Check engine light is on, i was told it was an manifold idle actuator. it is just not running smoothly, at idle or in motion. had a tune up about 8 months ago. is this something i can do myself, or does it require a mechanic?
Take a can of carb spray spray it down behind the power steering pump at the front of the plastic intake if the idle picks up and smooths out pull the pump but you can leave the lines connected ,once that is done there is a plastic plug in the manifold which has a shaft and bushing behind it , the plug often pops out or leaks make sure the shaft bushing is there clean up the whole and the plug and jb weld the plug back in making sure not to get it into the shaft and bushing then jb the outside also check the manifold runners i jb welded all seams on mine since they tend to seperate or crack did this 2 years ago and has ran perfect sorry for the long post just wanted to be therogh hope helps.
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It can be a cracked coil, but if you do not get a check engine warning it would be something that is not monitored. I would try a can of SeaFoam at the proper concentration. Then change the fuel filter.
There is a part inside some intake manifolds which has a horizontal solenoid to regulate air for idle. It is called an idle control solenoid (motor). Sometimes a simply cleaning with WD40 can restore it.
check or replace pcv valve. check the hose also. remove and clean the idle air control with carb cleaner ( IAC ). they are usually located on or around the throttle body. check all hoses for a vacuum leak. good-day!
Hello, I suspect the problem can be one of three things. An idle speed control Solenoid or a leak in the Intake system or bad valve runner operation. First, disconnect the accelerator cable at the Throttle connection. I am reading that you have a rough idle at 1200RPM and then that the idle is fine.
The idle is too high if it is set at 1200. By disconnecting the accelerator cable, you will find out if the cable is binding at low rpm. If the engine now idles slower with the cable off, you have found part of the problem.
The ISC, idle speed control, usually fits in a shallow well in the Intake, has a valve which routes extra air into the engine to smooth the idle. The valve shaft can be cleaned with WD40 and you can degum the passageway. Too much air at the wrong time can increase RPM and give the other controls fits trying to compensate, resulting in sputter.
A leaking intake manifold or manifold gasket can create the problems you describe. Use a hand spray bottle of water and mist the seams while the engine is running. A leak will draw in the water and change the RPM. Then fix the leak. Some 6 cylinder manifolds have 2 piece sandwich designs and the gaskets usually fail over time.
If you have the type of engine with intake runners, there are activating Pods which move rods underneath the Pods. Some have plastic clips which break and the rods fail to work after that.
Since the Electronics work, you will not get a check light. This defect sounds a lot like your problem because the Intake has certain flow designs to regulate power at different RPMs'. You are having problems only within a certain RPM range.
I hope my solution gives you new ideas on inspecting your engine for the problem.
have the vehicle scanned for error codes at autozone, its free. Post codes for more help....These engines have issues with the COPs (ignition coils-over-plugs) failing prior to 80k miles. When they fail typical problems are: Sputtering under load/acceleration, rough idle, random misfires, random stalling, light or heavy jerking under load (usually at 15-35mph and 45-65mph)..hopefully this helps!!
buy a can of carb cleaner with the little red nossle
start the truck and take the can of carb cleaner and spray small amounts around the intake don't forget to also do the vaccum lines if you have a leak the engine will rev up ( thoes trucks with the 4.0 was good for doing that
rough-idling engine can signal a number of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve problems, such as a clogged valve or a plugged hose. But before beginning the functional checks, double check the PCV valve part number to make certain the correct valve is installed. If the correct valve is being used, continue by disconnecting the PCV valve from the valve cover, intake manifold, or hose. Start the engine and let it run at idle. If the PCV valve is not clogged, a hissing is heard as air passes through the valve. Place a finger over the end of the valve to check for vacuum.
With the engine at idle, vacuum should be felt at the PCV valve.