The negative terminal on my battery was loose. I cleaned it and greased it and the problem seems to be gone just the guest pointed out.
You should check all of your frame ground connections and check for parasitic draw.
I have had a problem that I think were attributed to some loose wires or corroded wires attached to the starter. All power was gone when the trying to turn over the engine, but there wasn't even a click.
The first time this happened, I thought it was going to be the battery or alternator, but the mechanics were able to just reattach or re-clip the wires so they didn't short out.
Hi Jason_F150,
Everything you've described points to the battery.
You said it was recently replaced. By a new one?
If so, then the battery problems are the more visual symptoms of the real problem (we'll get to that).
Symptoms Walk Through:
If there's no power when the engine is off - Battery problem Normal power when it's running - Alternator OK.
That clicking sound? Starter solenoid's click like that when underpowered - Battery Low - not completely dead
If the charging system is working, the battery won't trigger an error.
Check it: Get a volt meter.
While it's stopped, check the battery. Is it Low?
Now start it. Check again. +13V?
Questions:
Batteries (especially new ones) don't just die.
The real question:
What is killing your battery?
With
the ignition off, ensure the systems that should be off actually are
off. For example: does the radio still come on? Wipers? Etc.?
In the same vein, has anything new been installed lately? (Like aftermarket radio, etc)
The
next test is to track a power drain. You will need a test light, needle
nose pliers (to pull fuses) and the proper tools to remove the negative
battery terminal.
At this point there are too many 'What if's'. Which system has the drain will determine the next steps to be taken.
These procedures will allow us to focus in on the problem area. Let me know what you find out. We will take it from there.
This will help
Mike
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this device might be on a relay check under the hood for a power distribution box.. and see if there is a relay for this .. under the lid of this box is a diagram telling you which relay is which .. thanks Jerry
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Right behind alternator on engine block look from underneath,Ps between starter and alt.
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They are at 12 o clock bottom and top. The bottom is easy the top you need to look at it like a clock if you aren't satisfied with that take a straight edge and align it withe the bottom mark. Make sure that on the top sprocket that the letters FRT faces you when installing and not the engine. Another thing before putting the timing cover on sand every area with 100 grit sand paper and take a screw driver and scrape out every bit of sealicon on the bottom of the oil pan. Use RTV sealant and if you sand it just enough to make a rough area...the sealant will keep any oil from seeping out and your be glad that you did that later.
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I think the best method is to buy the entire master/slave unit which comes prebled. I have seen them for sale on ebay, but you can also get them at autozone and advance. Basically the same unit fits all SL-series.
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120 inch/lb (10 ft/lb.) out of my field service manual
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I have a 1997 Saturn SW2 (W=wagon) dual overhead cam. I have owned my car since it was new and it has never had this problem until today. The car has 128,000 miles on it.
After work I parked at the grocery store. When I came out and turned the key all the power went out. The batter was replaced about 6 months ago and is working fine. The radio lost it's presets and and the clock reset. The headlights would not work, the horn etc. No power at all. I checked the fuses and they were ok. I waited a bit and everything was back to normal and the car started right up.
When I got home I turned the ignition key slowly and it started 4x in a row. But then it happened again everything normal until I turned to the the position where the starter spins and everything went black.
I changed the passenger side CV axle last week and the manual transmission oil ( I used gear oil instead of atf). I spilled a bunch of gear oil and maybe that is getting on the ground in the starter area.
I will post an update.
I have exactly the same problem. Some days, starts fine. Other days no power when the ignition is turned. Replaced starter - no change. Find it hard to believe the battery is bad because it doesn't happen every time.
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