Question about 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
I'm doing this myself, and there are some annoyances. Yes, a service manual is good, however, I consulted 2 manuals and got two different answers. Here is the real deal for the 1996 2.2 vin 4 cavalier.
Remove the right tire and platic sheilds. Remove the tensioner pully, (2 bolts).
Remove the harmonic balencer on the crank shaft, 3 bolts first then the center.
Use a pull hammer with correct thread to pull off the "crankshaft thing" on the end of the crank shaft. Be sure to pull it off evenly. I had to find a bolt with the same threads, cut that off, and tap a fitting for my **** hammer. It's on there good.
Remove 7 (8mm) bolts from around the chain cover. Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts from under the cover. Those two studs also have to come out with a small inner tourqe socket. These are very very easy to strip, be careful. The cover is now free.
It is sealed on tight. There are a couple good places to get a bite on the rear facing edge. You will also have to work from the top and bottom to get it free. It pulls strait out, it is positioned by pins. Be patient, that cover will break.
There is silicon that seals the bottom of the cover. Clean that all off with a scraper and wire brush. Pull off and clean where the gasket seats all around the cover. Clean the cover. Replace the gasket and the outer oil seal that goes around the crank shaft. The only way to get that seal out is to break it. Press the new one in with a vice, do it evenly and slowly.
I've found a good method to get the cam shaft sproket off.... There are 3 slots and a hole. Rotate the cam sproket clockwise till you get the hole to about 9o'clock. Put drill bit or short piece of hard metal (something that won't bend) in that hole and apply some pressure while you rotate another 10 degrees or so. The bit will drop into a hole. Now rotate counter-clockwise and the bit will bind the sproket so you can remove the bolt. Nice huh? I get it unbound by putting a screwdriver between teeth and prying against the crank shaft. Use your imagination.
The timing **** is retarded. And I still havn't found a deffinate answer for everything. The crank shaft makes two rotations for every one that the cam makes. The first crank shaft rotation is the compression stroke, the second is the power stroke. I don't know how to tell the difference.
To get the sprokets aligned, re-install the cam sproket, don't worry about getting it tight. Rotate it clockwise until the hole in the sproket lines up with the ear on the chain tensioner. Now, bind the gear right in that spot and remove it. Now, take that "crankshaft thingy" and push it on by hand as far as you can. Notice the key, and dot on one of teeth. Put the bolts partially in the thingy and rotate it by using a bar or screwdriver between the bolts. Move that sproket until the dot on the tooth lines up with the ear on the chain adjustor. The key will point directly up. Good job. Tap that thingy off the shaft now.
Compress the chain adjustor and put a pin through it. With the cam sproket removed, put the chain on it. Work the chain onto the crankshaft sproket. Slide the cam sproket onto the camshaft. Easier said than done, but it is possible. If you are having a hell of time, use a mirror and check that you are lining it up properly with the pin/key in the crankshaft. I found that leaving a little slack at the top, as opposed to the bottom helps. FYI, when i say little, i mean it. There is very very little slack, but the chain does buckle slightly.
Remember me saying that I have no idea how to tell between power and compression stroke. Now you will hate me. To get mine right, I had to tighten the cam sproket then replace my spark plugs and attempt to start to start the car. I guessed mine right the first time and it ran fine. However, if it ran rough or not at all. I would have had to remove the cam sproket again, remove the chain and rotate the crankshaft sproket one full turn.
When you put this all back together, use plenty of slicon on the bottom of the chain cover. Re-assembly is a snap, or at least is was for me.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
When i need to change the timing chain in a cavalier 1998
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
There is not enough space here to give the procedure, you will need to buy a service manual.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi this should be a 2.4 engine correct take it from me i'm a GM tech this is not a do it yourself job
1 tooth out can cause damage
sorry about the bad news
Posted on May 04, 2009
2.2L VIN 4
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Just the guide is probably making the noise. So either a new guide or a new chain. I would start with guide first, unless chain looks loose or cruddy
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
SOURCE: timing chain replacement
Go to your local Library and you can probably get great help there if your gonna do this ur self and if u don't want to spend money on a manual for ur car and even that might not have what u need.
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
SOURCE: timing chain replacement
Easy. Nissan almost always ran on timing chains esp the trucks. You will not have to worry abt changing the timing chain ( if ever ) to usually at least 250,000 or 300,000. I seldomly have heard on anyone changing them though.
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
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