Question about Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I have an oil leak in the front. It looks like it coming from a bolt that holds engine bracket. Also I have low oil pressure. The oil pressure goes up when I first start it then it go low very fast. I do not the front seal. Do any of the bolt come in contact where the oil flows in the engin??

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Scholar:

    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 167 Answers

HELLO. YES THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN HAS BOLT'S THAT ARE UNDER THE FLY WHEEL.THAT'S WHERE THE FRONT SEAL IS.!! ONE MAYBE TWO THERE.!!! THEN THEY START TO GO ALONG THE SIDE'S OF THE OIL PAN ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK OF IT THEN THERE ARE MAYBE 4 THAT GO'S ARCOSS THE BACK THERE.!!AND NOTHEY DON'T COME IN CONTACT WITH THE OIL FLOW'S THERE ON THE OUT SIDE OF YOUR OIL PAN. U JUST MIGHT NEED TO TIGHTIN THEM UP.? OR U MIGHT HAVE ONE OR MORE MISSING. CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE A YOUR BOLT'S AROUND YOUR OIL PAN, OK LET ME KNOW IF THIS HELP YOU "GOOD LUCK"

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have to lower the front crossmember to remove the oil pan. Is there any precautions I should know about? It is on 2004 jeep liberty 4x4


no engine stated, they even have diesel. or 3.7L GAS.
I toss my first coil, land on 3.7L V6.
great question, like the very first ever.
most just do it and get in trouble. vast posts in this.
but whats up, what is wrong, what part failed.?
this is best to know, so we can send you the official chapter on this from jeep.
sure use jackstands, never jacks only and never bricks .
04,KJ jeep 4wd pan off.
in chapter 9 ,under diagnostics, and pan leaks. that?
it says read
Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL). page 1555 (3.7L)
and i quote:
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheel assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped). (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID
PLATE - REMOVAL)
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Mark adjustment cam position of front lower control
arm bolts.
8. Remove front lower control arm bolts. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL)
9. Disconnect LH tie rod. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL)
10. Disconnect LH lower ball joint (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT -
REMOVAL)
11. Disconnect LH strut clevis (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/CLEVIS BRACKET - REMOVAL)
12. Remove LH front axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
13. Remove front axle brace bolts.
14. Remove front prop shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
15. Drain front axle.
16. Using a transmission jack, support front axle.
17. Remove axle bracket bolts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - REMOVAL)
18. With RH axle still in place, remove front differential.
19. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
20. Remove engine to transmission stiffening bracket.
21. Position Special Tool 8534 on fender lip and align the slots in the brackets with the fender mounting holes.
22. Secure brackets to the fender using four M6 X 1.0 X 25 MM flanged cap screws.
23. Tighten the thumbscrews to secure the sleeves to the support tube.
24. Secure the support tube in an upright position.
25. Assemble the flat washer, thrust bearing, hook and T handle.
26. Using the M10 X 1.75 mm flanged nut supplied with the support fixture, secure the chain to the front engine
lifting stud.
27. Loosen engine mounts.
28. Remove oil pan bolts.
29. Seperate oil pan (1) from engine.
30. Move oil pan to one side, remove oils sump bolt and windage tray bolts,
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come
out with oil pan.
end quote, (off)

Nov 30, 2016 | 2004 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

High temp low oil pressure light comes on after driving for a few minutes, then off when engine at driving rpm. At stop light (idle or low rpm) light comes back on. Normal driving it goes out.


You need to find out why you have low oil pressure. It is normal that as engine rpm's increase, the oil pressure will rise- the oil pump is moving oil faster. Even though your light goes out, you could still have critically low oil pressure. There should be sufficient pressure at idle to keep the light off. The light will come on when your oil pressure is almost nil- I believe for some it's as low as 8 psi. Normally, oil pressure at idle is specified anywhere from 15 to 40 psi. You would have to check specifications for your Expedition. To verify oil pressure, hook up a mechanical gauge at the oil pressure sending unit on the engine block. Check with a local shop.

