1997 Isuzu Trooper Logo
Benito Betancourt Posted on Mar 02, 2011
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Transmission is fixed, has a new TPS and a new Oxygen sensor. After these last 2 things was install (past sunday). Vehicle now doesn't sound too accellerated but I still continue having problems with the transmission shifting late and in ocasions it stays accelerated while in movement and I have to shift it manually for it to stop. I'm going nuts with the problem and I feel like throwing it down a cliff. What can it be that no mechanic can't seem to find the problem.

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Joseph Prosser

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  • Master 780 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2011
 Joseph Prosser
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Dont throw it off a cliff just yet :-) Just check the vacuum line from the inlet manifold back to the transmission, ensure that fittings are air tight and that there are no holes in the line.
Explanation for possible fix:- When the car is at idle the inlet manifold plenum has a reasonably high vacuum generated within it. The vacuum line to the transmission conveys this drop in pressure to the shift solenoid. When you accelerate slowly you hardly open the throttle and the vacuum remains high in the system. The solenoid allows early shifts through to the higher gears. If you accelerat hard the throttle is open wide and hardly any vacuum is maintained. The shift solenoid, in the absence of vacuum in the line, now holds each gear for much longer allowing the engine to use its full power band.
If the inlet plenum suffers from an air leak or the vacuum line to the transmission becomes loose or a leak develops in it the solenoid reads this as if the car is accelerating hard and wants to hold each gear for as long as possible. This situation sounds like your problem so check that everything is free of any possible leak. If you find a leak and cure it not only will the shift pattern be fixed but your engine idle will be much better too.

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1answer

My 1996 GF1 impreza just wants to run at 2000rpm. This happens when i engage the gear. When i disconnect the throtle position sensor,everything cools off, adjusting the same sensor while connected...

Hi.

From your description it looks like you have a defective TPS (The TPS is the position sensor on top of the throttle body that you are disconnecting).

Signal from the TPS is very important for different vehicle's functions. Among other thing the TPS output is used by the electronic ignition system to determine the fuel mixture being injected and by the automatic transmission to determine when to change gear. In your case the transmission was probably not shifting into higher gears, for that reason the engine was not revving above 2K rpm.

The TPS can be tested reading voltage at its terminals while someone operates the throttle pedal. Voltage must increase/decrease smoothly and stay in range, otherwise the TPS must be replaced.

As said at start your problem is likely a defective TPS. The fault is quite common and it is fixed replacing the TPS.

Regards.

Ginko
1helpful
1answer

Where is the o2 sensor on a 2004 blazer located

Removal & Installation

Raise and support the vehicle.
Support rear of the powertrain frame.
Remove four rear frame bolts.
Lower the frame no more than 73.2 mm (3 inches).
Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the rear oxygen sensor from the rear exhaust manifold.

To install:

Install the rear oxygen sensor in the rear exhaust manifold. Tighten the rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) sensor to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the rear oxygen sensor connector.
Raise the frame.
Install the four rear frame bolts. Tighten the frame bolts to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.


Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 (HO2S 1/1)

WARNING: Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

11_14_2011_1_39_03_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1

Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 (HO2S 1/2)

CAUTION
Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

WARNING: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

11_14_2011_1_40_07_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2

Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the heat shield.
Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the heated oxygen sensor.

To install:

Install the heated oxygen sensor. Tighten the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector. CAUTION
Ensure connectors are securely installed beneath harness heat shield to prevent damage.
Install the heat shield.
Lower the vehicle.


Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 (HO2S 2/1)

CAUTION: Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

WARNING: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the air deflector.
Disconnect the front oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the front oxygen sensor from the front exhaust manifold.

11_14_2011_1_37_39_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1

To install:
Install the front oxygen sensor in the front exhaust manifold. Tighten the front HO2S sensor to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the front oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Install the air deflector.
Lower the vehicle.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.
0helpful
1answer

Location of oxygen sensor on 2004 blazer check engine light keeps coming on. Replaced sensor no change. At bank 1 sensor is not connected when tested.

Removal & Installation

Raise and support the vehicle.
Support rear of the powertrain frame.
Remove four rear frame bolts.
Lower the frame no more than 73.2 mm (3 inches).
Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the rear oxygen sensor from the rear exhaust manifold.

To install:

Install the rear oxygen sensor in the rear exhaust manifold. Tighten the rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) sensor to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the rear oxygen sensor connector.
Raise the frame.
Install the four rear frame bolts. Tighten the frame bolts to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.


Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 (HO2S 1/1)

WARNING: Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

11_14_2011_1_39_03_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1

Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 (HO2S 1/2)

CAUTION
Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

WARNING: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

11_14_2011_1_40_07_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2

Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the heat shield.
Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the heated oxygen sensor.

To install:

Install the heated oxygen sensor. Tighten the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector. CAUTION
Ensure connectors are securely installed beneath harness heat shield to prevent damage.
Install the heat shield.
Lower the vehicle.


Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 (HO2S 2/1)

CAUTION: Handle the oxygen sensors carefully in order to prevent damage to the component. Keep the electrical connector and the exhaust inlet end free of contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents on the sensor. Do not drop or mishandle the sensor.

CAUTION: Remove oxygen sensors with the engine temperature above 48C (120F). Otherwise the oxygen sensors may be difficult to remove.

WARNING: A special anti-seize compound is used on the oxygen sensor threads. New service sensors should already have the compound applied to the threads. Coat the threads of a reused sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 5613695 or equivalent.

Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the air deflector.
Disconnect the front oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Remove the front oxygen sensor from the front exhaust manifold.

