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Posted on Jul 29, 2008
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1981 corvette blower motor getting no powere has power at fuse block but no where else blower motor runs with jumper wire

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Marvin

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  • Chevrolet Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 29, 2008
Marvin
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Joined: Jun 20, 2008
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Check the blower speed control resistor pack, it is located in the air stream near the blower motor, that is most likely the cause of the inop blower, but be warned if the blower is drawing to much current due to wear the resistor will fail again, I believe the connector has four wires, 2 are heavy Gage

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Dodge 2004 caravan. I have No power to the plug at front fan switch. I have power to resistor and motor, but no power to the switch. This should be an easy fix right? Any help would be great.

as you can see at the front blower motor, in the diagram, the top wire is voltage, the bottom wire is ground. So the thermal fuse and resistors as well as speed controls are all on the ground circuit. The bottom four wires in diagram are for the different speeds, hi--lo--m1--m2. For testing, you could use jumper wires to the blower motor for voltage and ground and from the battery, the motor should run. If not suspect the blower motor. If you use jumpers probably should use inline fuse, just in case.
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Blower motor 2009 saturn vue doesn't come on, fuse is good, what next?

DISCONNECT THE BLOWER MOTOR POWER LEAD. RUN A "FUSED" (20AMP) HOT JUMPER WIRE TO POSITIVE SIDE OF CONNECTOR,THEN TO BATTERY POSITIVE, THEN RUN A NEG. WIRE BACK TO NEG. AT BATTERY (TO INSURE A FULL CIRCUIT).
IF BLOWER WORKS...YOU HAVE A SWITCH,WIRING, OR FUSE/CIRCUIT BREAKER PROBLEM.NEXT CHECK FOR POWER INTO BUT NOT OUT OF SWITCH...IF THIS IS THE CASE THE SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM.
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Air and heat blower will not come on. 1998 sonoma 2.2l

start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.
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I have replace the blower switch pigtail rerister still no blower working could it be the relay if it is where is it ? the blower motor and relay are the only two things left to change need help thanks

Do you have power to the blower motor?

With everything connected there should be power on both wires going to the blower motor. If there is no power than remove the blower motor relay in the fuse block under the hood. There should be power at two of the pins and two of the pins should be grounded. One pin is powered by the 50 amp Blower fuse and the other gets its power from the function selector (the switch that controls where the air comes out.

If only one pin has power than pull the 50amp blower fuse If power goes away than you know that the relay is not recieving power from the function selector. That is powered by a 15 amp fuse in the cetral fuse block (under the dash i think). If that fuse is good than check for power at the pink with black wire at the function switch. If there is power there tan check for power at the yellow with red wire and the function switch. If there is no power than you have a bad function switch.

This is a ground side controlled blower motor. The speed switch controls the path to ground. so if there is power to the blower motor on the orange with red wire you can ground the orange with black wire at the blower motor and it should run.

That should be enough info to get you started. Let me know what you find and I'll be happy to help further.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

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check all ur fuses as a first step, should be under the drivers side of dash, usually the most common fault, if not check for power at the unit itself
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Blower motor 92 dodge ram 5.9 deisel

Have you checked for any blown fusible links & fuses under hood?
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My 81' vet

The windows are electric. They have electric motors that raise, or lower, the window up and down. Power to the electric motors comes from the window switches. One window switch for each door window. Power to the window switches comes from the fuse panel.

First thing to do, is to check the fuse in the fuse panel, for the windows. If you do not know which fuse it is, and it is not marked on your fuse panel cover anymore, I invite you to go to your nearest auto parts store, and buy a manual of your Corvette.

The next thing to do is to remove the window switch that corresponds to the window that doesn't work. Turn the ignition switch to On, and use a multimeter to test it. Set the multimeter to DC volts, and the 50 volt scale.
If you don't have a multimeter, I invite you to buy a cheap one. They're usually about $12 dollars.

Find a non-painted surface for a good ground. The Black probe lead is the Ground lead. (Negative) I usually try to find a clean, non-painted surface, that I can wedge the tip of the Negative probe lead into. Frees up your hands.

Use the Red (Positive) probe lead, and touch it to one of the terminals of the window switch. One of those terminals should be 'Hot'.

If not, you are not getting power to the window switch. Your problem goes towards the fuse panel.

If so, your window switch is bad.

Fuses and window switches, are two of the most common problems.

If you aren't getting power, it could be that a wire has the insulation rubbed through, and is shorting out. Or it could be that fuse.

If you are getting power to the window switch, then it may be a wire to the window motor that is bad. Or it could be the window motor itself.
After 28 years, your window motors have seen a lot of usage. Also the door seals shrink for the windows, and this allows rain, or snow to make it's way into the door. Right down to the window motor. If you are a Corvette owner that always keeps their Corvette garaged, and NEVER takes it out in the rain, don't be hatin' me! lol!
Obviously a rusted window motor is not your problem!

It may be that the Ground wire to the window motor, has developed corrosion on it's terminal end.
(Isn't wiring Fun? (!)

You can test the window motor, by using a jumper wire connected to a good ground, and alligator clipped to the Ground terminal of the window motor. Then use a Hot jumper wire, and touch the Positive terminal of the window motor. You will see a spark when touching. Just wanted to warn you. Don't be standing in water as you do this test!

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