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Feb 2, 2014 - Uploaded by FordTechMakuloco
I have a 2005 F150 FX4 and the hubs seem to lock intermittently.... of the tire, but the driver side CV shaft remains engaged with the tire even when ... What happens when can not get INTO 4wdLights come on here the clunk have .... 1994-2015 Ford F150 5.4L & 4.6L VCT Solenoid Replacement - Duration: ...
I really don't know quite how to tell you this. Everything seems to be working just fine buy your question. When your using 4 wheel drive, you engage the hubs first, then push the 4 wheel drive button or turn the switch. Ease it in and out of gear or shift on the move and you should be in 4 wheel drive at this point. To take it out of 4 wheel drive, reverse this procedure. Turn the switch off and ease forward and you will be out of 4 wheel drive. If your not going to use your 4x4, turn the hubs out to reduce ware on the axles. If you will be using 4x4 again soon, leave the hubs in and all you have to do is turn the switch to 4x4 and your set to go. I hope I explained this well enough. Good luck.
Assume for an instant that the transfer case is actually working. The next area to check is the hub actuators or that the front hubs are actually engaging to drive the wheels. Remember it requires both hubs to be locked in for the 4x4 to work or else if only one hub is locked then the front diff will work and all the drive will be to the wheel that is not locked in
The cost to check is really cheap. just jack the front off the ground and see if both wheels are engaged . Do this by placing in 4x4 and have a friend hold a wheel while you turn the other wheel or try to turn the other wheel. BY holding one wheel ,if the hubs are locked in then you will not be able to turn your wheel. Ensure that the transmission is in gear as if you are driving the vehicle.
If your truck has Vacume actuated hubs check the vacume lines running to the hubs right behind the brake rotor. If it has the electronic actuated hubs, check connectors / and or replace actuator motor on the front diff. Also possible Transfer case motor seized if you have push button 4x4
There are issues with the 4x4 system I.w.e ends ingesting moisture/water into vacuum actuation system causing no 4x4 or ratcheting outboard I.w.e ends. (Even if you don't go 4x4'n ) pull off vacuum hoses @ I.w.e ends and check for moisture/water/rust also the I.w.e is not part of the wheel bearing itself It is the part on the axle side (inboard) of the spindle. (EVEN DEALERS CAT LISTED WRONG )Many shops just replace the wheel bearing side this may fix the symptom but not the true cause of damaged I.w.e. ! Check with a reputable dealer they should have info on this condition and repair procedure. The integrated wheel end (IWE) system contains the following: Vacuum reservoir IWE solenoid IWEs (spring loaded vacuum hubs) Vacuum hoses Check valve The IWE system uses vacuum hubs that engage the front wheel hubs to the front halfshafts or disengage the front wheel hubs from the front halfshafts The IWE solenoid receives engine vacuum from the vacuum reservoir. When the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) supplies a ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front halfshafts). In 4WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front halfshafts.
check both front lockouts,1 side or the other could have broken,unlock 1 side and reach underneath and try turning the axel on the other side-----if it turns all the way around, then replace that lockout,if it doesnt turrn then try unlocking that side and lock in the other side and see if you can turn it,if so then replace that lockout.if not then something might be wrong with the transfercase to the way it engages
Tire and wheel assemblyCaliper and rotorWheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckleElectrical connection for the wheel speed sensorFront drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive modelsHub and bearing assembly mounting boltsHub and bearing assemblyO-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore (2500 series)
Clean and inspect the O-ring seal
Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing assembly.
Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle (2500 series).
Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assemblyHub and bearing assembly mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive modelsElectrical connection for the wheel speed sensorWheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).RotorTire and wheel assembly.
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It could be several things. The first thing that comes to mind is your u-joint(s) on your front drive shaft. Try turning it by hand, if it has some play in it, it needs to be replaced. There are many other things that can cause your clicking noise tho:
Ball joints Wheel bearing/wheel hub Sway bar links
If your clicking noise sounds more like a "electrical" click, Then you might have to try following the noise and give more details about your problem.
I have the same problems but found the problem. Put a vacuum pump on the hub and see if there is any. I have one that has 30 inches of vacuum and one with zero. The only solution I found was to buy a used one from a salvage yard. The hand vacuum pump is only $40 but you will save over a $1000 doing this.