The causes run from easy, simple to budget busting ruin. Low oil level, wrong grade oil, real old oil, oil leaks, internal oil leaks, worn oil pump, worn crankshaft bearings. It was pretty common on older very high mileage cars to have a fluttering oil light at stops and idle. It was time for a rebuild, or time to look for another car.

Jul 06, 2015 | 2003 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

My 1985 nissan maxima keeps low oil pressure,I constantly have to fill it with up to qts. of oil,any solutions


Place a clean flattened cardboard under your car and see if it's leaking out. If it's not dripping oil, check your radiator for the presence of oil using a dye test kit available at NAPA. If there is a leak coming from under your car, try to determine from where it's dripping. Most common is an oil filter that hasn't been tightened properly or leaking oil sump bolt. A 1/4 turn on the oil filter should stop the leak, if its the sump... a new screw washer for the sump bolt will usually cure that. Check around the sump mounting bolts, if a fresh leak is evident, you will need a new sump gasket, don't try to tighten the existing bolts as it make leak worse! Tighten to torque specs. Otherwise, you are burning it up... exhaust smoke should be dark instead of light gray. White smoke indicates a blown head gasket and the oil is getting into the engine.

Mar 12, 2015 | 1985 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

95 dodge stealth oil leak near oil pump


did you replace the seal on the bolt that holds it on

Apr 17, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Can i remove the oil pan on my 07 ford f-150 with out removing the engine?


Check this procedure on F-Series...

5.4L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. Drain the engine oil.
  4. Disconnect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
  5. Remove the nut and the starter wiring harness support bracket.
  6. Remove the nut and position the transmission oil cooler lines and bracket aside.
  7. Remove the 16 bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
  8. Remove the 3 bolts and position the oil pump screen and pickup tube into the oil pan.
    NOTE Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket. It is reusable.
  9. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump screen and pickup tube.
  10. Inspect the oil pan gasket for damage. If damaged, discard the oil pan gasket and the oil pan-to-oil pump gaskets. Discard the oil pump screen and pickup tube O-ring seal.
To install:
WARNING Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.
  1. Inspect the oil pan. Clean the mating surface for the oil pan with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
  2. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube in the oil pan and position the oil pan into the vehicle.
    WARNING Make sure to install a new O-ring seal. A missing or damaged O-ring seal can cause foam in the lubrication system, low oil pressure and severe engine damage.
    NOTE Clean and inspect the mating surfaces and install a new O-ring seal. Lubricate the O-ring seal with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  3. Position the oil pump screen and pickup tube and install the bolts.
  4. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-oil pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  5. Tighten the oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-spacer bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
  6. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
    NOTE If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
  7. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the engine front cover-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
  8. Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan and loosely install the 16 bolts.
  9. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages, in the sequence shown.
    Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.). Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
  10. Install the wire harness bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  11. Position the starter wiring harness support bracket and install the nut. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  12. Connect the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor electrical connector.
  13. Install the transmission.
  14. Fill the crankcase with clean engine oil.

2_14_2012_4_41_50_pm.jpg

Fig. Remove the bolts and the crossmember-F-150 and Mark LT 5.4L Engine

2_14_2012_4_42_24_pm.jpg

Fig. Position a suitable hydraulic jack under the front axle-F-150 4WD

2_14_2012_4_42_46_pm.jpg

Fig. Remove the upper front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WD

2_14_2012_4_43_07_pm.jpg

Fig. Remove the axle shaft housing carrier bushing bolt-F-150 4WD

2_14_2012_4_43_29_pm.jpg

Fig. Remove the lower front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt-F-150 4WD

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Feb 14, 2012 | 2007 Ford F-150 Super

1 Answer

Timing chain 96 maxima broke


Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

Oct 14, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Had new distributor put 3 days ago , 200 miles , had a slight tick sound so was watching oil carefully, noticed was leaking worse than before, so I changed the oil to put new filter on, drove 4 moles...


