I had the same problem with 1991 s10
blazer. check the oil pump pressure switch and current to the
switch. The computer will not allow the spark plugs to fire if the
oil pressure switch is not sending a signal to the computer that the
oil is flowing. My problem was a short in the wiring that was not
sending enough current to the oil pressure switch. I had to crank
the starter three or four times at 5 second intervals until the
current was suffient to operate the oil pressure switch.
The switch is a round cylinder device
located on th drives side of the engine near the oil filter.
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the physical world is complex.... (experience) and the engine type tops list here. not stated.
1: old plug is wrong type.
2: was cross threaded.
3: you forgot to gap the new tread
4: forgot to hand start all plugs not causing #2
5: spark wires are bad. (looking dont count, replace them at 60k)
that means if they look good, many are bad."insulation issues"
6: IF engine has COP coils buy new boots. they are cheap. Rockauto.com
7: if engine has distributor, not changing HV wires one by one , invites getting the firing order wrong. the 2.0L and 2.5L both have Distributor.
one engine had a ICM module huge coil pack over top of engine,
with COPS under this huge cover.
there are 5 or 6 engines. the 3.1L has this ICM setup.
so tell what engine, and more pitfalls.
the non COP engines (coil over plug) , do replace the HV wires.
for BEST FUTURE.
I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then. I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?
Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.
Did you mean coil the 1994 3.1 did not use a distributor , sounds like a bad coil pack and cylinders #3 and #6 do use the same coil. I would also check 3 and 6 plug wires this system is a waste spark design meaning when # 3 coil fires it is supposed to go through #3 plug wire , through #3 plug ( ground) through the engine block through the #6 plug then through the #6 wire then back to the coil, Then when #6 fires it works the opposite way, so in theory you could have one bad wire affecting 2 cylinders .....
Here are a few things you can try to debug the no spark issue. I hope these help you out.
1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turns you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain.
2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad.
3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.
When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced? They sell an "Engine starting fluid" that you spray directly into your air intake hose to aid in the occasional start-up problem. Have used it before, works very well.