Question about Mazda MX-5 Miata

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Just replaced master cylinder. It's been bled 4 times. The first 3 times my clutch stopped working (due to air) within 24 hours. The last time it was bled it worked for 4 days. All was good until I parked my car for 2 days. Went to start it and clutch has no resistance (more air- Woo Hoo)! Can you help me figure out what the prob is??!!

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  • cclark222 Jul 29, 2008

    I am a total girl so I just want to make sure I am understanding what you are saying. When the master was replaced it didn't seal??

  • cclark222 Jul 29, 2008

    thank you so much!!! you are the best!!

  • Anonymous Oct 30, 2008

    So what is the correct spacing?



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  • Master
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Incorrect spacing of link to cylinder...accordianman

Posted on Jul 29, 2008

  • Michael Borelli Jul 29, 2008

    It will seal Okay, but the spacing is critical. If done incorrectly, the cyclinder will "leak down" and cause those symptoms..accordianman



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My question is what needs replaced? The clutch? Master and slave cylinder? I don't want to order parts I don't need so if anyone else has run into this please don't hesitate to help a fellow out

I would suggest looking at your slave cylinder first . Check for obvious signs of leaking . That is what generally goes out first then losing your fluid your master cylinder goes out or at very least needs to be bled . Sounds more like your master has also gone out .

Nov 17, 2014 | 1993 Dodge Dakota

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Bled gmc S-15 clutch with 4 cylinder 2.8L motor. Clutch pedal is very soft but I have bled it for 2 days and get no air bubbles.I even took slave cylinder off and rigged it to bleed directly into clutch...

Are both the master and slave cylinders new? I have installed a new brake master cylinder that would not bleed. I tried for several hours. I ended up having to replace it. If you can rebuild them that is an option. But usually those parts are fairly cheap. I suggest for decent prices on those parts. I would also replace the hose while I was at it.

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How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.


1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

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My gfs 1999 2.0L Vw beetle with a manual transmission is hard to shift and gets worse as she drives it. I drove it to work one time, an hour drive, it was tough to go into 1st and 2nd gear. By the time I...

One thing you might check is to see if the clutch master cylinder is dry.
You might have 2 master cylinders under the hood, right in front of the driver's seat.
The larger one is the brake master cylinder, if you have a smaller one, it is for the clutch.
If it is empty, your brake fluid has likely leaked out, probably due to a leaking slave cylinder.
The slave cylinder is inside or outside the transmission by the clutch area.
Adding brake fluid will likely not fix it, because the system has air in it, and it needs repair and to be "bled".
Be blessed.

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If you have the non adjustable clutch push rod, the adjustment proceedure is to remove the clutch rod arm from the clutch shaft under the dash and reclock it so it pushes the clutch rod in farther...also check to make sure the master cylinder is full of dot 3 fluid and the system has no air in it.

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Some times the first bleed after changing the Master Cylinder doesn't get all the air out of the system. It sounds like an air bubble or two have "traveled" to the brake cylinders. Try bleeding them again.

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Sounds like the seal in the new clutch master cylinder. I've seen that same problem in the hand brake system in small 2 and 4 seat airplanes. ( I'm and aircraft mechanic) The problem is not air in the lines so bleeding won't help. The piston seal is intermittantly failing to seal. That is whty the function can return without any apparent reason as the seal has seated itself. The only cure is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder. ( Yes, even new or rebuilt ones can have a defective or improperly installed piston seal)

Hope this helps

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