Hi i bought a mazda 323 1996 3 door hatch se. when you wire the alternator up it blows the main power fuse and makes the battery hot. i need a new alternator but there is a plug with wires on the back of the alternator and the wire that bolts on but theres a white wire coming off the top, do you think this would be a earth wire or somthing else?
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YES Kelly that fuse will keep the vehicle from starting, If you install a new fuse and it blows again you most likely have a shorted alternator, to check it out, simple unhook the power wire from the back of the alternator, install a new fuse and if it does not blow again then replaced the alternator with a new one. CAUSION: Please be very careful not to let the power wire from the alternator touch anything be cause it can melt something. Best way is to unhook the battery, take the wire off and wrap it with a towel then hook the battery back up and do your test with the fuse. Hope this helps and please visit my auto-repair-website:
The main fuse usually only goes between the battery and the starter and the alternator. I'd bet the starter wire insulation is cut through by one of the wire ties or at the starter. If the wire got hot , which if it's blowing a 50a fuse , it did, check any heavy gage wires coming from that fuse to the batt and starter and alternator
Usually that fuse powers the alternator and the fuse box. It would have to be a big short to ground to blow that fuse. Its possible the main wire to the alternator is touching a metal spot, or the alternator is shorting out inside when it is running. What is draining the battery may be something else, or the battery could be discharging after the fuse blows if the alternator is not charging it.
Battery power passes through the 100A MAIN fuse in the main fuse box and is connected to the alternator by a BLK/WHT wire. There is a 50A IG KEY fuse that supplies power to the ignition switch. If you accidentally zapped either the LT GRN/WHT or WHT/BLU wire to the BLK/WHT wire, they connect to the PCM. As for your "oops", we all know better but we've all done something like that
Your alternator went out and when the battery dropped too low the vehicle died. Without the alternator and no battery you have no power to run the electronics. Have the Alternator tested to find out if it is the alternator or the Voltage regulator and replace the bad one. Then recharge the battery and start the vehicle. It is possible you lost a Main Bus Fuse in the power distribution box or an in-line fuse on the positive wire but based on what you said it is the Alternator.
In the main connector to the battery positive are the fusable liks for the headlights and the altenastor you can find a bad one by pulling on them as if they come apart easily their bad. This is for the big wire on the back of the altenator. Theirs two wires in the plug one is hot all the tyime and the other is hot with the key on( this wire comes from the battery light) The gauges fuse powers them and if the temp gauge and the fuel gfauge work the fuse is likly good. If the altenator is
nt chatrging and all the wires at the altentaor are hot with the engine running ( not just the key on) then the altenator needs to be renuilt or replaced. Sometimes you can get it apart yourself and put brushes in it but most of the time this takes pratice and experience to do this correctly and the proper testing techniquies to get it right as the store sell rebuilt units for exchange. Always disconnect the battery to work on the altenatore wireing and when your problem is corrected right the battery fully charged up as the altenator is'nt a battery charger and can overheat and fail if it;s treated like one.
If there is no power supply to the main terminal on the alternator then you have either a fusible link problem or a broken wire from the fusible link to the alternator.
You need to check continuity and also check the main fusible links, which look like wires just looped over.
you need to replace the cluster if you can find the "exact" model in a junk yard with "low" miles then get that one otherwise it might be best to buy new and you need to have the "body control module" checked. all widows and doors work? have it checked but your cluster is fried.