11_14_2011_1_37_39_pm.jpg

Fig. Showing the location of the HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1

To install:
Install the front oxygen sensor in the front exhaust manifold. Tighten the front HO2S sensor to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
Connect the front oxygen sensor electrical connector.
Install the air deflector.
Lower the vehicle.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.
1helpful
1answer

2001 escape 6cyl revving in park and neutral. Recently replaced TPS to fix a low idle problem as well as new intake gaskets upper and lower to ASSURE no vacuum leaks?... any help appreciated

The TPS would have been my first suggestion, but, something that can cause similar idle issues is your Oxygen sensor, ( although that generally triggers your check engine light. )

A bad oxygen sensor inables the computer system to determine the proper fuel / air ratio.

You may also have a sensor on the transmission itself that effects the idle, I know some vehicles do, I'm just at a lose for the moment, of the correct name of the part.

I hope this helps you.
1helpful
2answers

I have an 1998 Chevy Blazer and need to change the catalytic converter, are the flange bolts welded and can i cut them

Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:
Catalytic converter 2.2L engine gm-03-22-734.gif

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter.
  4. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
  5. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
  6. Remove the catalytic converter from the rear hanger bracket insulator.
  7. Remove the catalytic converter.
  8. Remove the (HO2S) from the catalytic converter.
To Install:
  1. Install the (HO2S) to the catalytic converter.
  2. Install a new gasket and the catalytic converter to the muffler.
  3. Install catalytic converter to the catalytic converter hanger.
  4. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the muffler flange.
    • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
  5. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the exhaust manifold pipe flange.
    • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
  6. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  7. Lower the vehicle.
------ Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 4.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Raise and support the transmission.
  3. Remove the transmission support
  4. Disconnect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  5. Disconnect the post-converter (HO2S) connector. Muffler flange and gasket gm-03-43-731.gif

  6. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
  7. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
  8. Remove the exhaust manifold flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter. Catalytic converter 4.3L engine gm-03-43-735.gif

  9. Remove the catalytic converter from the support bracket insulator.
  10. Remove the catalytic converter and gaskets.
  11. Remove the heated oxygen sensor.
To Install:
  1. Install the heated oxygen sensors as needed.
  2. Install a new gasket and the Install the catalytic converter to the support bracket insulator.
  3. Install the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold flange. Install the mounting nuts.
    • Tighten to 39 ft lbs (53 Nm).
  4. Using a new flange gasket, install the catalytic converter to the muffler. Install the mounting nuts.
    • Tighten to 30 ft lbs (40 Nm).
  5. Connect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
  6. Connect the post-converter (HO2S) electrical connector.
  7. Install the transmission support.
  8. Lower the transmission.
  9. Lower the vehicle.
prev.gif next.gif ---
It looks like you can cut them and replace them with new bolts and nuts.prev.gif next.gif
8helpful
1answer

The Drive light flashes and the car loses power and sometimes won't start.

It is either your Vehicle Speed Sensor (easy to change) or your Automatic Transmission Computer (capacitors burn out on these boards, there is a fix for this too, the picture is at the bottom of this page). You need to diagnose by removing the lower right plastic kick panel on the passenger side. There you will find a blue plug. With the car OFF stick a paper clip, wire or stuff the plug with foil to make electrical connection so that the two terminals are touching. Then, turn the ignition to ON (not enough to start it though, just power it up). When you do this, count the blinks in the "D Light" or count your blinking Check Engine Light. Both are different but can refer to different things wrong with your car. A long blink is the first number and the short blinks that follow are the second number.
So imagine this as being 14 : ___ _ _ _ _

Below is a decoding chart:

The first section will be the check engine light codes, the next one is the Transmission Control Unit Codes read from the D Light;

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

bf68ebb.jpg
2helpful
1answer

1991 accord, auto trans: green sport light is flashing. WHY???

It is either your Vehicle Speed Sensor (easy to change) or your Automatic Transmission Computer (capacitors burn out on these boards, there is a fix for this too, the picture is at the bottom of this page). You need to diagnose by removing the lower right plastic kick panel on the passenger side. There you will find a blue plug. With the car OFF stick a paper clip, wire or stuff the plug with foil to make electrical connection so that the two terminals are touching. Then, turn the ignition to ON (not enough to start it though, just power it up). When you do this, count the blinks in the "S Light" or count your blinking Check Engine Light. Both are different but can refer to different things wrong with your car. A long blink is the first number and the short blinks that follow are the second number.
So imagine this as being 14 : ___ _ _ _ _

Below is a decoding chart:

The first section will be the check engine light codes2_bing.gif, the next one is the Transmission Control Unit Codes read from the S Light;

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
b9fa7bc.jpg
2helpful
1answer

Transmission down-shifts eratically

I doubt it, try replacing the transmission control unit (TCM) or transmission computer. Follow these links so you can learn more and hopefully be able to diagnose your problem better. Link 2, Link 3 and Link4. I think your problem is electrical, bad sensor(s) or computer(s). Speed Sensors. Check out the links here and let me know how this information applies to the problem you're having.
1helpful
1answer

Regarding the P024 Code

Hi. you can drive this vehicle around town for a while but, i wouldn't take it out to far away from the city. you don't want to get caught on an open interstate and lose the ecm. Here are some things you can check on during the troubleshooting process if you are doing it yourself.

1) Defective or corroded VSS connections
2) Maladjusted TPS sensor. The TPS should read about 0.42 volts at closed throttle
3) Defective speedometer cable
4) Bad or missing speedo drive gear(s) in tail shaft housing of the transmission
5) Defective VSS(possibility)
6) Defective ECM(possibility)

Please rate and god bless:)
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