Hi i have a 1995 f150 and i need to replace the radius arm bracket. we worked all day on it today and only got one of the stock rivets almost out. after chiseling away for like an hour we got the head off but cant get it to budge with the punch. i would have used the grinder but i couldnt fit it in the small space. is there an easier way?

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything
someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today
They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine
I got free in offers
3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins
there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this
Try these out brother

31/10.50/15 on a stock pickup. anything bigger will rub on the radius arms and catch the bottom of your bumper when you turn

If you support the truck by the frame with a jackstand,you can just change the bracket,there is no tension on the arm.

First off, if this is the case, you have a bent part some where and it should be straightened or replaced.

You need to adjust the camber to straighten the tire. Some vehicles have a adjustments but MOST use shims to correct for minor assembly tolerances.

Hi Darrell,
No the springs will remain in place,You will need new bolts and nuts before you start the job,they are 1/2 x one inch.you'll need five of them.unfortunately there are three large rivets you will need to torch off besides the other three bolts and nuts. Remove the radius arm nut and outer bushing before you loosen the arm.
good luck

Hi,
Please follow the complete steps as provided bellow.
1. Before you remove anything off the truck, measure the pinion on the front and rear axle differential. Make sure to record this measurement as we will want to put each axle back to this angle after the suspension lift kit is installed. This is especially important for the front axle. Putting the front axle back to the same measurement will keep the stock camber and caster.
2. Jack up the truck and place a jack stand under the frame on each side of the truck. Jack the truck up enough so that the front tires are just barely off the ground. Take a motorcycle strap and wrap the strap around the differential and to the frame. This will help keep the axle in the general proximity while the factory suspension is removed and the 4 link is installed.
3. Remove shock absorbers, coil springs, swing arms, rear swing arm pivot, and sway bar.
4. Use a ¼”drill and drill out the centre of the rivets that hold the coil brackets to the frame. A couple of the rivets you may not be able to drill. Next, use a cut-off wheel, grinder, or rivet buster to remove the heads of the bolts. You can use a torch, but it will be more difficult to punch out the rivets. Chances are you will have to use a grinder and grind the **** off the rivets flush with the stamped part.
5. Locate upper bag mount and drill out the four 3/8” rivet holes in side of the frame to ½” Bolt the brackets to the side of frame using the four ½” grade 8 bolts. Make sure to check the back side of the frame for brake lines, fuel lines and on the Excursion, heater lines.
6. Locate rear trailing arm bracket and fasten to the frame using the ½”bolts provided. You will first have to remove the factory transmission cross member. It will be required to drill the (4) holes in the bottom of the frame. Be careful not to drill into any fuel lines. After you fasten the two brackets to the frame, install the new cross member. Fasten into place using the 5/8” bolts. Fasten the transmission into place using the factory nuts.
7. Locate the lower air bag mount; position this part on top of the axle. On the passenger side you will need to drill a ½” hole in the flat part of the axle. There is no drilling on the drivers’ side. Fasten into place using the 14mm metric bolt. If you use the factory bolt, it will need to be shortened about ½”. Locate the cross member that connects the two bag mounts in place. Fasten using the ½” x 1 ½” bolts.
Step 8. Locate the upper and lower trailing arms. Install the arms so that the upper arms are the same length and the lower arms are the same length. Try and install so the pinion angle is close to original.
Thanks for contacting www.Fixya.com

Pretty easy for the regular backyard mechanic to do. First drive up to a pretty good sized tree so you are almost directly in front of it head on. loosen the nut on the back. Using a come along pul the front left side to pull your radius arm from the hanger. change out the front bushing and loosen the come along slowly so you can line the radius arm back into the hanger....a jack may be needed even though I have never had to use one. once the radius arm is back in place replace the rear bushings and torque to 200 ft lbs. i think its 200 ft lbs but check with a repair manual or ask a mechanic to make sure.

Hope this helps yah cause I have done it this way on alot of vehicles I have owned and it doesnt cost nearly what it does to take it in and have it professionaly done. And it only takes about 45 minutes to do a side. But do both if replacing the bushings on one side, always do the other also.

