Question about Chevrolet Camaro

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89 chevy camro 305 tbi car surges when running and stalls we have replaced egr valve sparkplugs distributor, coil ,rotor and cap fuelfilter there appears to be no vacum leaks

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  • popspunkin19 Jul 28, 2008

    thank you we have tried all of that and replaced fuel pump about six months ago

  • popspunkin19 Jul 28, 2008

    how would we check fuel pressure and we had a new egr valve on it would it have to be reset in computer

  • popspunkin19 Aug 04, 2008

    no after replacing every thing that has to do with the running of the car and 600.00 dollars later it turned out to be an 80.00 dollar part the computer so if your camro starts to surge and stall have you computer checked first it will save you alot of money

  • popspunkin19 Aug 04, 2008

    actually where i took it to get tested first they said it was the egr valve and when that didn't fix it i took it to the a dealer whose mechanics did a diagnostic and they said it was the distributor

  • popspunkin19 Aug 04, 2008

    no they we're going to charge us 750.00 to fix the distibutor and i found out where they we're going to get the distributor cost me 108.00 and dealership was jacking price up to 400.00 for the part can you imagine what it would have cost for them to fix it it cost us less doing the labor ourselves then paying them to do it

  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

    the car is running but is making a erratic noise. it doesn't stall I was told it could possibly be a vacuum leak where do I look

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With a Throttle Body Injection setup like you have and having replaced all the other possible causes You mentioned, It can only be one thing. The TBI itself! Never rejet these things or it will throw it out of whack with the ECM everytime. If you know someone at a salvage yard pick up a complete TBI setup and swap it out or buy a TBI Injection kit from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.

Cut and paste these links into the address bar on your internet browser.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/IntroShopping.do

Item No: 10902 $21.99

I've seen this problem a dozen times and it's no biggie to fix. There is a chance your ECM (Engine Control Module) is fouled up, but I doubt it. Pick one up at a salvage yard and swap it out if you still have a problem after you fix your throtle body.

If it is an automatic and you want to get a little more snot out of it think about A Hypertech Stage II Thermomaster chip to change the PCM settings from 305 fuel settings to 350 settings.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z5AASKE~P219.00~~~~~~~F

Part#304601 $219 Improved power and throttle response. Quick and easy installation. Street Runner Power Chips are designed for daily street driving on stock or slightly modified engines (high-flow air cleaner, cat back exhaust) with a stock thermostat. Thermo Master Power Chips include all the features of the Street Runner and it is programmed to allow the use of a 160 degree Powerstat. Cooler running engines can produce more horsepower. Both of the Power Chips are programmed to recalibrate fuel delivery and ignition timing to deliver maximum torque and horsepower for significantly improved acceleration and top-end speed without sacrificing reliability. An added benefit of any Power Chip is the re-programming of torque converter lock-up. Power Chip delays the lock-up until high gear which significantly improves driveability. Installation is easy and requires less than 30 minutes time. Just locate your car's computer (ECM), remove the cover, and plug in the new Power Chip. No discount (ND) on Hypertech Power Chips.

I don't know if you really want to do this mod with the price of gas these days but I thought I would throw it in as a little bonus.
Ps. If you go for the chip mod install a fan switch and run your fan continuosly when your hammering on it.
Have fun and keep the dirty side down...
George
Keep me posted and let me know which way you're going to go.
Any other questions feel free to ask. I'm more into NISMO Rockets but my bud John is a Camero head.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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If you are having fuel pressure-related problems, use these tests tonarrow down the problem.

  1. Check fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to thefuel rail service valve on the fuel rail or by installing a "T" fittingbetween the fuel supply line and the fuel rail.
  2. Turn the ignition key to "run" (engine off). The pressure shouldrise to about 34 psi to 38 psi for 1984-1985 N/A engines, 13.5 psi to15.5 psi for 1986 and up N/A engines, or 53 psi to 57 psi for turboengines. Try cycling the key once or twice if it is low. If you stillcan't get the pressure up this way, don't worry about it for now. Yourbattery or wiring may not be strong enough to power the pump withoutthe engine running.
  3. Watch the gauge. The pressure should hold. If the pressure drops quickly, there may be a leaking fuel injector a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a bad check valve on the fuel pump. If the pressure is high, the fuel pressure regulator is bad or the fuel return line is somehow blocked. Don't worry about low pressure at this point.
  4. Start the engine up. The fuel pressure regulator is designed tomaintain a constant pressure on the injectors, relative to the intakepressure (or vacuum). There will be a vacuum at idle and the pressurewill drop. If you have a vacuum gauge, you can verify this. For eachinHg of vacuum at the manifold, you should see a 0.49 psi drop in fuelpressure. So at 15 inHg of vacuum, you should see about 47.6 psi offuel pressure.
  5. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator. The pressure shouldrise back to its atmospheric level (about 36psi for 1984-1985 N/A,15psi for 1986 and up N/A or 55 psi for turbo). If the pressure islow, there may be a fuel flow problem due to a dirty fuel filter or a worn fuel pump. Be sure to connect the vacuum line back up!
  6. If the pressure measures OK, try reving the engine with the vacuumline hooked back up. The pressure should rise to match the changingmanifold pressure (a vacuum gauge or boost gauge for turbos ishelpful), keeping a constant pressure difference between the two.
  7. If the pressure is OK while parked, you will need to try drivingaround with the gauge attached. With a long enough hose, you can runthe hose through the back of the hood and clip the gauge to thewindshield with the windshield wiper. You will also need avacuum/boost gauge to compare the readings.
  8. If the fuel pressure drops off at higher engine speed or while driving, there may be a fuel flow problem or a bad regulator

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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Have you checked/replaced the o2 sensor? also check and clean the tps. How many miles are on the vehicle?
Thanks,
Lee

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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What about test the fuel pump for good pressure?
that is a good reason the car will do this '
also have you checked oxygen senser and air flow meter if your car has them?

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

  • chris07551 Jul 28, 2008

    and if its fiel injected there might be a faulty injector or blocked ,if its carby might need a tune

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There is a port on the fuel ine to check the pressure, it looks like a tire valve, it should have a plastic cap on it. Do you have a guage?

Posted on Jul 29, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Aug 04, 2008

    The computer is the last part to check, about 1% of the time it is the problem, that is based on thousands of repair jobs. It still may not have been your computer to start with, with all the work you did you may have caused a problem, the rule is do the testing first, don't throw new parts at a problem, that si always a mistake. The $600 you spent could have taken it to a dealer with the electronic test equipment to locate the failed part.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Aug 04, 2008

    Do you let them work on it at the dealer?? Sounds like a real cluster of repair related mistakes by everyone.

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