  • Hi, for oil to leak that fast you have got a massive leak. The ticking itself could be from low oil. First check the oil plug (where you drain the oil) on the oil pan with will be the bottom most part of the engine. It is possible the plug is not holding tight, the gasket may be old, torn or just plain missing. Sometimes people will strip them oil plugs. When this happens the pan has to be tapped a little over and a new, slightly oil plug installed.

  • On the oil filter housing are oil cooler line that have to hold a lot of pressure. Follow those lines to see if they are leaking oil.

  • I don't see a front seal leaking leaking quite that bad. A valve cover I am not sure would leak quite like that either. Your oil pan gasket could leak like this though. When you check the oil pan plug look strait up to all them little bolt holding the oil pan to the lower part of the engine. If leaking is noted then snug them bolts up or have them snugged up.

  • You may have to throw a piece of cardboard on the ground and crawl underneath with a flashlight and get a better eyeball on the leak. What ever the leak it is massive and should be repaired before driving or you could loose to much oil and seize your engine. The ticking. in my opinion, is the engine telling you it is very low on oil as it is.

  • If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
  • Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Aug 24, 2011 | 1993 Mitsubishi Mirage

1 Answer

Need to change oil pan


e
Cavalier, Sunfire 2001-2005

Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

2.2L (VIN 4) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Right front wheel Right inner fender splash shield Starter motor and bracket Engine mount strut bracket Oil pan
To install:


672c0b8.jpg

Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related components-2.2L (VIN 4) engine
  1. Place a 2mm bead of RTV sealer to the oil pan sealing surface except at the rear seal mounting surface. Using a new oil pan rear seal, apply a thin coat of RTV sealer on the end down to the ears.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    Oil pan with a new gasket. Torque the nuts and bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (66 Nm). Starter motor and bracket. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Right fender splash shield Right front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm). Negative battery cable
  3. Refill the crankcase.
  4. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.
2.2L (VIN F) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Engine mount strut bracket Drive belt Lower then upper AC compressor bolts Oil pan bolts Oil pan

    1c9e9c9.jpg

    Fig. Remove/Install the oil pan bolts in this sequence-2.2L (VIN F) engine
To install:
  1. Apply a 2 mm bead of RTV sealant around the perimeter of the oil pan and the oil suction port opening. Do not over apply the RTV. More than a 2 mm bead is not required.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    Oil pan and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) AC compressor bolts Engine mount bracket Drive belt
  3. Refill the crankcase.
  4. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.

2.4L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Flywheel/converter cover Right wheel Right wheel well splash shield Accessory drive belt Air conditioning compressor lower bolts Transmission-to-engine brace Engine mount strut bracket Radiator outlet pipe bolts Radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan Oil pan to the flywheel cover bolt and nut Flywheel cover stud for clearance Radiator outlet pipe from the lower radiator hose and oil pan Oil level sensor connector Oil pan
To install:
  1. Inspect the oil pan gasket; it is reusable if not damaged.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    Oil pan with the gasket. Torque the M8 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

    2ffc5e9.jpg

    Fig. Oil pan fastener torque specifications-2.4L engine
    Oil pan to the transmission nut Oil level sensor connector Radiator outlet pipe to the lower radiator hose and oil pan Exhaust manifold brace Radiator outlet pipe. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm). Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Transmission to the engine brace Air conditioning compressor lower bolts. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Accessory drive belt Right splash shield Right front wheel Flywheel/converter cover Negative battery cable
  3. Refill the crankcase.
  4. Refill the cooling system.
  5. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.

Hope helped (remember rated this help). Good luck.

Oct 22, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Oil leaks between head and block. Removed head. Can't find cause.


where is oil pressure switch/sensor on 2001 nubira

Oct 01, 2009 | 1999 Daewoo Nubira

3 Answers

Oil pressure light came on engine is knocking like no oil is


hi what what engine?
if it's knocking then most likely damage has been done to the bearings

May 27, 2009 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

153 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dodge Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

70346 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22041 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

6869 Answers

Are you a Dodge Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...