Door Glass, Front Removal

1. Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05. CAUTION: Prior to removing center pins from the rivet, it is recommended that a suitable block support be inserted between door outer panel and glass bracket to stabilize glass during rivet removal. Remove center pin from each rivet with a drift punch. Using a 1/4-inch diameter drill, drill out remaining rivets as damage to plastic glass retainer and spacer could result.
   

1. Remove two rivets attaching glass to run and bracket assembly.

1. Remove glass.

1. Remove drillings and pins from bottom of door.

Installation

1. Snap plastic retainer and spacer into two glass retainer holes. Make certain that metal washer in the retainer assembly is on outboard side of glass.

1. Insert glass into door.

1. Position glass to glass bracket. Install two rivets to secure glass to glass bracket. NOTE: Two 1/4-inch-20 x 1-inch bolts and two 1/4-inch-20 nut and washer assemblies may be used as alternates for glass retention. However, torque must not exceed 4-7 Nm (36-61 lb-in). Equivalent metric retainers (6mm) may be used.
   

1. Install door trim panel and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05.

2-Door Vehicles






4-Door Vehicles

wow, a lot of work to do.

Window Regulator, Front Door, Explorer Removal
WARNING: IF THE REGULATOR COUNTERBALANCE SPRING MUST BE REMOVED OR REPLACED FOR ANY REASON, MAKE SURE THAT THE REGULATOR ARMS ARE IN A FIXED POSITION PRIOR TO REMOVAL TO PREVENT POSSIBLE INJURY DURING C-SPRING UNWIND.

1. Remove front door trim panel and front door trim shield . Refer to Section 01-05B .

1. Remove inside door belt weatherstrip and glass stabilizer.

1. Remove front door window glass as described in this section.

1. Remove two nut and washer assemblies attaching the equalizer bracket.

1. Remove three rivets (manual) or four rivets (power) attaching the regulator base plate to front door trim panel finish panel (23712) .

1. Remove window regulator electric drive and front door window channel bracket from vehicle.

1. Working on a bench, carefully bend tab flat to remove arm slides from front door window channel bracket .

1. Install new window regulator electric drive arm plastic guides into front door window channel bracket and bend tab back to 90 degrees. Use care not to break tab; if tab is cracked or broken, replace front door window channel bracket . Make sure rubber bumper is installed properly on new front door window channel bracket , if replacement is made.
   
   
   
   

Installation
NOTE: The front door window channel bracket and window regulator electric drive are installed into the vehicle as one assembly. The front door window channel bracket may be disassembled from the window regulator electric drive as described in Steps 7 and 8 of Window Regulator, Removal.

1. Install front door trim panel finish panel with preassembled glass bracket into vehicle. Set the regulator base plate to window regulator electric drive using base plate locator tab as a guide.

1. Install three (manual) or four (power) rivets (385189-S100) to attach regulator to front door trim panel finish panel . Two 1/4-20 x 1-inch bolts and two 1/4-20 nut and washer assemblies may be used as alternates for glass retention. However, torque must not exceed 4-7 Nm (3-5 ft-lb). Equivalent metric retainers may be used.
   

1. Install equalizer bracket.

1. Install inside door belt weatherstrip and glass stabilizer.

1. Lower regulator arms to access holes in front door trim panel finish panel . Install front door window glass as outlined.

1. Adjust glass to ensure proper alignment with glass run. Cycle glass for smooth operation.

1. Install front door trim panel and front door trim shield . Refer to Section 01-05B .

There is a few things that can cause that,..#1 is the axle shaft universal could be worn out and to check it grab the axle shaft and try to twist it back and forth to check if its loose..#2 could be the brake caliper loose or the brakes are moving around in the caliper,#3 also could be the radius arm bracket cracked at the radius arm itself which is about a $25.00 part (not including the bushings which are about $15.00 a set)check these things as my 94 Bronco has been through all of every sound and clunk with 230,00 miles