Hi, I am not an expert, but I think my "mobile mechanic" is trying to stiff me... The water pump went down on my 1999 Toyota Camry (4 Cyl). My mechanic told me that the pump, the belt and the tensions had to be replaced. After replacing all, however, he came up with another story. He said that he could not set the crank into a proper position because there is most likely a bent valve bothering to make a complete 360 degrees revolution. He said that it would go 359 degrees only and won't go any further... He proposes to remove the head and rebuilt it completely (for a lot of extra money, of course). I have read online that my engine is non-interference type of engine, and even if the belt got torn or skipped the timing because of broken water pump, it will not bend or break any of the pistons of valves. What is the problem when? Is he lying to me, or he cannot turn it for sure and there could be something in fact bothering to turn the crankshaft? Thanks, Alex
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Re: Crank won't turn 360 degrees into TDC position.
It is very possiable he make a mistake installing the belt and is trying to get you to pay him to repair his fuc.. up, don't fall for it, ask him why there wasn't an issue before he worked on it?? I am not sure about weahter that engine is free wheeling, I know earlier models were not, my own personnel expeariance on friends 4 cyl Camry
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If there is zero tolerance between valves and pistons ( how did you measure it. (Head has to be on to get a reading) then I would say that there has been valve clash with the piston and the valves are bent. If that is the case then you will be able to turn the crank 360 degrees with little resistance.
Have you checked for a broken timing chain, that would be the next step. Make sure number one cylinder is up on compression stroke when the timing mark is on 0 degrees BTDC on the crank pulley. Pull the plug and feel the pressure as it nears TDC.
Yeah, likely that raised line is your starting point. #1. Try lining up your crankshaft pointer(turn with a socket wrench on crank pulley) to 0 degrees. If you are on compression stroke on cyl. 1, your rotor will be pointing to no. 1 plug tower. If you are on exhaust stroke of no. 1 cyl., then your rotor will be exactly 180 degrees off. If you are confused, just turn your crank clockwise one turn (360), and line up zero again. Now your rotor will be (again) either pointing to No.1 position, or 180 degrees off (pointing in opposite direction)One of those positions should line up with that manuf. mark. (Here is easiest way to find TDC of #1 cyl. on compression stroke: pull #1 plug out. Hold finger or thumb over hole, while turning crank, when you feel pressure building on cyl, you are approaching TDC of compression stroke. Just turn crank (clockwise) till pointer is on zero. Done!) Now your rotor will definitely be pointing to #1 plug on your dist. cap.
its only a opel astra engine and easy to do but you must have the right tools ,their is a special for locking the cam gears in position and another for the crank ,but just the cam gear locking tool is good enough ,i think your engine is just a 8 valve so its only one cam .bring engine around to tdc no1 ,then slacken bolts on the water pump 3 bolts and turn the water pump to slacken the cam belt .bit of white paint to mark gears .make sure you turn engine 360? with a socket and rachet to make sure valves clear before you try starting it though .
Code P1361 = Intermittent Interruption In TDC 1 Sensor Circuit
Turns out Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor was bad. Yours is too.
sensor in located behind the timing chain cover on my 2001 civic. You
have to take the cover off to get to it. Honda dealer wanted $360 in
labor to change the sensor. Because it was in the same the location
Honda would have changed my timing chain for no extra labor charge. So I
went to the Honda dealer and got the sensor ($56) and went to the auto
parts store and got a timing chain, water pump, and new belts. Local
mechanic changed all these parts for $160 in labor (others wanted $230).
$130 for the sensor and timing chain and $30 more for the pump. I
probably could have hacked that timing chain cover off myself but that
is what thought would happen. A hack job. And it was time for a new
chain anyway. 92 plus degrees outside and the civic is running fine.
Pull the spark plug from #1 cylinder. Cut a piece of
straight coat hanger wire about 8" long,(enough so it can't fall into the cyl.)insert the wire into the cylinder.
Have a helper turn the crank until the piston is at the
top of it's stroke.(using the wire to gauge the pistons position) remove dist. cap and turn the camshaft until
the roter is set to fire #1 cylinder. Now check your
timing gear marks, if they line up, your at TDC if not
bring the crank around again. You can do the piston
roter position test before you tear it down again.
this will give you an idea of where your at on the mechanical end of this. But first hook up an obdII
and see if the cam and crank sensors show codes.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
timing belt marks are as follows= crank at TDC marks are at 10 oclock the both cams marks at TDC are at 12 .oclock position marks are clear if you look theoil pump gear also driven by belt marks are approx 11 oclock position also marked thebalance shaft gear/cog must also be set to 9 oclock position when the b/shaft belt is fitted to hold theoil pump sprocket in its correct position remove the small screw/blank plug on side of block then use an 8 mm posi screwdriver insert into hole it should travel approx 60 mm to engage if not rotate pump gear 360 degree till it does locate fit main belt from crank anti clockwise to cams then tension same with b/shaft tensioner make sure you torque all bolts correctly any more info req'd come back hope this helps ?
take the timing belt off reset the crank at 0 with # 1 piston at TDC ensure that both cams are up at twelve 'oclock with belt on, when the tension is released and the tensioner is tightened turn the crank atleast 360 degrees and ensure that the timing does not shift before starting engine