to warm up the cylinder decreases the engine oil temperature and barometric pressure increases at low altitudes.

Glow Plug Lamp Control The glow plug lamp (GPL) signal controls the WAIT TO START light located on the instrument panel. This light is used to indicate when to start the engine. The cylinders are being warmed by the glow plugs during and after this light is lit. The PCM energizes the glow plug lamp longer if the engine is very cold or if the barometric pressure is low.
When the GPL signal is brought low, the "Wait to Start" lamp is turned on.
The glow plug lamp is controlled by the following sequence:

1. PCM lights the WAIT TO START light after a key on reset occurs.

The PCM determines the glow plug lamp activation time based on engine oil temperature, barometric pressure and battery voltage.

1. PCM turns off the WAIT TO START light.

The glow plug lamp is turned off when the timer counts to the number of seconds specified by the PCM. The glow plugs will normally remain on longer than the "Wait to Start" lamp.
-----------------------------------

Chgeck for a short by installing a AMP meter at the neg battery terminal, if you have two batteries take one out of the system. After installing meter, with key off see if you have a draw, a small draw of .05 amps is ok, just the memory in the system. If you have a daw check components by disconnecting them ie... the alt. the glow plug and so on. Make sure both batteries are good one can draw down the other

glow plug relay is marked #180 on the housing.
in 0 to 11 degrees they have a starting prob were the glow plugs go on and off very quickly.need VAG.com to exstend glow plug timing.
to test glow plugs disconeect ect turn key on plugs should draw 15 amps each 60 amps all together.if you dont have amp meter use test light.